NWR31

no he would be talking when wheels off the ground, cuppas is right, you are wrong. cheers

that is interesting to know, but its a r32/silvertop. thanks for that

from what you said the old turbo comp wheel didnt break apart so that shouldnt have blocked up the cooler. oil from the old turbo can block it up if seals went. where does your boost gauge get its pressure signal from? before the cooler or after? no its not possible for the turbine/exhaust wheel to spin on the shaft, but it is possible for the comp wheel if not torqued/assembled correctly to spin on the shaft.

yeah was gunna say the turbine looks bigger as well, definatley not stock.

the comp wheel doesnt look stock

yeah thats what ive just read, cant understand why he's saying i dont need em. i might have to reconsider buying them cause i dont want to root around wiring in resistors & the resistor pack might be hard to find or expensive.. thanks

btw my fc is actually a rb26/gtr fc wired to suit my rb20. would that make it more compatible with the gtr injectors & much less likely to fry the fc?? ok ive done a lot of searching & it seems even with the rb26 fc i do need a resistor pack to run gtr squirters...

this pfc was tuned for gtr injectors/z32 which will be the same mods as me. i know it still wont be safe to drive on but should be in the ballpark, i also have a good wideband gauge installed to check afr's. anyway im more worried about frying my fc if i install these gtr injectors. cheers

im getting some gtr injectors but ive been told they will work with no other mods & that i dont need a resistor pack? i cant see how this is this possible, or am i wrong? ok i just found this thread which sorta explains that you can run them without the resistor pack but it might fry my power fc! i cant risk that...help :| http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...l=gtr+injectors

sorry to hear that, did you check/try to tighten the comp wheel while you had the dump off?

no, what i mean is it might not start spinning on the shaft until the turbine/shaft is under load. to be able to tighten the nut you will need to remove the dump, like i said this is just a suggestion to what might be wrong, hopefully its something easier.

he doesnt mean road wheels

edit: just found the tute by cubes (maybe add it to the members list of tute threads?) im searching for a install of a z32 into a r32. is it right that r32 wiring will be the same as the r33s1 wiring in this tute, cause i believe r33s1 afm is the same as a r32???

i still think its possible (unlikely i know) that it could be the compressor nut tension. it could be loose enough that at idle & free rev it doesnt spin on the shaft but when the turbine really gets moving the comp wheel could spin/slow down & not create boost. im not saying thats yur problem but it is possible i believe. good luck

compressor wheel nut not torqued up enough?

ok i installed the power fc i bought from Rad32 & it all seems to work fine. it still has his tune on it i believe, which basically is for gtr injectors & z32 afm i am still on stock for now. my car started & ran but the idle was very low (almost stalling) & i was able to rev it up a few thousand revs. so m just asking for verification that all is normal. im sure it is but just want to check this is what people would expect? also when i check the sensors/inputs on the commander is there any thing i should look for? thanks edit: btw i wont be driving on this ecu until i get a afm

even tho i own/run my own business i will be voting for carps/alp again

thanks Ash, i havent been in there for ages, will have a look on the way home 2nite cheers

i am sor & have looked in the carousel shop & tbh i didnt see anything of quality. when i get time i will have a look in the shops reccomended above cheers

sure, 16.5hp

does he sell/stock performance/race gear?

yeah ive been using a aem gauge for nearly a year now, been perfect from day 1. got it from quantum racing in qld

that all sounds fine, but if you have the smaller compressor wheel its definately not a rb25. its very easy to remove the cop cover to check cheers

im sure there are easier ways, but if you unbolt the compressor cover & measure the ouside diameter of the comp wheel that will give you a clue. rb25 is definately 67mm rb20 is about 58 or 60mm it could still be a high flowed rb20 turbo tho, so the above is only true if its an original turbo cheers

thanks a lot for the info, sounds like i should just ignore what little they show on their websites. cheers