YEE-HAA

I have finally got my car to the mechanic, who said it wasn't the TPS, or the aac valve, but it was the air regulator under the inlet manifold. Mine was stuck fully open and sucking lots of air all the time and needing lots of fuel at the same time too. I have changed it and my first week's normal run showed an instant improvement with a 12.8l/100km around town. A lot better from the high 13's-low 14 l/100 I was getting before. Cold start idling is now at a respectable 1100 rpm and then around 600-800rpm when warm. Also feels like a different car to drive as well. Next thing to do is fit the new fuel pump!

Hi guys, Thanks for the replies! I was just wondering where you get you figures from in relation to l/hr flow rates! I found this info on the bosch website which states otherwise!!! http://www.bosch.com.au/sat/motorsport/dow...s/fuelpumps.pdf I have been speaking to bosch and they say these are the maximum figures but may increase slightly but not to the extent some people may suggest! I have heard people say the 044 is good for 500-600hp or V8 supercars, but does anyone know what the 910 is good for as it only flows 130l/hr @ 5 bar max, but may increase to 150l/hr @ around 3 bar, and as Bosch dont work by HP figures, it makes it difficult trying to get a pump for my supposedly 240 hp car! Any other thoughts?? Thanks again guys!! :D

Hey Fonz, My mate has a 95 GTS-t manual with 3" exhaust,custom manifold and larger (slightly?) turbo & around 175 rwkw, and he consisentantly gets low to mid 10l/100km around town. His car shows evidence of having a FMI on it at some stage, but it was converted back to a stock intercooler before he purchased it. On the other hand, my 94 GTS-t auto, with 3" exhaust from turbo back,FMI and cheap air pod with 154 rwkw, was getting high 13's to mid 14's l/100km around town. But on a long trip, my car would improve and get around high 9's to low 10l/100km, whereas my mates would stay constantly in the 10's on a trip. I put this down to myself being able to use my overdrive on the trip where I dont use it around town, and he is always in 4th or 5th gear most of the time regardless of where he is. P.S. I said I WAS getting 13-14's because my car was always idling higher than most skylines at around 1000rpm minimum, but has now been fixed and hopefully the fuel consumption should change for the better now.

Hi Guys, Anyone know the (replacemant), Bosch ten digit part number for a GTR fuel pump? Are R32/R33 GTR'S the same pump. I have to change the pump in my GTS-t 33, and was told to get a GTR pump from Bosch, but no-one knows the part number! Can anyone help PLEASE!!!!!! Many thanks in advance!!! :)

I earthed mine where the earth lead from the battery bolts onto the car itself. When you remove the cover hiding the battery, you will see it below the battery. My amp sits next to the battery.

Yes I know what you mean by the "loop" but mine doesnt have it. My mate series 2 does! Instead mine has the plugs/wires going into and out of the ignitor, but then also has an extra two wires coming out of the main harness (from the ecu?) with the ignitor loom next to it, going over the ignitor, and then joins into the other loom again going underneath the plastic cover going to the coil packs. I.E. the main harness coming from the firewall contains two seperate looms, one loom for the ignitor, 6 wires, and one loom which has 2 wires. The two different looms split as they reach the ignitor then join again as they go under the plastic cover. The 2 extra wires are 1 white, 1 black. When you say "flip it over" do you mean the pickup on the timing light, or something else. Thanks again.

This was taken from a SDU site. It worked for me, but I couldnt find the plug in the fuse box. So I did mine from th ecu! Hope it helps. ECU diagnostics The ECU is found in the passenger footwell, behind the plastic kickplate to the left of your feet when sitting. Usually you have to remove the computer from the mounts in the footwell, as the LED(s) you need to see is pointing away from you. Switch on the ignition, but don't start. The LED on the ECU will be glowing. Turn the selector screw clockwise all the way (gently!) If your ECU doesn't have a diagnostic mode screw, use the diagnostic connector to enter the diagnostics mode. ________________________________________________________________ There are three different types of factory ECU available in Skylines. One type has two LEDs and five modes The second type has no LED's. The error codes are flashed with the engine check light in the instrument cluster. The other type has one LED and two modes ________________________________________________________________ For two LED EDU's: the LED will flash once, pause, flash twice, pause... all the way up to five. This is the diagnostic mode. Mode 1 = one flash, mode 5 = five flashes. When you reach the right mode, turn the screw back counter-clockwise. Mode 3 is what most people use. For one LED ECU's: wait a couple of seconds, and turn the screw back counter-clockwise, the ECU is now in mode 2. Note - the engine check light on the dash will mirror the LED on the computer. The LED will flash out a code (or series of codes if there is more than one fault) More recent ECU's have two LED's (red = first digit, green = second digit, eg red 2x flash, green 1x flash = code 21) The ECU's on most R32's have one LED, long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit, eg long, long, short = code 21. Codes: 11 Crankshaft position sensor 12 MAF sensor circuit 13 Coolent temperature circuit 14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit 21 Ignition circuit 31 ECU (ouch!) 34 Knock sensor 43 Throttle position circuit 45 Injector leak 51 Ignition circuit 54 Auto signal to ECU 55 All OK Turn the ignition off to put the ECU back to normal. There is also a O2 sensor test in real time available - do the above to get the ECU into mode 2 (single LED ECU) or mode 1 (2 LED ECU's) Start the engine. Warm the engine, and then run under no load at 2000 rpm for the test. Single LEDs: on = lean, off = rich Dual LED's: green LED on = lean, green LED off = rich Go by the trend shown, eg mostly on = lean, mostly off = rich. The LED should be flashing between 5-10 times per 10 seconds under normal conditions.

I have seen on a website, that the resistance for them should be around .7ohms. I tested mine and they were all 1.0ohm. I was told by an electrical supplier that they either work or they dont. Theres no in between. Theres, measured at .67ohms, (new). There's (ACA) were O.E. type coil packs which relates to a genuine Nissan coil pack. I also saw a R32 GTR manual and quoted the resistance to be between .6-.9 ohms. ACA branded would be well over the $200 mark. Anyone priced a genuine Nissan one BTW??? Frank

Hi guys, Anyone know how to check the ignition timing on a series 1 R33 GTS-T skyline with the amplifier at the back on the rocker cover? I have found out how to do it on a R32 and a series 2 R33, but the series 1 is different to both of them. I am using a conventional inductive timing light. Any help please!! Thanks in advance. Frank!

I assume your talking of a Rb series. If so, yes the marks are in 5 degree increments. 0 degrees is marked orange, or otherwise it is the one closest to the left while looking down at it. Hope this helps.

I have since swapped the whole AAC valve assembly with my mates, whose car idles at a respectable 1000rpm cold. This did not change anything at all on my car. I have been told it could be the TPS, even though it measured 0 ohms, the variable resistor may need to be readjusted. Anyone one else done this before on a Series 1 33?? Thanks in advance!! (

I did adjust it with plug disconnected, with above results, which is why I pulled it off again. I cleaned it with carby cleaner intially, hence the above problems. It only had a small amount of carbon in there & the throttle body BTW. Any other thoughts???

After much deliberation, I adjusted the screw on the AAC Valve, to no avail. It only dropped a couple of hundred revs. I then decided to pull off the whole air regulator with the AAC Valve on it, to find that the AAC is stuck partially open in its unmounted state, (but still bolted to the air regulator.) I put 12v to it, and it didnt work as it should,(contracting the inner pin), and even after plugging it straight onto the end of the wiring loom, it still did nothing. I figure this is what is causing the high idle. Does anyone agree with my theory?? Thanks in advance. Just as a matter of interest. my mates manual 33 idles at 1000 rpm cold and drops to around 700-800rpm once warm.

ACA make coil packs for the R33 now. Their part number is C192.

You can try Coventry Auto Parts in Sydney. Bosch part number that they stock is 0 280 142 103.

I noticed my shocks were gone while driving on a cruise in the Adelaide Hiills, and I noticed the car understeering majorly, and I lost confidence in it. Once I replaced all four shocks with brand new Bilsteins, the car, and I, were happy as Larry!

I'm chasing the (ROUND) AAC Valve on the rear of the plenum chamber with the two pin eletrical connector only. (Not the Fast Idle Compensating Device Switch / Hexagonal Shape) next to it and not the whole air regulator assembly! Mine stays open! How much?? Please message me or reply here! Im in Adelaide BTW.

I was told by my Nissan dealer when I purchased my belt for my RB25, that they are the same for RB20 as well. I cant remember if they are the same for an RB26 though.

Well I have checked the ecu codes, and disconnected the battery to no avail. The ecu came up with code 55; admittedly it was after i disconnected the battery and drove it for two days with the same problem. I did notice the vacuum hose coming off my aftermarket BOV was slightly cracked, so started wondering if this was the cause of the problems? Any thoughts???? I have also checked the TPS, 0 ohms result, and the AAC valve had continuity. I remember seeing how to adjust the idle via the ecu, but I cant remember where I saw it?? Anyone know of this???? The only other thing I can think of doing is adjusting the AAC valve screw, but Im worried it will alter the air/fuel mixture to its detriment, even though it only controls the air flow. Any help greatly appreciated.

DBA has 296mm slotted rotors listed for the R33 gtst part numbers DBA4963SL and DBA4963SR left & right respectively. They are Kangaroo paw vented design and also features their new `wiper slot' slotted design. In WA, you can also try Coventrys.

I joined with Famous after my premium went up some 35% with Just Cars for no reason (No claims for 2 years, Rating 1 etc etc.) I was especially p***ed off after my friend , who also got his renewal from Just Car, was told his premium for his 96 33 only went up to $1300, up $150, because he told them he put in a new cd deck; which accounted for $100 of that increase. Just Car couldnt/wouldnt justify this, even though we are both Rating 1, excellent driving records, both the same age. The only difference was my car was 2 years older than his, and we were in two different postcodes! Yet I had been with Just Cars longer than him!!!????Go figure!! On the up side, Famous also insure many other cars in the club here, (Nissan SVD Club) and they paid a claim of one our members after he smashed his car 1 day after joining Famous. Quite outstanding I think! Good onya Famous! We need more companies like you. What clenced it for me was that they didnt care what mods you had done to the car,(as long as they are legal)ie: wheels, bodykit, intercooler etc. I have been with Famous for about 6 weeks, and hopefully, fingers crossed, I wont have to call upon them, but after hearing the other good stories, I'm resting easy.