LotusGTR

Guys, I need a set of these for my R32 GTR. Car is used 50 / 50 street sprint but not seriously / heavily tracked. I guess there are nolathane replacements that are better than the OEM rubbers? I note you can get adjustable ones? Recommended? Thanks.

Shaun, I've checked RHD's web this morning and they are quoting $420AUD landed for a new master cylinder........Coincidental number huh? When did you get the $150US price?

Troy. Not sure if I follow. You say you would not run adjustables, but then say you do? Sorry, might be missing something here.....?

Right. So on a track that is hard on brakes, with slightly less invested than my set up, you've had good results. Others seem to be saying they've had great results with a slightly modified std set up too, so perhaps I need to persist. Thanks for your input.

Just preparing myself for an eventual brake upgrade on the 32 GTR. So I'm looking to divest myself of 16 & 17 inch rims and looking to accumulate some 18s....(which in its self might be a discussion). For now I'd like to know if these rims have good brake clearances? e.g. 355mm rotors? I saw some TE37s on the weekend that were 18s and they cleared some Alcons about that size, so wondering if they have more caliper clearance than the OEM R34 GTR rim or if they are similar. Anyone with experience of these rims with this size of brake? Thanks.

Cheers for that.

Another thought, I still have some DS2500 pads and I'd be interested to see how these perform and whether it addresses the vibration problem. I won't be able to replicate the problem on the street so need some easy to get to / affordable track time to check out the new pads. Calder / Sandown? Any thoughts on how to most easily get some track time? p.s. Winton = too far at the moment.

Well I went to Phillip Island on Friday and had a ball but the brakes were shite. Set up was: Brake booster brace Castrol SRF Braided lines RDA slotted rotors QFM K750 pads As soon as they got hot, they vibrated to buggery, so I had to drive slow for the day (2.01). Rotors are not warped as when they were cool they were fine. Someone came up with the idea that the pads were depositing on the rotors when they were hot???? causing them to vibrate? Wheels are balanced, all suspension and brakes bolted up how they should be. Small play in upper control arms. When I say hot, we all know how relatively easy PI is on brakes, and really I never stomped on them as I just couldn't. Only really stood on them a bit at Honda, but even then it was far from full pedal. Fastest on day was a R33 GTR running massive Alcons which I now envy......Very frustrating not being able to use the brakes to their full extent. I switched out the fronts and went slow and sideways, though, so all was not lost. p.s. Rowdy, how could you advocate street tyres for the track. They're totally inadequate.

Yeah, please advise where you got that done. Cheers.

Am I right in saying that if I increase the piston area by upgrading calipers then a larger diameter master might be required or preferable?

Does anyone have an answer to the question of whether there is an alternative to OEM that is better? I to suspect i have a leaking master so would like to know.

As per the title. Located in Melbourne. No gutter rash please and in good condition only. Cheers.

Oh yeah. Go a Golf GTI as your daily. $40k OTR. add $2k for a big power and torque upgrade to 190kw and 410NM. You get DSG which is effectively what you get on the R35 GTR and is the future in GB technology (they are the tits). Totally reliable, totally practical, good residuals, great build quality, great interior, good experience at the dealers. Then also get an R32/33/34 GTR of choice as your sports car for the same money as a hotted up Falcon. Only drawback is front drive and a jiggly ride but otherwise a fantastic option in my opinion. The motoring press call them the 911 of hot hatches..... Just another option. Oh yeah 8.5l/100 and relatively cheap to insure

Well I believe it all comes down to personal preferences. I personally drove my R32 GTR daily for 9 months and then jumped into a knackered old Commadore as a daily and the relief I felt was enormous. I was so over the ride, the seats, the lowness, the temptation to wring its neck, the noise etc etc. Now, the Commy only lasted a short while and I'm lucky enough to have a Golf GTI as a daily, but I'd never go back, much as I love her to death, to my GTR as a daily. p.s. I'm old so that may account for my opinion.

GTR. Late model R32 so pull type. Mine actually works but has a few bad habits. It was new 6 months ago. Comes with transfer case. I'm in SE Melb too.

I got one.

If not mate, you can buy my std ECU from me and give that a go. Let me know if that's a road you want to go down.

I got my mechanic to drive it home, keep it over night and then drive to work. I guess you've got to trust your mechanic.

Sounds very similar to n AFM issue I had. I replaced the AFM and all was OK again......Probably not much help to you as you've sort of tried that.

I'm no expert but can tell you from personal experience it will not only be the power you generate that will crumble your internals, but also the age and condition of your bearings, how much oil pressure your engine is making, whether you're running an oil cooler. My engine shat its bearings running 200RWKW and the engine wasn't all that bad prior to going to the track. Personally I find the figures quoted in the UK thread unbelievable. My guess would be at some of those higher numbers a 'standard internals' 100,000km GTR engine will be a grenade.

OK, so become a member and then you get to see the hidden forums? I've stuck with the single and for now it seems happy enough with a new clutch plate as a bandaid fix. I'm still pretty sus on multis, as per your feedback.

Gary, when is the next GB for R32 GTR? Cheers.

Loved your work on the 'Legacy' of the Black Widow thread.

Yes I should

Well yes and no. I'm not some pauper teenager (no offense, I have been there) who can't afford to do things properly. I'm well aware of the basic operation of a clutch. The current single has never slipped so i have no issue with the clamping force specifically, other than to wonder if the clutch was generally getting out of its depth. The clutch plate was worn and shown signs of having been very hot and given I'm not dumping it all the time I'd presumed was on the limit of what it could provide. Multiplate clutches (as I'm sure you're aware) have many draw backs in relation to how nice they are to use and I was not going to invest $2k into something that ultimately would give me the shits, hence canvassing opinion. I've learned there is quite a large difference of opinion on how multis are to use and also a multitude of products available. I'm happy I've made the right decision for me based on feedback from lots of people. As for the bloke who wrote '3 pages', I'm grateful to him, but I'll assume he wanted to as it was entirely his decision to do so. Same for you, me and everyone else that craps on, on this forum. We do it because we like it.