Piggaz

How many boxes do you go through to find "the freak". It's a prick of a job at the best of times. I'll pick Mick Hills stocker in and turn it down. No trackdays, no hard driving. See what's busted in mine and make a decision. I really need to drive a dog box to see what the go is with them.

I know man. ESP when it's a part that "shouldn't" have busted . Grr. Was speaking to Gav yesterday, he put it in a funny way. He calls it "the gap". OS's don't seem to last, the next option is an expensive one. I'll buy the boxes and as they die, you install them for me?

Daz was saying this is on a Hubber. Anyone care to have a guess at what the difference is between a hub and roller dyno? My last figures were 375 kw at 4500, 425 kw at 5000 and 470 (6500) odd up top. Boost was 27 tapering back to 25 top end. Interestingly was the difference between setting "2" and "3" on my controller. Setting 2 is 23 PSI (give or take) and the midrange was 50 KW less than setting 3. It would be interesting to have both cars there, get out of one and into the other. They're 63's IIRC. Damn stout effort. I'm too wonder if the standard compact housing is/will hamper the GTX's. Power wise it seems up there but it's the apparent surge that might be an issue.

Double postage!

That R3C thing is one hardcore clutch. The Nismo will an awesome "upgrade" and definitely help with boxes staying together.

Haha What's yours? $$ Why are you selling it?

I have the billet sammich plate, so that's one thing I won't have to buy haha.

Interesting man. Cryo a OS set? Lol

It could be like the squish pad debate too. Leave them, take one out or take both out. It would be nice to test them all but that's just not realistic.

472 rwkw on -5's is peak power (6500 rpm) 375 kw at 4500 rpm 425 kw at 5000 rpm

No idea if leaving them in would have changed my power/curve. HKS/NAPREC did this head, so they must have their little "formula" that they have worked out over the years. Some guys on here have had a few things to say about how my head was finished off but the result hasn't been half bad so it can't be all junk.

15K? Holy fark. I

Right guys. It looks like I've busted my OS 5 speed in my GTR. It's currently making 470 rwkw and peak torque (according to the dyno so NFI is its accurate) is 762 NM at 5100 RPM IIRC. The 5 speed has been in the for the past 5 or so years. When I popped my engine last year I found two locating pads on the box drain plug, so it got rebuilt and it was all sweet. Last Tuesday rolled around and it looks like I have either bent or stripped a tooth in second gear. I know Gav has busted two of these things and also Tricstar one or too also. I'm not one to flat change or jam it into gear, i'm pretty soft on the box like that as I don't want to bust another one. So, whats the options? Are the PPG dog boxes really that horrible on the street? Is wear an issue with the dogs? Will it last 50,000 kms given some mech sympathy. Is it going to be a case of people that have never driven a dog box before not being able to jump into the car and drive it? I'm not interested in turning the car into a "track car only". That's not what the car is there for, however, i'm not too keen on busting boxes because I decided I want to get up it a tad. I was thinking straight cut 1,2,3,4, helical 5th (for highway) but still synchro but PPG doesn't do that set. The Helical set is rated to 800 HP, so is the OS so that doesn't "really" fix the issue here. The thought of the R34 6 speed came into my head but that would also need change in diff ratio's. The 6 speed with 4.11's would feel like an EVO and I quite like the tall ratio's of the OS box. It worked well with the broad curve. Another thing is, are they that strong? You don't hear a lot of them busting like the 5 speeds. Sequential. Well, its a lot of cash and I think it goes from "street car" to "race car" with one of them in it, so that really is not an option.

These are photo's of my own head. Exhaust ports takes out to gasket size. Elrodeo666's head was the same . I don't have water in my turbine housings yet.

The coin aside, I just don't want a sequential. I think it would be a dead set pain in the ass driving around.

Sequential just screams race car. That's the line between "streeter" and not. Bit overboard really. It ain't a time attack car.

Argh. See the 34 conversion isn't a cheap one either. Shafts, flywheels, the box itself. I really don't know what way to go. Gav in WA has busted two OS sets. Maybe they're not that strong after all? A Synchro, straight cut 1-4 with a helical 5th would be perfect.

I've thought about the R34 box. Are they really that strong? I liked the long ratios, it worked well. With the getrag and 4.11's it would go back to "Evo like rowing gears", which is something I don't think I'd like.Holinger.... Nah. $20k for a box. Blah lol

Will do.I can't see it getting "too" hot in a ten minute session.

Looks like a Melbourne car. Yes?

Award f**ked up? Hoping its a collapsed bearing. I've rung Terry and he hasn't given me good news.

Lol.Yeah, no. There is nothing "street" about a holinger box.

If I could quote both on my phone I would! Ants; it's the torque. Twist x RPM = power. Bah. BBQ Sleeper; I know what you're saying. I'm Not one to be hard on the equipment. Hell, I turned the boost down and was shifting at no more than 6500 RPM. I never shift hard. Grr.

Dunno why it broke. I pulled the boost down to 1.5 bar (minimum I can run). Came in second session and second gear was knocking. Terry at award thinks its a bent or broken gear. Dunno when I'm gonna pull it out. I'm a bit heart broken ATM.

Definately second mr Marko