**RB2530**

Only thing I would add is make sure there is no stress in the hose bends. ie dont try and get 45deg out of your 90deg bend etc etc. Also make sure there is no twist in the hose or bends. ie set up all of your pipe work with loose clamps then tighten the clamps when everything is in place. This is all common sense but common sense is not as common as you would think. make sense.

Just wondering how you got a start at a mine site without a licence???????????What do you do as a miner?? I had sympathy for you until i read you dont have a licence and are proud of it...I still have some sympathy do in a way, but knowing that you dont have car atm makes me feel a bit better because its one less ignorrant unlicenced driver off the road which is a good thing...

Check all of your fuses...You may have blown one...

IMO fixing the toe in will fix 80% of the problem. 5mm + 2mm gives 7mm total toe which is huge especially for 35 series tyres with much lower side wall flex... I run 1mm total toe..0.5mm each side on the rear.

Thats really interesting. Just confirm that the knock sensor is not connect to the ECU when you are measuring this voltage... 2.4V is the RMS voltage of 3.4V AC...In the manual do they refer to frequency at all?

Very interesting...When I did my mod, I had Consult connected and experimented with different resistor networks until the fault code dissappeared... there would definately be a way of tricking it...how many wires go to the R34 sensor? There must be at least 2 or 3 if it is active as you say...a ground -ve, supply +ve and a signal.... There would be a specific voltage range across the sensor for baseline engine noise under "No-knock" condition. If you know what this voltage is, you could use a zenner diode to clamp the voltage under the Knock voltage...Then as far as the ECU is concerned it would still see normal engine noise signals, but never a knock signal... Disclaimer: Disabling knock sensors is playing with fire if you dont know what you are doing!!! Sorry just had to put this out there again as i dont want to be blamed for rooting anyones engine...

The knock sensors would be passive sensors on all models, R32s R33s R34 R35 ...The ECU would be measuring voltage drop across the sensor due to the fact that it has a current passing through it...This is most likely how all car manufacturers do it... This is the best way to do it because it is less prone to signal noise and interference from other things happening in the engine bay...ignition system etc

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...;hl=rich+retard

I have researched this and done the mod using a resistor. It works......Basically the ECU provides a constant current across the knock sensor. As the resistance of the knock sensor changes, the voltage drop across it changes....V=I x R gents...If you search my profile I have done a thread on it.. cheers

++1 for the above PLUS not having to lean over as far when you change spark plugs...engine 40mm taller . Better for your back!!

Cory, Factory plenums modified to front facing...do they work? BUT read on I have had this debate with many internet scientists on these forums...IMO The front facing plenums will work but simply do not work as well as ones such as the Greddy one... It all depens on what you classify as working. If you classify working as supplying air to each cylinder with enough consistency between cylinders so as not to blow up the engine through lean out, they do work. If you want to achieve the best possible distribution of air between cyclinders to maximise performance, they don't work... For front facing plenums I would only use the Greddy style plenum or similar with the taper. There is a reason they are tapered the way they are...plus it is no coincidence that this shape also happens to be the same as the RB26 plenum...It has been designed for even flow at resonably high fluid velocites cheers

Mate you were in the city!! How many pedestrians were around when you did it?? There is a time and a place for having fun...and yes you are copping it good..hope you learn from this...

No sympathy from me dude...Driving like that in the city. Bald tyres..What were thinking???....Katching!!! Reputation of Skyline owners just dropped another level... Its guys like you that make it worse for guys like me who now 'where' and 'where not' to have fun...

Dude, Did you recover all of the debris..well whatever was on the road anyway...Can't see the pressure plate itself in the pictures...I assume it is now in 50,000 peices.. It looks to me (from the existing pictures anyway) as if the pressure plate itself has failed first, then ejected peices of itself out through the clutch cover and then through the bell housing...If you have a look at the bolt holes in the clutch cover that are slightly elongated radially outwards indicating that a very high load has been placed on these bolts...The clutch cover also looks pretty much intact apart from the deformation.. The steel straps that normally support the pressure plate have also copped a hiding consistent with bits of pressure plate stilll connected to them travelling outwards with great force... Also if you post up some pictures of the flywheel showing each of the bolt stubbs still in the flywheel, I can tell you if any of the bolts show signs of fatigue or if they all failed due to overload...

I came up with this really cool idea of using air pressure from one of your tyres via a tyre valve fitting and hose to a brake fluid special reservoir cap without a breather hole...then you just fill up the reservoir with brake fluid, apply the air pressure to the special cap and open each caliper bleeder. The air pushes the fluid through the system and you dont need to pump the pedal. Some older VW beetles used this idea to power windscreen washers...they used the spare tyre as an air pressure source... You could use a compressor instead of tyre pressure if you are game but I reckon the brake fluid reserviour would only be good for 50psi tops..so if your regulator fails, broken reserviour and brake fluid everywhere..Using tyre pressure is awesome cos it is inherently regulated and cannot exceed tyre pressure... Why am I disclosing this and not calling the patent office?....some other dude thought of it a couple of years ago and put a patent on it......shit!! I am gonna make one anyways...

Mate, Z32 afm should never be used with stock ECU without intercepting and correcting for the difference in scaling factor ie volts/unit of airflow...Both RB25 and Z32 afm have the same output voltage range of 0 to 6V but the Z32 measures 30-50% more air...(cant remember the exact difference but I am sure some else will). So this would be the reason your AFRs are very lean...The ECU would be thinking the engine is getting 30-50% (whatever the number is) less air than what it really is...all over the rev range... If you've been driving the car hard or a lot I would get a compression and leakdown test done...You may have burnt valves or damaged ring lans. Dont want to alarm you but this is serious and you should check it out before you do more damage. Currently your block doesn't have any holes in it.... As far as missing nuts or studs on exhaust manifold is concerned I would fix this as soon as you can too...Missing nuts or studs can put alot of extra stress on the remaining studs..It can also cause nasty stresses in the exhaust manifold itself and also the cylinder head...

If it falls off, engine will run a little bit lean off boost and a little bit rich on boost... Btw negative vacuum is actually positive pressure in a literal sense..but I knew what you meant... PS...You can always get away with using T-pieces that are one size too big by putting the end of the tubing in very hot water to soften the tubing before you push it onto the fitting...(this is probably the most useful part of my post actually....)

There is actually several accounts of failed oil pressure sensors on these Forums...Mainly they lose their calibration over time..I class this as a failure...The sensor is failing to give an accurate enough indication of oil pressure...That is a failure...Trouble is this failure is a "hidden failure" and sometimes never detected...Reliability Engineering 101 here... The factory gauges are also highly damped so they are slow to react to transients in pressure... But I do agree with you regarding second gauge..For any highly critical parameter such as oil pressure, two independant sensors is best. Nissan kind of do this by having a oil warning light, plus an oil pressure gauge...Only trouble is both indicators use the same sender...

Dude, I think the most common cause of low oil pressure is worn main bearings in the engine...The bigger the bearing clearance, the easier the oil can flow through them and therefore lowers the back pressure on the pump.. It is rare that low oil pressure it is due to a dodgy oil pump...Pumps do fail but I think they often fail completely...more commonly low oil pressure is caused by something else... BUT your oil pressures are fine by the sound of it...Also remember that oil pressure will change with different oil viscosities..If you change oil weight your oil pressures will definately change... One more thing...it is well known that the Nissan oil pressure sensors can get a bit dodgy...I had one in a 98 model GTSt fail...I was worried about low oil pressure...I put an aftermarket mechanical gauge and found the oil pressure was above specification...

+++1 for the RB25/30...This combination has been tried and tested many times...Extra torque all over the rpm range...Best bang for your buck by a mile...

Yes thank you!!!.. Its my birthday...I am 26 again!!! I dont want presents!! Instead I want you all to go to Texi!!! Make my birthday a special day....Sign up for TEXI!!

Yep, understand....

I would of thought understanding why people aren't going would be handy for future reference...guess not....

Hope i am not in the class of members that acted keen then pulled out... I am still keen, very keen in fact, but pulled out because of the screamer pipe issue...Just didn't want to be the guy who instigated SAU or Sutton rd complex receiving bad press due to noise... Anyway hope you get the numbers...

Who defected that?? Thats crazy because to fix that by pulling it back out you are possibly weakening that member even more!!!