**RB2530**

Great for those who get it....Unfortunately I worked so hard I didn't deserve it....

Adjust both your rear wheels with lock to the left as much as you can ....This will reduce turning circle to the right but increase it to the left. It will be awesome for U-turns though which solves your dilema!!..(If you're in the US though make sure you adjust your rears with lock to the right though...) I really am a solutions man....

Ok so what you are saying is that the GTR bov is a 'bolt on' to the stock GTSt intake pipe work?? In that case it is a good option 'if' you are running the stock pipe work... When I was running the stock intake pipe work I gutted the stock GTSt bov and used it as an adpator only. I then plumbed the Bosch bov in place of the rubber hose bend that joins to the black metal pipe that goes to the turbo intake pipe...This made a noticable difference because the Bosch BOV sealing mechanism is rubber on a hard plastic seat as opposed to the stock aluminium to aluminiuim (complete with the Nissan 1mm breather hole designed to make the GTSt drive a bit more smoothly so it appealed to the over 45yos as well ) ..I am assuming the GTR BOV is rubber on aluminium seat for it to seal better than the GTSt one...?

The Bosch ones are also 'held open' at idle so there is no idle issues...They also have hose tails on the inlet and outlet so there is no rooting around with welding flanges etc... Sure I can spend time and chasing a GTR bov...I believe the quote in the previous post was 'rare as hens teeth though'..If I find one (which I will eventually) it 'may' be rooted...so the process starts again...I have never bothered chasing one up so I could be wrong...This just comes from 20yrs exp playing with cars... OR I can pick up the phone and call my local Saab dealer and buy something brand new off the shelf that 'will work and work well' for a decent period...3 years my current BOV has been in service...No problems at all... Now I am not saying that the GTR bovs are not the way to go...What I AM saying is that the Bosch ones are a decent option and will alway be easy to get...Its what I use and I have had great success... Just trying to give the guy options thats all...

The most cost effective BOV is the Bosch one used by Porcshe, Audi, Saab and now Ford in the F6...$70-$90 new...They won't win you any prizes at Autosalon (who gives a shit) but if you are after an effective 'compressor bypass valve' good for 15-20 psi that doesn't cost hundreds they are awesome... Btw Zoom did a review on a few BOVs years ago and these came up trumps....

They will indentify the car by reading the rego label details....very very easy....unless rego label is not there due to smashed window...If window smashed, car can be unlocked, bonnet popped and vin plate read...If vin plate is not there engine number can be read..if engine is not there, check that car is still there...If no car or engine exists it may not be stolen because for a car to be stolen it first must exist....ddeeeeppppp

Even a 'low' (as opposed to zero) refrigerant gas pressure will cause the compressor to shutdown. Over time the system loses gas and as soon as the pressure drop below a threshold the a/c will not start. The is a feature designed to protect the compressor as the gas also contains oil that lubes the compressor.. So it may be as simple as a re-gas...If you know what you are doing bridge the pressure switch and see if the compressor starts...This will confirm if it is something else such as the clutch etc...If you dont know what you are doing take it to an a/c place...

Changing the orientation so that the air travels along it fixes one shortcoming but creates another...What would happens is the air at ambient temperature would hit the front end of it and as it travels along the fins, the air would be heated...This happens in all coolers...the air traveling out is warmer than the air traveling in...this must happen for the cooler to be cooling...but as the air heats up less and less heat is transferred into it so it becomes less effective at removing heat.. Also the relatively small projected cross sectional area of the cooler that would be exposed to the airflow would be very limiting...If you consider the cooler functioning as follows it will become obvious... The road speed air at ambient temperature flows over the cooler that is heated by the oil..heat is absorbed by the air as it is drawn out of the oil...Now if you consider the setup in 2D, and that the road speed air has the capacity to absorb only a certain amount of heat...It follows that as the projected area of the cooler increases, the ability of the cooler absorb heat increases directly proportional to its area...Eg If the diameter of this round cooler was say 50mm and it was compared to a standard cooler that was 100x100mm, the 100x100 would cool at least 4-5 times more...(yep couldn't be bothered working area of 50mm dia but you know what I mean).. So this means that with coolers the projected area of the cooler is more important than the cooler depth. ..So no matter which way you orientate this cooler it wont work better than a conventional one because its projected area to the airflow is small... hope this makes sense...

My feeling is that these would not work very well at all when compared to more traditional oil coolers..These are the reasons why... 1. Although the oil is able to penetrate the cooling fins the main flow of oil would be through the core of the cooler as this is the path of least resistance. The oil penetrating the fins would stagnate in the fins as there is nothing to cause this oil to flow. So you would end up with most of the oil flowing through the centre of this thing and the cooled oil would remain in the fins.(just as if it was just a length of hose)..Oil has a much lower thermal conductivity than aluminium and therefore you could argue that the fins would be better off if they were solid. 2. The most efficient heat exchangers maximise the ratio of contact surface area vs fluid volume of the hot and the cool fluids..In this case the fluids are oil and air...The most inefficient cross section for doing this is circular...The most efficient is squat rectangular sections that are wide and short. This give the most surface contact between the two fluids. Just like traditional oil coolers... 3. Also for an air type cooler to be effective, free flowing air must flow over a large area to maximise the heat removed. With this design if you had air flowing at 90 degrees to the cooler, the fins themselves would trap air between them which once again would stagnate. At the back of the cooler (the side not facing the airflow) you would also get a low get a low pressure region. This would reduce the heat tranfer from the fins to the air. So IMO these are worth every cent you pay for them...which is not much by the looks of it...They would be slightly better than no cooler at all but not worth the effort to fit one...

Guys at no point in time has anyone mentioned comp ratio. What are you running in your RB30? This makes huge difference in NA engines...RB engines respond very well to ignition advance and therefore in the NA version, would also respond to high comp ratios...I am not an NA guru but there are many on the forums...Maybe do some searching and find out what will work well with your build...(before you bolt the head on that is....) Nor have you mentioned area under the torque curve...Looking at peak power figures is close to meaningless when comparing how quick a car will be... anyway my 2c worth...

All I need is the pump... tank, nozzle, controller etc I am doing myself....

Ok not having a lot of luck here... Does anyone know who sells these pump separately??....I have tried boostcooling.com.au who supply Snow Perfromance gear but the phone number is disconnected...Cant seem to find any other Aussie distributor of Snow Performance...

Just wondering if any one has a Shurflo pump or similar low volume high pressure pump that they want to get rid of...I dont really need anything else although if you have a kit at the right price I will consider...

That would work but the trouble with copper is it is a good conductor of heat (thats why they use it bases of saucepans etc)...One of the worst conductors of heat is stainless steel. So using the principle of the coil would work better with stainless tube...Or instead of the coil you could run the tube through a heat sink...I am thinking for more of a permanent installation..Another problem to overcome is if you mount the sensor or WT tank on the fire wall you will always have flexing in the coiled tube which would cause fatigue... Anyway I am straying away from using EG pressure as an energy source to pump the water...Not because I dont think it is a good idea but because there would be lot of trial and error in getting it to work right. And there appears to be a huge variance in the ratios between EGP and Inlet pressures...So for some setups it would work well and some wouldn't work at all... I am considering the following two options. 1. Using a pump such as the Shurflo but setting it up in a return to tank set up.ie the pump outlet goes to a T-peice and then returns to tank. Off the T you have the nozzle or nozzles. After the T you have a device** that acts like a rising rate pressure regulator. This is feed by a pressure signal from the plenum...So as boost increases there is more pressure fed to the nozzle...**Dont know what this be yet..It may be a custom job or it may be an off the shelf pneumatic item... 2. Not using a pump at all...Using a pressure multiplier..This is a setup similar to a brake booster and master cylinder..You have a large diameter piston connected to a small diameter piston..The larger piston is fed by boost pressure. The smaller piston pumps the water into the plenum...The big problem with this setup is that it is obviously not continuous.. The amount of water delivered in any one cycle will be the volume of the small cylinder..The system will reset on gear changes or when throttle is backed off. Vacuum will draw the large cylinder back also pulling the small cylinder back drawing in another charge of water...Depending on what you are doing though it may be problem. If you have 15seconds of water in one stroke and you were doing 1/4 miles you wouldn't have a problem..(you would hope not anyway). If you were doing circuit though you may have any issue on the straights..This problem could over come by using a tandem setup that switches or a double acting piston pump. This gets very complicated and expensive and the economics then don't work.. Both options have the ability to deliver water proportional to boost but I think option 1. is the most feasible...

Hey Guilt-toy how you doin? I've done a bit of reading the last couple of days and it turns out that methanol can react with and dissolve the oxide layer that forms on high aluminium content alloys. It's this oxide layer that protects the metal underneath from further corrosion...So over time running a mixture of water and methanol onto the compressor wheel will cause a chemical attack on the surface. It would be a long term thing and highly dependant on what mixture of methanol to water you run. Btw this is not problem in the plenum because it would be hot enough to keep the water /methanol a vapour...Plus there is much more wall thickness to be erroded before there is a problem. Makes you wonder about the I/C though.... The fact that the inner blades were perfect kind goes against the chemical attack theory though not unless they remain dry and its only the outer ones that contact the water...I also thought of using a very directional nozzle directed onto the retaining nut on the comp wheel...But i ended up decideing that the water would end up being flung off the nut only to be drawn in by the blades any way...It wouldn't work and might even be worse for the comp wheel... A nozzle just off centre would be the best because the velocity of the blades is lowest towards the centre of the comp wheel..The inner (diameter wise) sections also do the least work as well.. if they lose their edge it has less effect on the operation of the compressor than if the whole edge is damaged..my theory anyway..

Never heard of this before....I assume that the principle is water enters manifold, flashes to steam expands and helps spool up turbine...Cant see why it wouldn't work....You would have to be careful about how much water you add...obvioulsy....

Dude I know about the Shurflo pumps. (i thought they around $200 though)...A hobbs switch is a basic switch so the water is either on or off. The good kits have a mapping capability and are much better at controlling the water according to engine load. Control is via pulse width modulated solenoid etc..By the time you add a decent controller and solenoid valve your at least up to $700 (unless your good with Jaycar kits) My aim is to come up with a passive system not requiring a controller or a pump...There is value in this...Its not just about the cost but reliability etc etc

Dude the whole point of this topic is about coming up with an alternative to buying an off the shelf system (that cost about $1000)...Injecting water pre turbo is easier in this regard as you dont need to overcome boost pressure for a start...

Yep..there is no doubt water injection is awesome... I know that after the 2nd world war some imported cars such as Alfas etc came over with higher comp ratios (8-9 :1) and wouldn't run on aussie fuel which was below 75RON or something ridiculous like that..Anyway they used to fit water injection..otherwise they had to pull nearly all of the ignition advance out of the tuning...I think they used a small mechanical water pump driven off the crankshaft...similar principle to injector pump on a diesel.. I am really not sure about the pre turbo injection...it would be good to know if the bloke in SA had noticed any erosion on the edge of the comp wheel blades...if the water droplets are too big, its a known fact that when the comp wheel blades collide with water it is like concrete...thats why I thought of using steam...I know this is putting heat into inlet air but depending on your turbo set up the air temp out of the turbo may be close to 100degC anywayso the amount of extra heat input from steam is only a very small percentage of that added by the compressor itself?? the region in front of the compressor wheel runs at a slighty negative pressure so water will vapourise easier so whatever the droplet size at the injection nozzle, it they will be smaller at the compressor wheel. The question is, how much smaller and are they small enough not to do any damage...Once the water goes through the compressor and is pressurised it will have tendancy to condense again..especially after the intercooler because the temp is a lot lower. I keen to try pre turbo injection but the risk is a turbo rebuild if it goes wrong.... You can use ultrasonic energy as well...If you have small plate vibrating at ultrasonic freq, when a drop water hits it, the water is atomised very well...Thats how those humidifier machines work...Incorporating this in the intake pipe work would be pretty tricky though...In the airbox would good but still tricky...

Thanks for the info... This is what I was considering...For a couple of years I have been contemplating different ways of doing water injection....I have been trying think of alternatives to the electric pump and controller etc. I admit there is nothing wrong these systems. they are good ..they have come along way etc ...especially in price...(very high!!) Anyway I am fan of passive systems...in reality they can be much more reliable if the design is right. Something I came up with the other day is using exhaust gas pressure to pressurize a sealed water tank that feeds water back into the inlet side of the engine. The fact exhaust gas pressure increases with engine load is great because then with a correctly designed nozzle etc your water addition will be proportioned by the engine load. Obviously there are things to consider.... 1. Exhaust gas is very hot.. The heat would need to be pulled out of it before it gets to the tank...I have an idea regarding this though... 2. If water ended up getting drawn back into the exhaust manifold this would be catastrophic. With a good tank design and the right check valve this could be overcome... 3. Water would get contaminated by exhaust gas...I don't think this would be an issue...Your not going to drink it...your engine is... BUT from what you guys are saying the exhaust manifold pressure are typically a bit lower than what I thought...1.5 -2 times boost pressure is probably not enough to get good atomization though a nozzle. I know the proprietary water injection systems run a lot higher pressure.. The alternative is to run water to the inlet side of the compressor but I know if the droplet size is to big its goodbye compressor wheel....I also came up with the idea of steam injection....yes water in a gas....this would not harm the compressor wheel but you are in effect adding heat to your inlet air...The benefit of having water in the inlet stream may out-weigh the loss through due to extra heat but my guess is you may just break even... BTW the water would be turned into steam via a heat exchanger on the exhaust manifold... Anyway thanks for your help....cheers

Hey all, I working on a project and I need to know what sort pressures you get in an exhaust manifold (on a turbo car)?? No its not a typo, I do mean the exhaust manifold before the turbo...I realize there is no great need to measure this and it would hard measure because of the high temperature but I am asking anyway just in case someone has done it before... I am assuming it would be at least 3-4 bar and would increase according to boost (which is good for my project). I know that pressures after the turbo are around 0.5 to 1.0 bar depending exhaust restriction. So ex manifold pressure would be this pressure plus the pressure drop across turbine...which should be greater than compressor boost pressure taking into consideration rotational and other losses in the turbo itself etc.. anyway any info would be great appreciated...

I am not the idiot...So quickly you resort to simple insults... Anyway I don't have anything else to say...my opinion on unlicensed drivers should be clear to you..it is based on experience...you are inconsiderate, shelfish and I have no time for you at all....

Never knew there were so many millionaires on SAU...I mean really...you have would have to be a millionaire to consider driving without a license...Unlicensed EQUALS uninsured... or maybe you just dont give a toss about any poor person you injure when you are driving unlicensed and you are happy for them suffer the stress of taking you to court which, with your already demonstrated lack of responsibility, would be an exercise in futility anyway.... I can't believe these guys are being so open about driving unlicensed ...no f**king shame!!!!

Even with stock cams and adjustable cam gears you can get a noticeable change. Pulling 2-3 degrees out of the exhaust cam on my set up would make the difference between pass and fail noise emissions....The bigger your exhaust is, the more cams will change the note...

Guys, All of the engine bearings utilise what is called hydrodynamic lubrication...(Google it) Basically the oil enters the journal into the clearnance region between the bearing and the journal. The motion of the bearing with repect to the journal moves the oil around the clearance region into a wedge as it approaches the axis of the load on the bearing. As this happens pressure in the oil increases because the wedge is getting narrower. This pressure prevents metal to metal contact. Now the pressure developed in the oil within the bearing is many many many times greater than the oil supply pressure to the bearing. Hundreds of times higher I think depending on many variables. It is the motion of the journal that 'pumps' the oil around it..As the rpm increases, this action requires a higher oil flow. So as long as there is decent oil supply to the bearing it will be happy (unless the clearance is to small or too big). Even 1-2 psi supply at the bearing is enough...as long as the flow into the bearing = the flow out... The trick is getting sufficient oil flow to ALL bearings. There are metres and metres of fine oil galleries and all of these cause pressure drop. So the pump outlet pressure may be 50psi but by the time it has gotten to the bearing it is 30 psi...All bearings will be slightly different depending on where they are ..But Nissan I am sure have designed the oil gallery schematic properly with heaps of redundacy incorporated as well...They would cater for things like wear of the pump as well, oil visosity differences and bearing wear (this changes oil flow through bearing) So IMO very higher oil pressures do not achieve much or add extra insurance. As long as the overall oil flow demand of the engine is met by the existing oil pump. Negatives of really high oil pressure would be higher loading on your oil pump AND adding more heat to your oil. This is because you are doing more work on the oil to increase its pressure so it would get hotter (this is by definition -not opinion)... You also run the risk of blowing out oil seals as well... The main thing is to run good oil and change it often. Good oil doesn't sludge up as much. Oil sludge is the enemy because it can block galleries etc. which is very bad..der!!