BOOSTMEISTER

Actually it was Apexi not trust on the shirts...and they didn't cost much as I made them ... Thanks for the compliment regarding sexyness a lot of people share your opinion Lastly if you need me to waste anymore of your time please let me know and I will do my best. Not 100% but Troy at Zoom is going to Japan in about 2 weeks so if you hurry you might just catch him. Cam

One of the things about Jap BOV's is that unlike ones from Oz they aren't all simply products of the metal laythe....A lot of Jap ones are actually cast items, this is why they are far more expensive. From memory the HKS Sequencial BOV is not adjustable, I had one a long time ago on my starlet. The Super Sequencial is though.....then of course there is the Super Racing BOV from HKS, now that's expensive

Yeh that was mine before I sold it and bought an ISUZU MU ????? Don't ask, please don't ask it only makes me sad....new car will solve my cravings

Best front bar IMO is the Trust one (Or copy) it looks great and goes well with the stock side skirts.

When I bought mine I had no issues then I spoke to the guys at BD4's (HKS Agent) and they said that it was rare that the Idle stabiliser was necessary ..... Different cars/people different experiences

I can assure you Sir that this comment will not help your cause even if said in fun. Too many people don't contribute to this forum but want all the info they can get. I am sure that if someone had the answer for you they would have posted.....Not everyone is as wealthy as you and can afford imported rims.

Thanks mate, as i have told you it was a pleasure to help you out

Yeh EnricoPalazzo that is right, I was thinking of something else when I was typing, when they do it you can set the throttle body up with some flexi pipe and adjust the angle of the throttle body so that you get the air flow right...etc

For any plenum mods it is a very good idea to have it flow bench tested...i.e. block off all but one runner and test air flow from throttle body out the 1 hole then do the same for the rest, if they are pretty much the same then go for it....

Thats what I thought but wasn't sure...anyone know for sure, Thanks Jay

Why would it slide back? It is still mounted in the same way, make no mistake, that piece of black plastic at the base of the windscreen will not save you? If you are going that high then do a extraction scoop behind the radiator or build a heat shield around the exhaust housing that extends up to the bonnet and seal it to the bonnet and cut a hole in the bonnet to allow hot air to escape that way, if done right it should look good.

Which of these rims has the bigger "dish" Wheel 1 = 22 Offset Wheel 2 = 45 Offset I realise I should know this but I have forgotten Thanks you guys

Yep...first third of bonnet

I am actually gettting it from a dealer and not actually importing it my self so it is all good...the first one didn't turn out to be what the importer thought...Just cause it says twin turbo on the tail light doesn't mean it will be a twin engine

No mate....in fact I was hardly in the car at all

Yes that is right, it is strange, I would have assumed that if the air came in the front it would naturally flow right out the back but it won't. I remember driving along and putting my hand out to feel the hot air being forced out the back of the bonnet...there wasn't any ?

Guys, I am a tad confused ??? Can someone summerise what this is all about, I have read right through the thread. Does this 15 year rule only apply to "private" imports or to all imports? Can I import a 10year old car so long as I pay for compliance? Thanks, I am waiting on a car at the moment, it's on the water but it is older than 15 years 87/88 I think...will this be complied ?

Can't argue with that

If you have a gtst then it can't be awd cause your chasis is different, why go for a 34 engine ? Lots of money just buy any rb26dett.

The thing is that it used to be in Winter ???? It was great, fast times at night etc but I think it was too cold for the girls who came dressed for the day and seemed to forget/didn't realise it would gt very cold at night....Also, it could have clashed with the Winternats....I would prefer a winter event personally.

To be honest it has little to no effect at all, for any form of cooling in the bonnet the vent area needs to be in the first third of the bonnet. This from a guy who makes carbon bonnets for a living for rally etc. Something to do with the wind speed, it will not push all the way trough the engine bay and out the back. I used to have mine up 5mm at the rear but this was to help clear fmic piping and strut brace as they both touched slightly on the bonnet liner.

Thanks guys There were a lot of things I should have done before selling my car like "TAKE TEMPLATES FOR THINGS I MADE" Dam it.....I spend hundreds of hours making bits and pieces for my car then I go and sell it Oh well. The carbon cost me about $200 but you could use anything, although I don't usually like using wood in cars, you could use some 5mm MDF then just paint it in gloss black (Oil based) this would look good and cost about $20...but the carbon looks nice. The sheet I bought was an off cut from a job that the Carbon guy here in Toowoomba had done so I got it cheap, I hate to think what it would have cost me to have made....He uses an auto-clave...read: $1.1m piece of gear....to finish it off and get all the air out of it so it is perfect, this is the difference between doing it at home or getting a fiberglasser to do it. Sorry I can't make you one, even if I had the templates it is still a timely process and I would have to charge you too much....there is a lot of detail in those shots so have a go yor self, just use some 2-3mm cardboard (Like the year planner I used) this makes it ridgit enough to be accurate. You will get great satisfaction from giving it a go...trust me.

19. Part way through this I changed from the BLITZ air filter to a HKS one...I had to make the adapter to make it fit...but thats another lesson 20. All in place, note that the carbon canister has also been moved to the rear of the engine bay to make room for the CUSCO oil catch can which should be next to the battery but my fmic piping was in the road.

13. I can't remember what the two holes are for but there were two holes in the engine on the strut tower that I used to anchor the vertical section, I made this little alloy plate to protect the carbon from being squashed when the bolts were tightened 14. Quick run on the buffer brings it up nice 15. Here it is in place. 16. After cutting the top out it is just a matter of wacking on some clear coat to make the carbon really shine. 17. I used some screw in trim plugs to hold the top to the alloy right angle which I had drilled holes in. 18. Showing the vertical carbon in place.

7. Pretty aint she 8. As per caption...bit scary 9. Carbon is very hard, don't worry bout being rough. 10. Almost finished cutting it out using a hand blade (In top of pic) 11. Here I am using some 1" right angle alloy to make the mount for the lid 12. I used small bolts to attach it then used screw head covers to hide them.