YEE-HAA

Im assuming you want to look up a Nissan, (why would you wanna buy anything else!! ha ha) but you could try here Nissan Epc ; they also have other Japanese brands if its not a nissan. This will give you a brief breakdown and description of some if any options. It also doubles as a "fast online catalog". Hope it helps

Hmmm Sounds a bit worrying, its always good to get a second or even third opinion. The trade is quiet @ the moment in places so they may be trying to pull the wool over your eyes. If its just sounds your hearing and not feeling anything through the pedal it may just need pads, so your thinking is right. Have a look @ the rotors thru the wheel; do they have a lip or grooves or any other strange markings? The rotor should be smooth, but if they are glazed, they may need a machine or the very least a few firm stops to take the shine off them; providing all else is ok. It may not even be the pads making the noise; we had a guy here who had a similar problem on his car, and it turned out to be the backing shim of the disc rubbing. Food for thought

Thanks Commsman, Bummer bout the sd slot, Oh well I'll just have to keep on using my unlocked navman; would of been nice to use the factory screen, much better than the 4.7" of the navman. BTW I couldnt see the input on the pics of the asuka tuner and I couldnt understand the concept of rca > headphone plug????!!!

Hi I read elsewhere that these tuners may have a usb & sd card slot in them; or is that a different tuner? If it is these, as I will be looking at getting one for my Stagea, 1: would you be able to run a nav program thru the sd slot, (as I have unlocked my navman and it runs garmin/tom tom etc off the micro sd card)? & 2: Is the factory pop up nav screen touch screen enabled therefore utilising the nav program that I may run thru the sd slot? Any suggestions if it isnt a touch screen are welcome.

Hi Spong I tried on my 04 Stagea, (it has carwings, but only when you select it from pushing the menu (4th) button on top row), and I only get 4 options once in the carwings column. The only other column visible is the one for the trip computer info; fuel consumption, timers service reminder & fm radio adjustment. Though in saying that I was trying it on the weekend and somehow got to a menu which had a picture of a phone, and it seemed to be searching, but I didnt have my phone nearby so when I tried it again with phone in the car, I couldnt find it, and it appears I deleted a heap of entries in the process. Something with channel numbers and things with envelopes (like emails). Doh!! I'm beginning to think I dont have actual 'bluetooth' as I have the phone cable in the centre console, and I also have the steering wheel buttons, "vol, up/down, a pic of a phone, a pic of a person speaking (voice menu?), and the track/station up/down button." I also tried by voice command saying many things like "commando risto, setup, pair phone, menu" to name a few, all to no avail. Obviously my navi controls are still in Japanese. 1 thing you dont mention is if the ignition switch has to be on accessory or the ignition position when pairing the phone? What did you do if you can recall?

I fitted non adjustable Bilsteins front & rear to my 33 some (5/6+) years ago now with the standard factory springs, and found them firm at first but over the years have got used to them. Good thing about them is they are rebuildable from Quandrants in Victoria. I paid approx $1100 for all of them back then. Good value as they are still going strong today.

WOW! I have finally finished reading ALL 50 PAGES, 15 of them today, and now my head feels like it wants to explode. Im getting my M35 Stagea soon, hence why I am reading up on this subject. Hey Andy good work on the conversion, coming from a club background I know what its like to do things for the club to promote and make members rides just that little bit better if not a lot. Hopefully the move to the US for your russsian contact doesnt slow the conversion too much. Got a question re the tv tuners though, I did read there is the Asuka tuners but I also did see a link for the HiTV tuners. Are you guys supplying both or just one, even though from the quick look at the Hitv, the Asuka looks better with the usb and hdmi jacks; though from previous experience with stb's I have had the rs-232 port can come in handy for firmware upgrades if needed. If you are doing the HiTv, what's the price and what experiences have people had with these if any. Going to take some Neurofen now!!

I have gone thru J-Spec,(soon to land an M35) after being referred by a work collegue who brought 2 cars thru J-spec, and I must say Ben has gone above & beyond, is very helpful and answers all questions if he can, and if he cant, he'll get an answer for you. Top bloke cant recommend him enough. I wouldnt hesitate to buy thru Ben again. J-Spec Imports

sorry entered post twice

I changed my pump over 12 months ago with a N1 pump. Price difference wasnt much, but N1 was cheaper than a standard (then), so I got that. I priced them just a few weeks ago @ time of writing this and the price has sky-rocketed to over $300 for a N1 pump from Nissan. I wouldn't put a VL/R31 rb30 Skyline pump on as the impellors are much smaller than a standard rb25 pump. (Im in the trade and compared all options.) ***A WORD OF WARNING IF CONSIDERING FITTING A N1 PUMP*** If you fit a N1 pump to a GTS-t (mine is a R33) you must fill in the smallest bolt hole which takes the smallest bolt when fitting, which is directly above the impellor, with Devcon (part # S-5), or something similar so that only the bolt will fit through it. ie: on a N1 pump, there is an elongated bolt hole where the standard pump has a round bolt hole. This hole must be (almost) filled to prevent coolant leaking out. YOU CANT FILL IT WITH SILASTIC OR OTHER GASKET GOO as it will break down over time and eventually leak, and therefore you will have to pull it all apart again and do it properly. I wasnt told this when purchasing so hence I had to do it twice! :-( Apparently this hole is used on GTR's. Just some friendly advice.

Heres some pics which may help you on where to jack and place stands under the car. I always jack up on one tow point on the front, then place a stand under the other to get enough height for the jack to get under the cross member. Then simply jack up on crossmember and place stands underneath cross member. Hope it helps Frank!

I fitted a K & N pod filter, which is enclosed in its own tub, (from a locally produced car) and plumbed 90mm pipes to the air flow metre. The car has never gone better! I also fitted a inner splash sheild to protect the tub from water/ stones etc. Only things to be aware of is speed humps/steep driveways, and large puddles as the snorkel sits below the bar.

Benm, Your not imaging it! I had Bendix Ultimates in my car (front only), and the pedal was noticably firmer right from go- to-whoa! (Sorry! Couldnt help myself!). I then replaced them with Bendix Advance, and the pedal became a little softer!. But as with what other peolpe have said, the Ultimates stop on a dime, I have to admit that! You cannot fault it for that! But yes, they dust! Boy do they dust! That was the main reason why I went back to Advance, especially seeing as I mainly travel to & from work and dont hammer the brakes that much. So Im content to trade off a softer pedal for cleaner wheels longer!. Hope this helps.

Hey gregles! Jimx is right! DBA had the specs wrong early on, and quoted 30mm minimum, but found ppl had trouble getting brake pads in. Just ask TG! Hence a fellow member who got a early batch! They still work fine, but its better to have the proper ones. You can view the Dba catalogue @ www.dba.com.au; If your still unsure, you can call me @ work! BTW! I put slotted rotors on mine!

Hey West, Your probably thinking of DB1165, which is usually listed as an Aussie R31 pad, but that is the wrong p/n for even that! DB1170 is for the front of R33 GTS_t. Not sure what it is for a non-turbo. BTW DB1220 is for the rear of R33 GTS_t if you need them some time soon. From memory, I think my calipers had sumitomo stamped on them as well! Hope it helps.

Hey Jon, Do they have one for the R33 GTS-t as well??

I had a similar prob with my rocker covers getting loose. Last time I changed my plugs, I checked the rocker covers to find the exhaust side rocker cover, and the coil side of the inlet rocker cover to be quite loose. I got about 1 1/2 turns out of most of them. Just tightened them up again. I also noticed smelling fumes, from the oil seeping out the side, which no longers happens since I tightened them down.

I suggest you go to www.ngkspark.com.au and have a look there. Also, I WOULD NOT put ANY kind of copper plug in whatsoever!!!! Best to stick with platniums as a minimum. The PFR8B-9's the mechanic installed are incorrect!!! Also contrary to what others have said, the cold plugs will overheat and can cause pinging!!! Do a search on the spark plugs thread that I replied to and you will find the correct part number for a R33 for both Platniums and Iridiums!! Hope it helps!!! ;)

Well finally got to check the sensors, with the following outcomes; 1) VL Turbo & NA motors run exact same oxy sensor (same part number and same as 3.0lt Skyline.) 2) The threads between Skyline & EA-EF oxy sensors different, with skyline type being bout half the size as Ford type. 3) Ford type, even though bigger than Skyline type, is still smaller than the one fitted (in my car at least). I have a custom dump pipe off the turbo. So it sems back to the drawing board for me @ least! Guys who have fitted Ford sensor, do you still have the factory dump pipe/exhaust, or did you custom fit it? Hope it helps.

My GTS-t pump also had the same as otto's. They are not part numbers, but more like casting numbers if anything. Anyway, they would be no good to a Nissan dealer as they would not be able to identify by these numbers. On the other hand though, the GTR pump I brought had A42-T45 from memory on the side, and an extra round fitting on top of the pump. So it had two terminals and the fuel outlet (as per normal), but whereas the GTS-T pump only had one other fitting on top of the pump, the GTR style had two. Hope this helps.

Hey GRADENKO, I have looked at an R31 RB30 sensor. They have the same amount of wires, (though only two wires are the same colour from memory), & the EXACT same plug, which makes things a lot easier to connect instead of cutting and re-joining wires. As for the threads, I will compare both tomorrow. If its the same as the EF sensor, then I cant see why it wont go in, unless somethings drastically different.

Hey Gradenko! You may wanna re-read my post on this thread! Post #40 Hope it helps!

I have a set of stock R33 GTS-t rims with tyres, for sale. All rims in very good condition, no scratches, one slightly stained, which was there before I got them. Would prefer to sell to some one in Adelaide! Two tyres are down to minimum wear indicators, the other two have a bit of wear left in them. Can send pics to interested ppl! Serious offers only!

Front park lights on a R33 are are 12v 5W. Hella p/n W125, Narva p/n 47501, Tungrsam p/n T5307. They are the same type as the instrument globes from memory.

Any one thought of using a Skyline oxygen sensor? Just had a look at a R31/VL 3.0 ltr type, and they have the exactly same type of plug, so you can just screw it in and plug it in. A lot easier I think!