Roy

Well for a long while it was the fastest rwd car in SAU Vic track days. It often nibbled at the back of the top 5 overall. The Racepace GTRs generally quickest. Russman and Richo obviously lifted the bar but i was never going to strip my road car and slap aero on something that is daily driven For years a few of the S-chassis and RB25/30 folk joked that i was running a built RB25DE like i am these says. They didnt believe i was still running a std RB20 as they couldnt match my Sandown times and that place is largely a straight up drag race from 50km/h to 230km/ It got top 15 results at Winton, Sandown and Phillip Island at years of Dutton Rallies....including top 10 on occassion. That was in grids of 100 cars, Evos, STIs, Porsches etc etc Ppl that go on about them being gutless...i get that but also means you dont end up with much of the torque of bigger RBs just giving you wheel spin. It uses all its power and accelerates the car vs going sideways. May be boring but effective. As i said how can you say a car that is quicker than 997 GT3s is shit? It aint perfect...and there are better setups out there. It isnt special either as others have done the same turbo setup and got the same result. Oh...the JMS Onvia made good power but was running a 12cm housing off a rotary...not the correct 8cm housing do is a poor example Thats the trick to a good RB20 dont be a JMS and usecwrong buts and bobs because they are cheap. Use a good quality 80mm exhaust and good 60ox300x65mm ic. Run a proper ECU tuned for your car....its not rocket science but most RB20s are in the cheaper end of the Skyline world and the quality of the mods reflect that...no better example being the RB25 turbo upgrade which i get is economical but ends up not being overly different to my TD06 on the street with regards to power and drivability at 3,500 and is left for dead from 4,200rpm Thats the trick really...get a turbo eith a 60-70mm compressor and a turbine housing that reflects the fact its a small pot 6 cylinder and just use the 8,000rpm Nissan gave you. Hell Nissan gave you a 4.3 diff for a reason...i had a 4.6 diff i was going to install but never did...i reckon it would be the best $500 upgrade going...after all its the road speed where you make power that is important...not rpm

Each to their own. But I give no fux about driving like a retard on the street but I can tell you a 12.9 qtr mile car walked off the line with a 2.3 60ft is never going to be "shit" as you say. A track car with good drive off corners that is just simply quick everywhere is ...surprise surprise its going to be a very quick street car Take Winton that has a load of slow 60km/h corners and I still take them in 3rd. Its even quicker if I rape it in 2nd but I am more about circulating and enjoying it and not raping the car that is largely std and drive it in a manner that reflects my hip pocket Like I said it aint perfect...if you want a street car that drives like it has an LS and allows you to take corners in 4th when it is well within the mental faculty of the driver to actually grab a gear that puts revs at 3,600rpm vs 2,400rpm to drive out of the corner then there are going to be very few instances where a well sorted RB20 is going to leave you wanting. The car makes 200rwkws at about 4,200rpm....how the hell isnt that a quick, fun street car? For me it is. Maybe not for everyone....but if you try to frame the discussion around facts and not...I spent 4k on a 200rwkws RB25 transplant so it has to be awesome because I like it....even though my car is a slow sack of shit LOL, enoough 16yr old punk smack talk in my post to make me right GTSBoy...what is your frame of reference for an RB20? Have you actually owned/driven one with a well sorted setup? I recall reading you own an RB25 powered R32...what was your starting point and where are you are with it?

They are a mega impressive camera. Give them 24 months and GoPro and anyone else that wants to compete will have to offer an equivelant. Meanwhile. I just loaded up on spares for my RadCam....at least I know it in and out

Yeh RB20s are hopeless 260rwkws reliable track car on 98, 270 on 100. 306 on E85. It aint perfect and you can of course do better. But BS to them being rubbish when a completely std engine with bolt ons can bag you the same lap time as 997 GT3s around Victorian tracks!

Sux to be Russian

So Nistune is good with big injectors? A mate had trouble with his 330rwkw SR setup and tuner kept blaming Nistune and the 2000cc injectors (think they were 2000s) No idea if it was fact or just blaming as it was the easiest escape goat. He gave up on cars and being raped by all the Sydney experts so sold the car.

You will love it. Epic event that a car race breaks out in the middle of

I was...now i am only a small chance. Combination if nobody else interested as was only going to be and one mate plus a 3rd who would be working. Also the hiccup is i am going to Monoco so trying to save some cash and hoping to do Le Mans next year. Will see how the year pans out but may do Fuji

Bumpage

Any feedback yet? I need a new camera and dont have many pennies

The car is on blocks still So who knows... I am mainly doing it for strength as the 32 cradle had cracks and long term with the new engine thicker shafts isnt a bad thing. Meant new shocks and diff which sux but everything is new do will be mega. Running GKtech offset diff bushes I dont think the rear is any wider. I think the wider track is from the offset and width of wheels...but would have to check again The mount is neat. I run their gear in my Cossie and gets the job done

So whilst working my way through the suspension re-bushing/bearing everything that could come out I decided to get carried away with painting stuff. Partly so that all teh light colours will show up oil and partly so I could strip any parts I was re-using and inspect for cracks etc. And partly that it will be nice for the car to be clean and neat for the frist 6 months that its back on the road Got some chrome moly pipe cut and threaded to the length I needed for my new front LCAs and had them coated before painting them Going to the R33 GTR rear end meant I had to get a new diff so went for a Nismo GT Pro 1.5 and grabbed a Trust diff cover to give it an extra bit of volume in attempt to keep the rear end consistant over 10-15 lap sessions without going for a diff cooler. Who knows if the extra volume actually makes a difference, a Trust bit is cool all the same. And with the rear cradle about to be all bolted back together and into the car I have the new gearbox cross member to allow me to throw the RB25 box in after givign away my RB20 box to a mate with a 260rwkw SR20.

So 2015 was largely a write off. Started a new job where they work you like a $2 pole dancer and combined with putting myself on a tight budget of $500 a month means things move very slowly But, finally got to a point where the new rear end has been fully refurbished, new shocks rebuilt by Racepace and now just need new springs. Custom tops that will heopfully be mega quiet for a loooong time. Got the new diff, suspension arms, fuel system etc all sorted now. Problem is I lost a lot of motivation last year when I sold my T67 setup so have now got my new twins and close to getting all the bits I need to get it all bolted up to Kinda surprise. Here are some pics of the retarded amount of hours I have spent welding, painting, pressuing bushes and bearings in the hope that the car will drive like new when it finally gets back on the road. So the reason why I binned the old R32 cradle. After years of flogging around tracks it gave up the ghost So when sorting the BCNR33 GTR rear end I decided to gusset it all up So after welding it up I paint stripped the whole cradle, wire brushed it and went a little bling with the silver