Piggaz

https://www.reaperengineering.com/collections/mufflers/products/copy-of-reaper-engineering-twin-twin-big-bertha-mufflers?variant=39680017334335

You can most definitely drive a sequential in the street. Here is a video of just sub 2500 rpm, taking off from a set of lights, casually using the clutch in a 60 kph zone. You do not need to hang off the gear stick like a gorilla, tearing around like a lunatic 100% of the time. Put a bit of preload on the stick and all is well. 🤷‍♂️ You have to go down through the gears. Big deal, bikes are like that. It’s just a little bit ‘different’. The box in video is a PPG 6 speed. This video was taken not long after I got it in. Definitely got more a feel and was able to cut out most of the engagement of the dogs. 94535063-cdf8-47e4-8433-705a86178369.mp4

In physical wheel size or airflow? Airflow for the 8085 is wayyy more than the dinosaur T51 turd could dream of.

Ahh the old drive line bills. Shit gets very expensive very quickly 🤣 The thing about looking at the ratios and basing them around 2 corners on a track, it may potentially suck everywhere else, especially on the street. Those long ratios are painful. If you’re going to do it, considering a 5 speed is crazy. They’re junk. A 6 speed “wakes the whole car up”. All of a sudden you have an option of two gears for a corner.

Good chance you’ll bust it (many gtr’s that have used this set have, including myself) gearing is tall as (140 kph at 8000 rpm assuming a 265/35x18 tyre and 4.11 final drive ratio). 5 speeds suck. You’d also need the updated synchros. It’s also common to have a 3rd gear vibration with these gear sets. Gtr.co.uk has a couple old threads on the topic. Can’t put a CD009 in it?

Why not get some QUALITY and BIG mufflers and run a 4 inch? Less complexity, less things to fail and have a better result all round.

No GTR engine should be allowed back in its hole without a front diff upgrade… hands down, the best mod you can do, just infront of putting the twins in the dumpster.

Correct, the crank trigger sensor and crank trigger wheel.

Check the air gap between the sensor and the wheel. I would put money on it being wrong. A word of caution. Sort it out ASAP. This is no different to smashing the limiter… and we all know how much RB oil pumps love that.

So what is the gauge on the A pillar going to tell you? Boost?

It’s insurance for the engine and gearbox 🤷‍♂️

Billet blocks, sequential boxes and god knows whatever else, a dash is Fark all 🤣

Have a look at what your rear wheels do under braking. When I did my suspension setup however moons ago, the rear was toeing out under brakes making the car farken scary and quite unpredictable. Assuming the HICAS is locked out (as we all know it should be because it’s junk), the movement of the lockout bar 10mm up and 10mm out fixed it. I have the report somewhere. Could flick it to you if you’d like.

Wouldn't the manifold you buy be dictated by the turbo and rear housing you choose? You're chasing 'early spool' so it would make sense to choose a T4 TS manifold for a T4 TS turbine housing.

Surely if someone can warrant a billet block, the idea of that car being a daily driver is long gone. It’s a toy that’s taken out when you want. It can still be a street car. 🤷‍♂️

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$200

GTII-SS is a glorified SS/-9 with lazy journal bearings. It wouldn’t be hard to beat it. Stockers are average at best, lazy, laggy, soft as a sponge cake under foot and boring. Going bigger just makes the whole turd system worse. Josh, so throw a vcam at a stock 2.6 with a budget gtx gen2 3071 (insert your flavour of snail brand) open scroll, let alone a TS setup. I would bet my own car that it would kick the shit out of a SS/-9/ whatever the latest shit offerings that HKS have on offer, out of the park.

Considering Voodoo‘s results using a Gen2 3576, something along the lines of a Gen2 3071/G series 660/ EFR 7163 or something similar would be right up the alley for the goal here. Depending on how fancy your want to get, go all in with a TS manifold (not sure why if you’re doing the swap you wouldn’t go that extra step as you’re buying a manifold and rear housing to suit anyway). Between buying and optimising all the junk needed for a twin setup… dumps, front pipes, playing with the twin turbo pipe, potentially AFM’s, hard pipe kit and the turbos themselves, going from a totally stock car to a single there wouldn’t be that much price difference. Couldn’t be assed sitting here and working it out. An open scroll 3576 is doing it’s thing by high 3000’s on a stock donk, drop down a couple snail sizes to fall in line with what a typical -7/-9 setup would do and the result would take a big steamy turd of the twin buttplugs. The thing is guys don’t buy a turbo that’s the same flow rate as what the twin turds will flow, it’s always more.

Remove 8374, replace with 7670, G series/PTE/choose your poison equivalent. Bit silly to be running such a large snail that’s capable north of 500awkw like a church mouse sneezing then complaining that the -7’s which is basically a stock sized snail (N1’s) do the low end stuff better. 😖

The GT series link you provided is for the larger -5’s. https://www.turbomaster.info/eng/applications/707160-0009.php link for -7’s.

$250

You’d get to know how far you need/want to be behind the car in front before it slows down. Adaptive brain for adaptive cruise? 🤣🤪

What’s the limit of boost at 9.0:1? Very curious to know.

Only way to know for sure is to measure it up. There are soooooo many variables here. - has the block been decked? - has the head been decked? - head gasket thickness? You could put the valve recesses into the pistons yourself.