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Magic

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Everything posted by Magic

  1. Where does it sound like it's coming from?
  2. With the way you structured that sentence and choice of words, I could almost guarantee you don't intend on entering the 5 figure engine club...
  3. Should just spray both sides and cover the vents up.
  4. If you're in WA I'll go halves with you on shipping if you go through a shop that has the same front bar I'm chasing. Concept Z Performance have what I want.
  5. Here's the video from the event:
  6. Just letting you guys know I'm selling my brand new Quiafe Diff to suit 5AT diff for $1300 ongoing now. $300-400 off buying direct! Need it gone as it's of no use to me! I now have a 3.5 FD VLSD in which will do me for now until I buy a manual spec Quaife diff. Cheers.
  7. Constant price drop down to $1300 for a brand new Quaife diff. This is about $3-400 off from buying direct. Stock or modified this will be one of the best mods you'll ever do.
  8. Still for sale. I bought another diff off a 5AT with a different final drive, and it still had the same height difference. I think it may need a manual crown ring and pinion from a 6MT, if someone can verify that and/or sell me a ring and pinion from 6MT I may hold onto it or would help the buyer of this.
  9. Yeah column/paddle same same. That makes sense seeing as Works Bell are a Jap brand. Didn't think about that. Small part of me was hoping it wasn't compatible so I could save money. lol. Cheers.
  10. Hey guys, Cars at the workshop so can't check. About to order the column shifters but they only work on manual adjustable OEM wheels, not the electronic. Can someone confirm what '03 V35 350GT's in this department, or did it come as option? I was going to order via the States to have it for Friday in case you were wondering why I can't wait to call the workshop in the morning. Here's an update of my build btw, about to start tuning stages. I still have a brand new Quaife QDF10L to suit 5AT diff for sale too. Cheers.
  11. You could simply Google yourself but: The Quaife Automatic Torque Biasing (ATB) differential enables your car to accelerate quicker and corner faster. How? By getting the power to the ground! The Quaife differential powers both drive wheels under nearly all conditions, instead of just one. With an ordinary open differential, standard on most cars, a lot of precious power is wasted during wheelspin under acceleration. This happens because the open differential shifts power to the wheel with less grip (along the path of least resistance). The Quaife, however, does just the opposite. It senses which wheel has the better grip, and biases the power to that wheel. It does this smoothly and constantly and without ever completely removing power from the other wheel. In drag-race style, straight-line acceleration runs, this results in a close to ideal 50/50 power split to both drive wheels, resulting in essentially twice the grip of an ordinary differential (they don't call open diffs "peg legs" for nothing). In cornering, while accelerating out of a turn, the Quaife biases power to the outside wheel, reducing inside-wheel spin. This allows the driver to begin accelerating earlier, exiting the corner at a higher speed. The Quaife also controls loss of traction when the front wheels are on slippery surfaces such as ice and snow or mud, providing the appropriate biased traction needed to overcome these adverse conditions. The Quaife differential provides constant and infinitely variable drive. Power is transferred automatically without the use of normal friction pads or plates seen in other limited-slip designs. The Quaife's unique design offers maximum traction, improves handling and steering, and puts the power where it is needed most. A definite advantage whether on the track or on the street. The Quaife is extremely strong and durable and since the Quaife is gear operated, it has no plates or clutches that can wear out and need costly replacement. Every Quaife differential comes with a Limited Lifetime Warranty. We are so confident in the durability of the Quaife, we back it up for life. The Quaife is great for street driving or racing. Racers don't have to put up with locking mechanisms or spools that tear the steering wheel out of their hands when cornering. Because it behaves like an open differential during ordinary driving, street drivers will have trouble telling it's there until pushing the car's limits. The Quaife has been proven in everything from compact drag racing to Pro Rally to Formula 1. The Quaife ATB Differential provides racers with such an advantage, it has become "required" equipment for a winning effort. Expand your vehicle's limits with the Quaife Differential! • It makes power work FOR you, not against you. • Get the power to both drive wheels, not just one. • Accelerate quicker. Corner faster. • Without losing driveability. • The Quaife directly replaces the stock differential inside your transmission. • Once installed, it never needs rebuilds. • Every Quaife Differential has a Limited Lifetime Warranty. Quaife Differentials require no modification to install in a Base model vehicle with open style factory diff. However if your car is equipped with a factory LSD you have two possible options to properly isntall an aftermarket Limited Slip Differential: A) Purchase a Base Model LSD and add the optiona Stub Shaft assmebly B) Purchase the Factory LSD Model LSD and DO NOT purchase the Stub Shaft assembly.
  12. Hey guys, I've just bought a Quaife Diff to suit 5AT diff to find I have a 6MT diff with 3.7 FD in my 5AT car. I've put it up for sale here if anyone wants to buy it, will consider lowering price slightly for interstate buyers and will deliver for those within 60KM of Perth CBD. The link with pics is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/422836-fs-brand-newquaife-differential-qdf10l-suit-v35350z-5at-diff/ Cheers.
  13. Brand New & unused Quaife Differential QDF10L. To suit V35 5AT Diffs. Paid $1650 landed inc stub axle flange but you won't need it for 5AT's. So will sell Quaife diff only for $1500 or super low price of $1300 if picked up/dispatched by April 5 '13. Perfect for either stock or built applications. Reason for sale: Turns out after pulling the diff a part I have a 6MT diff installed with a 3.7 Final Drive. The diff on the right of this pic: $50 extra if you require stub axle flange that's shown here.
  14. Price drop $200 FIRM for the lot. Will deliver around Perth and surrounding suburbs for $30.
  15. As per pic below. Sumitomo Tyre spec is 205/45/16. 1x Yokohama tyre also has some legal tread in it too, the rest will need to be replaced. Black wheels will need a respray. Located in Success. PM to arrange pickup. Cheers.
  16. Sounds like a cheap 'valet mode' option for those that don't have Uprev+C/C. PN-Mad I've enquired about changing maps with Uprev USA and it's only possible through the Cruise Control system. If your car doesn't come with it, it can be changed via laptop only, or installing into an aftermarket cruise control system. So I don't think changing the sports/snow mode will work.
  17. Yeah should have added don't keep driving it obviously. Because if it does drop idle and stall when it's in park you have a similar problem to thousands of other V35/G35 driver's out there, and doing simple trial and errors like cleaning throttle body, checking vacuum leaks, replacing PCV valve or all sub $50 fixes but could resolve the issue. From here if it still does it I would recommend to take it to someone who knows about these cars and common faults. If it is pulling an immobiliser code don't turn a blind eye to it, codes are there for a reason. It could honestly be a number of things and they all show the same symptoms. For me I think a magical reset of my piggyback when the car was off for 3 hours and ridiculous amounts of oil burning due to my bore clearance added fuel to the fire. You'll read that literally hundreds of owner's with this problem get so fed up with the trial and errors and back and forth with mechanics, that's its more peace of mind (but more money) to drop another second hand or new block in there and start fresh, and I'm one of them. Sounds extreme, and I guess it is. If you are taking it to a mechanic just make sure they have a background in these cards otherwise they'll want to go the rebuild route straight away.
  18. My car had this same problem, and it's actually very common if you search g35driver etc. There's many things it could be but it's interesting that it pulled an immobiliser code, first I read of that. May have misread but how is it at idle? When you pull into your driveway after it's been sputtering at low RPM from that drive, DON'T turn the car off. Let it idle and see if the revs drop and stalls. Check your oil, if it's burning a shitload of oil you have a bigger problem, but not necessarily expensive. Could be as simple as PCV valve, ECU, vacuum leak or your throttle body needing cleaning. Then it could also be misfire if you're saying it's sputtering. Uploading a video is the best thing to do. Google things like 'g35 stall' and you'll find shitloads of threads. It's unfortunately very common. My car is pretty worked and after various attempts I'm back into a 17k rebuild starting afresh (7 months down, about 2 to go). This is because I'm pedantic though and I wasn't happy with the route the old owner went with bore clearance on the block and supporting mods, so we've completely stripped the engine, bought a new built short block from America which arrived last week, and stripped that one to double check everything on that too. Assuming your car is stock, The stalling/oil burning for me would more than likely be a different reason to yours. And the causes for mine were never definitively found, just probable reasons where we then decided to start again and do it right. It is sadly a trial and error thing I'm afraid, where you need to do attempt the cheap fixes first then look at your options.
  19. Yeah. I think you can also get a 'generic' tune from Uprev directly if you send them your ECU and car mods/specs too. Just send them an email if you have any questions. They reply pretty quick.
  20. You'll probably have the same issue with Uprev unfortunately. According to their website the only authorised Pro Tuner is in WA, TMS who are doing all the work on mine since I bought it at the beginning of the year. http://uprev.com/dealers.php There may be people in Adelaide that still tune it but they're not official.
  21. Uprev is the way to go. Great for either NA and FI VQ35's. I have a Split Second piggyback ECU at the moment but going Uprev once my new built short block on the way from America arrives as my current built motor has pistons and a bore clearance that are more suited for a track car. Uprev reflashes the stock ECU and gets registered with your VIN and ECU serial number. Mine being supercharged it's kind of necessary, but I'd go Uprev if I just had simple bolt ons too. Not sure about over east but for the unit to be registered to your car and dyno tune it'd be around $1000 in WA. The cars are pretty old now so no harm in retuning it.
  22. I'm normally pro-local buying, but my cars currently in the shop getting a few things done to it so I got it express posted from Summit.
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