gts4diehard

nissan have the tierods here in brisbane for $75, but it is not like the front steering. the flexible part of the joint that connects to the hubs is pressed into the hub. the actual steering arm which is connected to the rack directly (with the ball-joint) is about $110 each - they are bloody tight, you need a pair of 'Big' spanners and undo each end at the same time, see the manual.

Hi , i used some in my GTS4 and it improved things a little- its not a miracle gearbox fixer, a bit smoother gear change when car is cooler. Dont know if it has helped those 7k gear changes, maybe I 've improved my technique a little too. My car does not jump out of gear, I think the silvia gearbox has problems that are not related to additives.

Just wondering if anyone went out to the racing over the weekend and if there were any photos? saw that in one of the classes racing included a DIablo, few F 360 ferraris, Porsche RSR's and numerous GT3's. Would have loved to have gone out, but as usual something always comes up.

was planning to sell it, and thought going to the strictest place would show how good car was. having 2nd thoughts yet again so will see how I go. just trying to resist the temptation to offload serious $$ on the car or get a more family oriented car as it is getting a little cramped in the back with 2 baby seats in there...

presume you mean the idler tensioner for the cambelt, there are two tensioners, one spring loaded and the other fixed. It keeps the cambelt tight. If it breaks - apparently the bolt can break, I suppose that could happen if tensioner bearing seized - your pistons will get to know your valves very well! = new engine or rebuild. Is there a squealing/abnormal whirring sound noise coming from the cambelt area in engine bay? can mean the bearings on its way out. should cost around $160 for both tensioners, one is the same as RB30 - plus fitting, if your cambelt is nearing the end say 80,000 kms then do it as well, no point pulling everything apart to do it in a years time.

hi, it sounds a bit worse than it should be. When the VLs came out in NZ you had a choice of RB20E or RB30E, apparently the RB30 was more economical because you didnt have to thrash it to get any decent performance out of it. So it may not get as good as you would think for a non-turbo. My Turbo GTS4 gets about 350-400 around town on a tank.

I think the list of what will fail your car depends on where you go. I took mine to RACQ and they picked on my care severely, and the only mod it has is a 3 inch 'quiet' exhaust. Exhaust passed without any problems. They picked on my aircon becasuse it didnt demist -they couldnt figure it out!, even tho I used it car to get to test. Minor stuff they picked on. No oil leaks at all, this means any oil that you spilt in oil changes or has crept down the block over 15 yr needs to be gone! bonnet stay clip number plates slightly bent to fit into bumpers - definite no-no with racq, got new plates and just packed out the front one with a couple of bushes basically everything the car comes with has to work!

hey i've seen some at a local yard in springwood on the service lane just south of the toyota and mitsi dealers(on the same side) , sorry cant remember the yards name. they also had a stack of r34's for sale a couple of weeks back plus a few stageas. they were about $14k, looked ok but not perfect.

just thought i'd ask if anyone has tried this. Seems that the CA18 is quite a bullet proof engine and that this would be an easy way of boosting the capacity. I have a friend who had a CA18DET rebuilt which is putting out an easy 200kw at the wheels on around 15 psi on a motor built to take 30 psi and he mentioned this as an option, unfortunately he found out about ca20 after he started his rebuild.

hi, i've an r32 and it had the occasional left hand headlight problem. These days the low beam is ok, but the parker wont come on sometimes. I find if i give the light a tap on the lens it comes on, havent been bothered to fix it properly but probably just a connection somewhere that needs a clean with contact cleaner. try disconnecting the plugs to your lights a few times just to get rid of the oxidation that occurss to the pins in the plugs. It can sometime be as simple as that.

hi, ive got the noltec subframe bushes( not pineapples) in my car and I dont notice any increase in road noise/ harshness at all. I also have new rear rack and hub bushes(nissan rubber) - done after subframe bushes fitted - so everything is pretty much new and tight and still dont feel any harshness at all. The car really holds the line well in the rear now, more noticeable improvement after doing rear rack and hub bushes than that felt when the subframe bushes were fitted first. Feels more positive on the track also, showing up the failings of my tyres as they do the squirming under load rather than the old subframe bushes that wiggled the car around corners! A mate has noltec subframe bushes in his 32 GTR and I havent noticed any change in noise/ harshness.

hi, the R32 GTS4 diff ratios are RC43, 4.3 so they 'should' work. I have measured up a lot of stuff off my GTS4 against a friends R32 GTR which is the same month/year as my GTS4 and they share most of the bits(obviously dif ratios (and lsd type) and gearbox ratios are different, driveshafts are same diameter(fronts) swaybars, suspension links and bushes are same even checked on the Fast systems and they use same part numbers. that part matching module in fast is really cool, seeing what cars use the same parts as the skylines! p.s. I always thought the Stageas were real close to the Skylines, obviously they are not designed for the same market and it makes no real sense building a family 'sports' wagon with components that can handle massive HP upgrades. The jap prices I have seen for very new Stageas always seemed too cheap to me for a car that I thought was basically a 'Skyline without a boot'. I suppose if you want a tough as nails stagea Nissan will happily point you in the direction of a 260 RS.

I think a nice tip looks good, especially when you can see that huge 3 iinch exhaust going under the rear axle. I have a Nismo 3 inch cat back with 4 inch tip which sounds good - maybe on the quiet side tho. I think the quiet exhaust saved me a good ticket on one occasion as well as having tyres that dont squeal! Three lane 70 km zone. me in left lane, van in middle lane and cop in righthand lane (I didnt know he was there). I decided to do a good launch and took off like a rocket. Next thing I look in the rear view to see a copper following nice and close as I turned off onto a 60km road. Needless to say they pulled me over -flashing lights and sirens in front of about 50 cars, asked me how fast I was going, admitted to the speed - didnt want to get caught lying. Quote from copper in falcon " you left us for dead at the lights mate"...lol... when was the last time a falcon kept up with a skyline which has done a 5K launch - especially when you didnt even know the car was revving for a launch!, why were you speeding? 'sorry, just accelerated a little too hard', ' wont happen again sir' and got let off with a warning... so quiet exhausts are not so bad...

hi, the fans on the r32 and r31 are quite different, well on my cars they are. the one on the 31 has straight blades where the 32's are curved ones- not sure on number of blades. i bought a new plastic fan for my r31 about 3 yrs ago and I thinks itwas about $40-50 from nissan.

no dont burn them out, just get a holesaw and a good drill. cut from top and bottom. 5 mins max each bush and no filthy smoke. if bush gets too hot just work on others, - I used one of those $15 cheap drills from crazy clarks...lol. knock the bush insides' out with a hammer and something to punch out with. then use hacksaw to cut out outer case ( only 1 mm thick), just be careful not to cut subframe mount. more than likely the bush 'holes' will not be perfectly round and will make putting the bushes in a little difficult. I used a socket and a hammer ( I rang noltec and talked to their tech guys and they said it was ok to tap in) to push it in- if bush holes are not perfectly round I would suggest a press. Trade Tools – cost $25, a 2 –7/16 which fitted quite well, it need a little filing inside about 7 mm deep to make socket fit better over urethane. I installed noltec bushes for about $190 a set of 4. good luck.

the unit with the electric motor bolted on to it. on the passengers side of the vehicle.

sorry havent checked thread. Auto tech - (07) 5529 2313 Labrador, gold coast.

The wiseco catalogue shows some of the toyota pistons they do, not sure of pin location but maybe worth checking out, from the american site. got some prices in us $$ from http://www.pistons-online.com/sport.asp?ma...ta&st=48&end=48, prices for piston kit i.e. rings too. they have gtr pistons for $870 K551M88 (88mm) celica 2ZZ (also Pontiac Vibe) K569M82 82.00 / 3.228 both 20 mm pins $580 K565M82 82.00 / 3.228 Celica/MR2 4AG K533M82 82.00 / 3.228 .040 (18mm pin) $580 K505M82 82.00 / 3.228 .040 (19 mm pin) $580 K506M82 82.00 / 3.228 .040 (20 mm pin) $580

hi, check out the tomei site, it gives you all the info, except you need their pisotns of course... http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...compengine.html 　 　

give gavin wood a ring at autotech, labrador - gold coast - qld. I once saw him about getting it done, he knows someone on gold coast who can do it. Stephen

hi, just a quick question. Did they disconnect the hoses from the transfer box? your 4wd system may need bleeding (the resoivoir is in the boot on rhs, check the level when ignition is on as pump primes the pressure in the pipe and fluid level drops) - it is easy to do, just check the gtr manual. Basically involves using the attessa pump to pump fluid thru to transfer box to build up pressure and bleed out air bubbles. also check the fluid in the transfer case, the actual fluid that lubricates the clutch packs that transfer power to the front driveshaft and then to the front wheels. there are two filler points on side of the gearbox, one is for gearbox oil - eg. castrol vmx 80 from memory and the other for transfer box. on level surface the oil should be level with the bottom edge of filler hole, use finger to check, I think from memory you can use the a 1/2 inch power bar to fit into filler bolt to undo it. depending on the power you have ( i.e. lots above std) or how hard you are launching if the transfer is not working properly then you may actually be spinning your new clutch with all the power being transmitted to the rear wheels and none going to the front wheels as it was designed to be. I'm not sure about LSD'd but i dont think a worn lsd will feel like a slipping clutch... maybe someone else can provide an answer. Stephen

hi, The 'NFM010 Parts Master Book' looks really good as it will tell you the other cars that your R32 part is the same as. meaning you can go somewhere and ask for say a hmm..'silvia' part rather than a gtr one without getting ripped! anyone... Stephen

My r32 does the same occasionally and also then runs perfectly when driving, there are so many sensors on this engine, that after 15 years could be running less than a 100 % - it could be a number of individual causes or a combination. My frineds r32 has always done it, and now he has after market ocmputer, hi-flow turbo & exhaust, fuel pump, boost controller, dyno tune and it still does it. But I dont think he has changed his water temp sensors or any of the others. My car idles perfectly most of the time then some times like crap, all it takes is a quick dab on accelerator then it will rise to about 1500 rpm then drop down to a nice smooth idle. basically if everything else is going ok then dont worry about it. I think most people just expect these cars to run perfectly after 15 years, which is unrealistic, especially considering the temps that all the sensors are exposed to under the r 32 bonnet, i.e. my car runs a perfect temp - always mid of gauge no matter what, but on a hot day and an hours driving you cannot even hold the bonnet support rod! I can remember when I had a non fuel injected car(1970's Capri) that I was just glad it started on a cold morning, it was a pig until it warmed up, and when it was a really hot day and car was hot you would get hot- start probs due to fuel vaporising in carb/manifold! Cars have come a long way in that time but Heat affects all of us - mechanical and biological... my own personal suspicion is that the engine temp sensor is not giving the right temp reading when engine starts, so it runs rough, but it could be all the other things people mentioned as well. if you fix it let us know... as there are a lot of suspects in the engine bay.

FS5R30A is thegrearbox, has the same number as my r32 gts4 and r32 gtr RC41 is the front and rear diff ratios = 4.111... I 'm pretty sure sorry cant help with the rest of your q yet... Stephen

thanks wink Stephen