Buraz

Price drop Sound system $220ono FCD $60ono Boost controller $200ono

Melbourne, SE suburbs.

Throw me some offers guys, I'm negotiable on prices.

Hey guys, I have some parts that are just taking up space in my garage and need them gone. I prefer a local sale but I'm willing to post at buyers expense. All parts are used and in very good condition, and I'm negotiable on most of the parts so just throw me some offers. Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller in excellent condition, used only for 2 months $220ono Turbosmart Fuel Cut Defender in excellent condition, used for a few weeks $75ono Audioline mono channel amplifier and Alpine Sub in box, Phillips 6x9" speakers, VDO 6.5" speakers, Blaupunkt tweeters and splits, everything in very good condition, basically a full system with no head unit. Dont want to separate $250 Cheers

Hey mate, why don't you give Racepace a call for one of their custom single plate clutches. It will hold your power and are very street friendly, smooth and quiet. They are local aswell so it's easier, i'v got one in my car so if you want to try it out before you make any decisions let me know and we can meet up. They open next week on Monday I think. Cheers

It was in the afternoon, and then saw you a day or two later very early in the morning parking on Charman Rd near Commonwealth Bank.

Thats right mate, built engines are generally built looser to cope with more punishment but won't lats as long. It depends on what clearances are used and other specs during the build, thats why the engine builder will recommend what oil to use to give it best protection in most cases thicker oil, and this is also the reason why they dont have to be run in the same way as a standard daily road car, read Forced Induction section to clarify this or call a reputable workshop or even pm some engine builders/tuners on this site there are many great ones. As with new/everyday cars they are built tighter as you said, to last longer, give better fuel economy and protection as well as pollution etc. It all depends on how the engine is built and to what specs. As one of my previous posts I used an example of BMW and how their M range of cars particulary the E46 M3 strictly use a special blend of 10W60 and nothing else, whether you track it or only street drive it, surely they wouldn't invest this much money into special blend oil, thats not going to give best protection to their top of the range car and give warranty with it. While their other 6 cylinder cars, use 5W30 blend. Oil that might be too thin for one particular car might be too thick for another, it depends as I keep saying to how they are built and to what specs, its not as simple as people make it seem there is more to it. I'm not saying that thicker is better than thinner oil or the other way around as some people think, it really depends on what the particular engine requires thats what I'm trying to get at and this is the reason I haven't posted any technical reasons, it isn't a debate about thicker vs thinner oil its what a particular engine requires depending on different factors, its as simple as that. I'm not an engineer or an oil expert, but I can read and talk to people and learn along the way to have a knowledge about this topic. Cheers

Spotted CAJFLY or something like that on Park rd Cheltenham, very tough looking R33 mate, simple and clean very nice.

Its 2860's he's talking about.

I don't mean any disrespect mate, but are you an expert on oil? And can you give any more reasons to why thinner is better, than it flows better and therefore protects better? As I have mentioned a few times in this tread, that different cars/engines need different weight oils, as mentioned there are some cars from factory running very thick oils and some very thin ones. There is more to it than the theory many go by that thinner is always better and protects better on start up etc. perhaps olive oil is best for start up and protection if every oil is too thick. I suggest that many of you that just go here to give advice without much knowledge, call around or visit as I have and talk to some people that know their stuff, build engines, tune etc and then go by that. I'm not suggesting anything nor did I in any of my other posts, as every engine and car can require different weight oil, wether it be new from factory or built they can all require different weight and can't always apply the same theory to everything, and tell someone who was recommended a certain weight oil by their engine builder not to use it. As I said there are many factors determining what weight oil is required. Cheers

Hey mate, I have steel wheeled turbos with 360 degree thrust bearings in my GTR at the moment cost me around $1200 all up, running 17psi and 287RWKW and I think thats about as far as you can safely boost them and keep them in the efficiency range. To tell you the truth I regret for not getting new Garrett's like R31Nismoid suggested for the price they cost. They just seem to take forever to spool, its much laggier than stock and die of in the high RPM range, and they cant make any more power than this. Just spend a little extra and get Garrett's and be done with it, trust me you wont save much by going the steel wheel way, I'm saying this because now I want to upgrade and have to go through all the shit to get them off again and spend much more than what I would have if I got Garrett's straight away and its not fun mate. I also think -9 are the way to go and they are the ones I'll be getting in the future. Cheers

I'm running 287rwkw on standard 32 dumps with steel wheeled turbos and a Trust pe2 exhaust and Attain front pipes, on 17 psi. Last time I had a chat with my workshop they said that 33 and 34 dumps flow similar power, both are better and flow more than 32 dumps.

Yes thats all I was getting at, just to listen to the engine builder as he would know best as he built the engine and what would suit it the most. Regarding the Ford thing I was trying to point out is that new F6 Typhoon when its run in after about 3000k its recommended to use 10W 60 oil, and it happens that Castrol Edge Sport 10W 60 is approved oil by Ford. It just shows that not all cars are the same, doesn't matter how good the oil's are these days different cars need different weight oil recommended by the manufacturer, or engine builders/tuners when modified as they know what will suit them best. You cant just stick in there what ever you feel like and say but this is a good oil etc. You need to talk to people with experience that have done it before and know their shit. Like I mentioned earlier M3's run 10w 60 weight oil from factory, and their other 6 cylinder engines run 5W 30 blends, so there is obviously a reason to this, the engine is built differently. I was recommended heavier oil because its modified, so now its not really the same as Nissan built it with 9psi boost and much less stress on engine components, and not to mention how many kays the car has really done. Thats why I decided to take expert advice who know these engines well and they have their own reasons. I personally wouldnt go below 10W 40 on an everyday RB26 thats mildly modified and street driven, with a good quality oil like Motul 10W 40 or RP 10W 40. Give a few workshops a buzz and ask for their advice and I bet you alot of them will say 5W 30 is way too thin for RB engines with a few basic mods. Cheers

That's it mate trust your tuner/builder, i wasn't talking about a particular brand you should run in your car, I was more refering to weights and using Castrol as an example because I use it. He should know what weight oil is best suited even if it's street driven there are many different factors eg bearings, clearances, oilpump, boost (more boost more heat), oil pressure, rpm just to mention a few that determine what oil weight to use. Motul is a great oil probably the best and it's price tag suggests the same, but even when you run it in and if you go down the Motul route I bet your builder will recommend 300v 15w 50, because of it's weight. Cheers

By the way there were a few people using 5w 30 oil in m3's on bitog even when BMW strictly recommends tws 10w 60, and only approves one more manufacturer other than Castrol, this just shows that they can be wrong as well and can't go by everything they say it's a forum after all just like sau everyone has their own opinion.

Mate i'v been reading BITOG aswell, they don't have Ford turbo sixes over there as they are aussie built and only sold here and recommend 10w 60 weight oil, nor do they have Castrol Edge Sport 10w 60, I'm just going by what was recommended by professional who work on engines and some manufacturers. I don't understand is if this is what his engine builder recommended to use why people try to steer him in the wrong direction obviously the builder would know best. For my rb26 I was recommnded this weight oil as said before by one of the best in oz who mainly works with rb engines, so I'm guessing he would know a thing or two more than most of us.

I don't know whether BMW uses Castrol anymore or not, I don't use it anyway in my BMW. I'm not protecting Castrol here in any way, but it still doesn't change the fact that heaps of road cars use 10w 60, Ferrari, BMW M cars, FPV F6 recommends it, and so does my tuner and other tuners on this forum. There must be more to it than we know, so in my opinion 10w 60 weight oil sound realistic to me for street driven and track driven duties in a high performance car.

Mate you should be using whatever your builder advised you to, Castrol Edge 10w 60 is a very good oil and I was recommended the same oil on my internaly stock RB26 by one of the best tuners/builders in Melbuorne. Was previously using Royal Purple 10w 40 and he said that it was too thin for a modified RB26 even if its street driven only which my one is. Trust your tuner/builder they have their reasons. Just recently I went to get new oil for my 2003 BMW which needs 5W 30 weight oil and I was told by a BMW technician that its way too thin for aussie conditions and recommended 5W 40 full synthetic and thats with only 60 000kms on a 4 cylinder daily, imagine what a low viscosity oil would be like in a boosted high reving engine. Just for comparison e46 BMW M3's strictly run Castrol blend which is called TWS 10W 60 similar to old Castrol Edge 10W 60 and they are street driven, so they obviously have their reason as do most engine builders/tuners. Castrol Edge 10w 60 is a very good oil and I havent heard anything but good stuff about it, so I would stick to what your engine builder recommended.

I didn't drain anything, a little bit of coolant leaked out when I undid the lines but that's it.

Injector seals from Nissan are very expensive, I called up recently for a set for my GTR and they were very expensive. I found them from EFI Hardware for something like $2 each and they have anything you need injector related. Just to let you know if you want to save some money. www.efihardware.com

I'm in Melbourne mate.

Price drop $230 Ono

Hey guys, I have a set of R32 GTR injectors that I took out last week. They are in very good working order and had no issues with them at all. No leaks and a very nice and even idle. Im after around $250 for them including postage if needed, or a cheaper price for local pick up. Cheers.

Hey mate interested in the dump pipes if you are willing to seperate. Thanks Adnan

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