**RB2530**

In theory if it is new turbo or one that has been rebuilt you should try and get some oil into the bearings before you kick the engine over...this is because it takes a small amount of time for the oil to get to the core on first start up...another way is hold the compressor wheel still for a few seconds on the first start up....the main aim is to stop the turbo from spinning dry..even if it is only for a few seconds...in reality I am not sure if many people do this and the implication of not doing this is very often indeterminate...ie the damage done is very small and may reduce the bearing life by fractions of a percent...

I believe you should take it to court....You should claim that it was a christmas decoration instead.. Tell the magistrate you are sick of people not respecting christmas and you were just trying to instill some christmas cheer into todays modern depressed society... open and shut case i reckon....

oops sorry dude, I am actually pro-neon...

I was thinking about getting some neons but not anymore...Looks like the police and RTA have woken up to the extreme gains that neons can give...I didn't think it would take long.. I was gonna get green ones for the 48% extra rear wheel horsepower, light grey ones for the handling (halve your lap time on any circuit) and some bright blue ones so I can run my car on E10 without it pinging (do my bit for the energy crisis)...Was also gonna get some super extreme white ones and hook them up to my flux capacitor and fire it up every time I went past a speed camera so all they see is white flash...(donate my savings in fines to neon research) I also heard that the neonium fluid that the neons give out reduce the air density in the front of the car and this can take 3 seconds off your 1/4 mile ET...can anyone else confirm this?? I reckon more like 2.8 seconds...

LOL at some of the other causes listed....

Hang on a minute guys...he is talking about a line from the waste gate that has no where to go!!! The only line I can think of on the stock waste gate which just happens to be a VERY VERY IMPORTANT one...It is the actuator feedback line!! Dood it sounds like you are hitting airflow cut because your waste gate is just not functioning at all because it is getting zero boost feedback. This is bad!! It is NOT a tuning issue, it is a functionality issue. Dont drive your car like this (off boost is ok only if you have too). On boost you have a fair chance stuffing your turbo because atm the boost is not controlled... You need to plumb that line back into anywhere between you compressor outlet and your throttle body...doesn't really matter where.

Yep, the plan was to use the MOSFETs (only 1 per channel btw) to pull down the coil to ground. I was going to use MOSFETs with a very low 'ON' resistance but pull the gate down with a 100kOhm resistance so it didn't float between charges. Thats a good idea about using an inverting buffer, although the higher the dV/dt, the shorter the spark duration. Obviously the peak secondary voltage is higher...Spark duration should also be considered. As far as the dwell is concerned I measured the stock ECU dwell and it is about 2ms at idle and doesn't seem to change much with rpm. My CRO is pretty old though and not very stable so it is hard to tell but yeah, it makes sense that it is short due to the size of the nissan coils.. I actually have a data sheet for a Bosch motorsport 3x2 coilpack and at 14V with a 2ms dwell (charged to 5 amps) you get 34mJ of energy. This is about the same as a Splitfire (I think? I read it somewhere). BUT in wasted spark you are firing 2 plugs at once. I think the plug in the exhausting cyclinder will fire much easier than the charged cylinder because the exhaust gas will be dry etc etc. so the you will not get 34mJ at the plug you want. BUT if the volatge input of the coil is increased to 20V at 2ms dwell(charged to 8 amps) the output energy of the coil is 68mJ. At 24V at 2ms (charged to 10A) the output is 86mJ. So the inverter DC-DC inverter is a good idea although 24V at 10A (240W) is a big ask...Although it could set up such that it runs in 24V mode at higher engine loads only so most of the time you are running in 12V mode, so the duty cycle on the inverter is low...unless you are doing circuit stuff...I also had the idea of using a second battery (smaller like a 7.2Ah gel cell) that changed from parrallel to series depending on engine load...Once again the duty cycle will dictate how practical this is...

Hey all, On the subject of wasted spark ignition I am thinking about making my own ignitor (I have an R33 S2 with inbuilt ignitors)... I was gonna use 3 N-ch power MOSFETs as the power stage..Each of the 6 ECU ignition inputs would be coupled with small signal diodes... Has anyone done this before????

In this country the water marks are actually caused by calcuim and other minerals and metals in the water. They are generally not solvent in much at all so the only way to get rid of the water marks is to mechanically removed them...ie polishing... Pure water doesn't leave any marks btw. Acid rain is caused by sulfur and other elements in the air combining with the rain water as it falls. Our atmosphere is generally very good and clean compared to other countries so acid rain is not a big problem here. The big issue with acid rain is that the acids chemically attack the glass and erode it...If this happens the surface finish of the glass is affected...you need to do a shit load of polishing to fix it...Glass has a very high hardness (but it is brittle though) and for anything to be a polish, it must be harder than what you are polishing. So most polishes take a fair bit of work to make a difference on glass. Many dont work at all..Thats life!!

A window tinter told me one day (I have tried and it works well) that to make your windows look darker, you polish the glass to make it more reflective. It works too!! I am certain this would also remove the water marks as well... The way you do this is to buy some cheap toothpaste and some 000 or 0000 steelwool from Bunnings. NB it must be be fine steelwool with out the soap...thats what the 000 and 0000 means. the more zero's the finner it is and the better.. You wet the glass down and put some toothpaste on a wad of steel wool and polish the glass with it...Do a small area at a time...It takes off all the oxidation and other crap on the glass...its messy but works well..you can see the difference...Oh yeah, don't do this to the inside of the window unless you dont like your current window tint...

I get up to 800 deg C using a 1.6mm K-type thermocouple mounted in the exhaust manifold... One thing you need to remember is that the thermocouple indicate the temperature of itself at the junction, and not the gas surrounding it. So the indicated temperature will be slightly lower than what the actual temperature is... How big the difference is will depend on the size of the probe and rate of increase of the exhaust gas temp...The smaller the probe the better from a measurement point of view, but vice versa in reliability sense.. Also most thermocouple readers are digital and update at different speeds..If you get a temperature peak between in between updates you may miss the actual peak reading... IMO Due to all the variables involved EGTs are best served as a warning that something has changed (ie sudden change in EGTs) rather than an overall indication of whether your tune is perfect or not...

Hey all, I am chasing an R32 GTSt or R32 GTR ignitor module....Am also after the plug as well if you have one?? cheers

At last a thread that Newcastle and the CC can call it's own.... Spotted last night on the George Booth drive handling test track - black R33 GTST with silver rims

Went to Jaycar and ended up buying the book with all of the Silicon Chip kits in it...looks like an awesome read.....thanks anyway

Yep thanks for the replies... I meant guess as far as bench top calibration of the controller itself...Not guess wrt to tuning on the car... There a 3 multiturn and 1 single turn trimpots that basically calibrate the unit and set the ranges etc. I will try Jaycar tonight or on the weekend..If I have no luck I will take you up on your offer... cheers

Hey all, I have built the digital fuel adjuster kit but have lost the instructions. The kit works fine but I need to adjust the trim pots and I am just guessing with the instructions. Does anyone have an electronic copy of the instructions they can pm me... Or is there anyone in newy with the instructions that I borrow for a day to make a copy?

You can do a few things... 1. Drop the boost...My guess is you would not need to drop it that much...This is the safest option and you may not lose that much power... 2. Adjust your afm voltage correction (SAFC) to get underneath the airflow cut. Start at 4000rpm and work up from there...BUT do not do this unless you are checking either AFRs or EGTs at the same time. I would advise you to get a tuner to do this... 3. Change the ECU...Unfortunately you have hit the brick wall in the standard ECU...there is not much you can do...Nissan have put these limitations in the ECU to keep their warranty claims department quiet...All car manufacturers do this.. At this point in time I am going to say start searching the forum because from now on for every answer we give you, you will have two more questions...you will find the answers and learn a lot at the same time.. best of luck...

Yep that is true...I was referring more to the accuracy of the afm with respect to temperature...ie it's output is x volts per unit mass of air flowing through it...in theory the afm is temperature compensated because it relies on transfer of heat put into the air by the heater element to the receiving element. It could be that as the air temp into the afm increases, it over-estimates the velocity of the air....not by much mind you, and probably not enough to make any real difference to the engine tune overall, but enough to trigger air flow cut if you are already so close it...Also the electronics of the afm are analogue right up to the ECU and would also be effected by temperature...once again not by much but maybe just enough to trigger air flow cut...

What has probably happened is that you had the SAFC tuned such that it was lowering the afm voltage at 4000rpm 'just enough' to get under the 'airflow cut' threshold....(IMO the airflow cut doesn't act until engine rpm reaches 4000rpm. If air flow voltage exceeds the 'airflow cut' threshold at 4000 rpm, ignition is cut straight away...the threshold increase with engine rpm up to about 5500rpm). The afm is temperature compensated but only inherently so it is not perfectly independant of temp. You would have had the SAFC tuned to get the afm voltage under the 'airflow cut' threshold a couple of months ago when the weather was cooler. Now that the weather is warmer, air density and humidity are different, it may be that you are hitting the 'airflow cut threshold' again. You may have been only missing the airflow cut threshold by a few mV before. Plus the overall efficiency of your engine will change with temp as well... BTW this is not R&R. IMO R&R is triggered by excessive knock...it doesn't cause engine to cut completely.. Anyway I would say get your SAFC retuned to suit warmer weather or lower your boost just a touch...

Just out of curiosity does it cut out at exactly /or very close to 4000rpm??

The exhaust upgrade will give just enough extra power to make up for the extra weight of the body kit...True story!!!

I think you should get some legal advice.... Just because you are in the wrong doesn't give some else the right to hit you...for instance...if your are parked in a no stopping lane it does not give someone the right to rear end you...Every driver is oblidged to avoid collision where possible...I think the law changes when vehicles are stationary as well...The truck driver has admitted he did not see you...this is an admission that he was not taking care and paying enough attention to what was in front of him. He can't say that you didn't stop because he did not see you...Do you have any witnesses that will vouch that you were stationary when he hit you? Once again get some advice...

So no-one from Newy is going???

What colour car are you running? Will keep an eye out for you....

Just curious if anyone is going??? I will be there just spectating...weather is not looking good though