SLED

You're absolutely right Dave.....what a tool!

IMO I think Martin Donan from Willall Racing is one of the best tuners in the country and I know he has recently stated that a bigger turbo will always give you the biggest noticable hp increase so for a few $$$ more, I would be looking into getting that area sorted out first. Once you've got your turbo, fuel & ECU sorted out, its then a matter of choice as to what you are using the car for but cams & gears would be the obvious next bolt on to consider. My personal favourite for the street is the Tomei 'B' Poncam but rev210 who has had more hands on experience with cams on RB motors specifically may be able to further advise you in relation to choice. Hope this helps.

Items: R34 GTR V-Spec Turbos $1500 pair R34 GTR V-Spec Dump Pipes w/- Heat Shields $250 pair R34 GTR V-Spec Fuel Rail & FPR $70 pair HKS Air Filter Pods w/- AFM Adaptors $300 pair Condition: Excellent Reason for sale: Upgraded More Info: Turbos are ceramic wheels, roller bearings Ring 0400 850005 or PM me

Items: Panasonic 68cm TV with remote & cabinet $275 Pioneer DVD player with remote $150 Condition: Excellent working order Reason for sale: Upgraded Other: Can deliver locally for small fee Ring 0400 850005 or PM me

Bit of a catch 22 situation unfortunately, as much as he needs to be reported, it only gives cops more ammo against Skyline drivers in general.....we can't win.

whew that's a relief.....here am I thinking that there was some serious chicken choking going down

now you're getting desperate steve

Sad news Dave. Easier said than done but try to cheer up bud.

Ya reckon....oh ok then, cos I was thinking of comin on the bike instead, but I'm easy. Bike might attract too much police attention anyway if i joined the cruise with it......it would make a good mascot though as long as ya didn't slam into my ass end, my brake light isn't very bright.

We're going to melt this Sat Andrew!!! How does your car cope in the heat and when r u getting it detailed?

mate this dinner is looking like it'll be bigger than ben hur........suppose I'll have to try and make it too

yeah yeah sure sure Andrew.......Shaun's dyno doesn't go up to 16,000rpm so we'll never know for sure if you do get 230

Yeah no offense taken . I always try to compare apples with apples though, ie: same valve timing on the 2 types etc because as you have already stated, response can go up and down the rpm range just with a set of adj gears. Having said all that, my GTR does have a few mods so I would be keen to see some of your results on 26dett's.........I realize there are alot more experts out there that I could learn from as my knowlegde is not neccesarily engine specific and what works for a 6cyl boxer motor may not work on an RB26. Here is a good post from my mate WEGS who has had responses from some of the big guns on a similar issue......I think you even had a go in there. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ke...43#entry3617443

You're way too emotional and taking this personally not to mention moving away from the specific subject in relation to the question asked by Joel. During my 20 years at Adelaide Engine we had a cam grinder with approx 200 different masters that included profiles from everything from a 40hp 1200cc VW to Porsche.....what's your engineering background?

No arguement there.....isn't that what I was saying though......have another read and you'll see I was referring to response & flexibility on an otherwise stock motor? In my first post on this thread I asked Joel what else he's done to his motor and what his plans are b4 being able to advise further. Why would someone change cams on a relatively stock motor.....doesn't make any sense (if that is the case).

That is assuming all things are even and you're running a stock ECU because a good Motec system can wind lag out of motors with big turbos & cams to a certain degree......but don't forget that's the ECU doing that not the cams.

If you read what I've said carefully you'll see I was referring to response and flexibility, there's no arguement that increased lift and duration will draw more air and fuel which = more power.

hey 4door, dont know about that NE mob......the mob I had trouble with were right out north, but having said that, they refunded 85% of my money and acknowledged the work was shocking so I suppose I forgive them but you know what they say, "once bitten twice shy".

????? Any lobe profile that holds the valve open longer than a STD lobe will move the power curve further into the rpm and can even narrow the power band which results in less flexibility & response on the street unless you have supporting mods.......not to mention that you take a hit with slightly less compression due to increased overlap.

Another thing I liked about Shaun at Boostworks was that he monitored temperature, timing (detonation) and fuel supply very closely on every run. Proof of that was that with some cars he immediately back off when it leaned out or started to detonate. I've stood next to my car with one tuner just north east of town who revved the crap out of my car then said, gee I got abit of pinging there WELL WHY DID YOU CONTINUE TO REV IT THEN!!! and sometimes 2 or 3 times after he realized that it was either detonating or running out of fuel.

Yeah I think Martin is probably one of the best tuners in the country but his biggest issue from what I'm hearing from many that have seen him recently is that he doesn't spend enough time on the tune (unless you know him well). I'm not inferring that this is what Martin does but in general it's not good enough to do a run on the dyno then go back and tune only the ghost part of the map, you need to tune the whole map (fuel & timing) because on the street the load and temperatures vary which will always put you into a different part of the maps. Have a look at the ramp rate that Shaun at Boostworks ran on Sat (150), figures may not look as high as some people would've liked but at least his ramp rate equates to real life on the street moreso than a rate of 200. Just because your car doesn't detonate on the dyno does not mean it won't on the street.

Little bit too simplistic of an answer champ, there are many variables when it comes to cam lift & profile. Other things that play a big role are overlap and ramp speed. You can have a STD lift cam with a very lump idle if you have a big overlap. You can even dial some compression out of your cylinders with the right profile. Joel you would probably find that the STD cams for street use would be fine unless you're spending a few $$$ on other mods. We need to know what you've done to your motor and what your aiming for to advise correctly.

Gee, great turn out from SAU..............NOT!!! Don't cry if this doesn't get off the ground. Counted less than 10 of ya there.......great turn out by all the old drag racing boys though (car & bike).

Yeah I've got an R34 GTR V-Spec in-tank pump that I just removed for mods.......worked fine and hasn't done much work so if you get stuck PM me

+1 Gold Star When I built the bike last year I tried a few people around Adelaide........Don't go out north for for any chroming, I had a bad experience out there with bubbling & pitting. Other than Gold Star I would send my stuff to a mob in Melbourne. Depends how fussy you are at the end of the day.....I wanted a finish that would win shows.