RubyRS4

Price? And, its a long shot but, any chance you got an inlet manifold for R33?

WTB urgent: R33 inlet manifold. Really only need the bottom plenum section bolting to the head, but if you can't separate we'll work something out. PM me

If Nightcrawler is going, he can swing past and pick me up on the way

Back on the net peeps. Sorry for the MIA, long story short, had internet issues and been doing what I can when I can. Also been working my ass off with my POErsonal Trainer business and studies and a few things at home. I might even spill the beans on what has taken place of the Stagea shortly

Awesome! In other news, I've passed my Personal Trainer workshop/exam which ran over Saturday and Sunday. 2 days of full on revision, screening, testing and programming. Another 2 more months then I'll be a qualified Master Trainer. My current qualifications means that I can walk into a gym, and if I tell you you're doing it wrong ... then you are! ... but I'm feeling it today. The exams were physically and mentally draining.

RB25 turbo in good-to-excellent condition. Minimal shaft play if any ... and exhaust manifold to it too. Budget of no more than $300. PM me if you have a turbo. Need one ASAP.

Gosh, haven't been to Wasteland much these days. How y'all doin? This is where all my spare time has been going lately 102m2 house extension, and I'm doing most of the work myself. Oh and been toying with a dirty Bluebird. Suspension and brake upgrade anyone?

R33 loom, wiring and plug that goes to the driver's side bar indicator. Asap. I need the wiring from inside the engine bay to the indicator right up to the globe, as I need to replace a hack job on a 33. Please PM me if you have this.

Heslo, PMed you a list of recent payments

Still got turbo? I've got a mate in urgent need of one. Money ready to go. The used turbo was never smokey or losing oil? Oh, would you also post to Adelaide (at my expense)? Ruby

Well, spent all night preparing the floor footings to my house extension for the concrete pour this morning. Finally took a snooze at 12 noon today nearly awake for 36 hours for a 4 hour snooze. Yeah I feel like crap Body is killing me from all the extra digging. Big thanks to Matty Sherlock for putting in some time to help until 2am in the morning And on a sad note, yes I've sold my Stagea. Makes no sense to everyone I'm sure, but there are good reasons and she'll be replaced in the coming months, with something hopefully just as worthy.

Hey bud, I'd be more than happy to help you out with your car. And can show you how to do it, so you learn a thing or two. How many kms on motor? I'll reply to your PM with my number and you can give me a call. Ruby

Yeah, got my eye on a bellmouth, and a long split pipe. See what happens now Luke, when can I get

Would you do the dump pipe + post to adelaide for $150? Not trying to lowball, thats genuinely my budget.

I am also watching this on ebay ... but can I make you an offer now for it? PM sent

Problem is that all of the dump pipes I see for sale are 2.5" or they don't say but look 2.5"

Quick question ... need to replace my dump pipe off the turbo on my Neo RB25. Would a 2.5" split dump pipe strangle any power, or should I go 3" split dump pipe? I currently run a 3" bellmouth, but looking for a change.

I tackled this job because I like to get my hands dirty and try what no one else has tried. I've undertaken many "fruitless exercises" and successful mods in my time, including a supercharged SR20DE powered 200B, and will continue to do so for as long as cars interest me. There will always be an easier option ... but then there is always the left-field option. Mod on Compared to the stock swaybar, the GTR bar would be better for the 'rolling' weight of the stagea body. Whiteline would be better still I admit, so I'm not ruling out another upgrade in the future. I'm never afraid to spend money where it is best deserved. I've purchased new 3076 and many brand name parts. But as i said above, I like to have a crack at things myself. At the end of the day, it beats forcing the bar on and having the bushes at wrong angles to the bar, causing premature failure/wear.

Ooo ... lucky she didn't look over my shoulder to see that comment

For Sale: 11yo thoroughbred horse (mare). Beautiful horse thats been vaccinated, wormed and shoed. Come with saddle, rugs, halter and lead. Currently stabled at Globe Derby. Thoroughbreds of this age generally seel for around $1.5K-2K. Not suitable for beginners. $1,000 firm

Don't want to, but I'm going to .... FOR SALE: C34 Stagea RS4 Black Stagea with under 100,000kms on the clock (100,000kms service already done). Too many mods to list. 252kw @ the wheels @ 16psi reliable via professional tune. Quick summary: Neo motor Garrett 3076 turbo Garrett braided line kit Turbosmart T boost controller Nissan Z32 AFM Nistune ECU with professional tune Walbro fuel pump 550cc injectors Adjustable cam gear 3 inch high flow zorst with 5zigen end can HKS pod filter Greddy catch can 52mm alloy radiator with twin thermo fans on relay Delta fin FMIC kit with t-bolt clamps throughout Oil cooler/relocator kit with braided lines ISC N1 coilovers on 12/10 springs GTR sway bars Dolphin bodykit Factory Momo steering wheel CF look dash surrounds A/F gauge, boost gauge (and oil temp and water temp gauges yet to fit) 17" BBS mags with new tyres R34 brake conversion at all corners Adjustable suspension and camber arms GTR manual 5 speed conversion with Nismo HD clutch kit Tow bar rated to 1200kg professionally fitted Polishing to engine bay, always well maintained JVC double din DVD player OA 6.5" splits and amp JVC subbox and amp (126dBA with this combo) Regularly at shows ... real head turner. Too much to list. Absolutely no time wasters. All the work is done for 250kw reliably. Regretful sale ... serious buyers only, or I'll just keep her. $15,000 firm. (purhcased 4 years ago for $19K and spent well over $10K on her over the years) PM me for further details and EOI.

BTW a new set of link rod bushes are going on too smarty pants I threw things on for photographic purposes. Its all painted up now for looks, and I'm changing all the bushes for new.

Ah, some constructive input. I like to see that. You make some very good points, and clearly you've got a background in metals and worth listening to. The 6mm mounting plate is basically sitting between the chassis and the sway bar mount, and in this position it will take an upwards compression force, not any shear forces which will threaten the integrity of the bolt or its welds. The bolt (or studs I should say) is predominantly there to seat the sway bar bush in place, and not deal with any shear forces. The engineer who welded this up is close to 60yo and has been welding for over 40 years, so I'm very comfortable with what he has done and the penetration he achieved with the welds ... far, far better than what I can do. Not dismissing the option of using a 10-12mm plate and tapping the holes to accept a stud. Will certainly try that also if we feel like doing a 'version 2'. However, we beleive what we've done is more than sufficient. Got to ask, why would you think the arm of the sway bar would take "twisting force" as we had discussed the different forces that would be exerted upon the arm adaptor. I know the sway bar itself is designed to resist/minimise twisting and hence body roll of the wagon. The arm of the bar itself flattens down to some 6mm to the mounting point, and we decided to go bigger with 8mm. He had believed that an option like heating the bar to extend the 'reach' of the arms would be what would weaken the bar. I will be keeping an eagle eye on it. And given some valid points you've made, I'll give it some 'lock wire' to prevent it from dragging on the road in the event that it does break. However, we are quite confident that it won't. I respect the comments you've made above, but I have to disagree with you on the arm mounts. the plate is 8mm thick providing a 25mm offset, so we don't believe it offers any form of stress to itself or to the sway bar arm beyond its capabilities. I don't beleive the extra 25mm offset/length will pose any leverage contributing to any weakness to the sway bar. Thoughts? Happy to chat to you more a bit indepth about this if you like. If it results in a far better design, I'm happy to try it.

Now that you've started this thread, you wanna post up a link to the thread you found your answer too.

Did you read the description or just look at the photos only. Besides, that image was taken before I tightened up the fittings for the purpose of taking photos. This idea was all worked out with an engineer over the week. 8mm thick plate with a 25mm offset for the mounting means there is virtually no 'soak' you speak of. Engineer mentioned 6mm thick plate, but we went with 8mm just to be certain. The width of the sway bar end matches the offset, so there is no chance of any 'leverage' against the high tensile fittings used ... creating any 'soak' whatsoever. Engineer is happy, I'm happy.