R33-RB26DETT

Hi there, I'm after an R33 GTR N1 vent AND an R33 GTR N1 lip which sits on the top of the bonnet. Please PM me with details...

Thanks for all the responses guys - i'm going to get a third opinion by a one of the specialists recommended. I'm tossing up between tyrepower ringwood or racepace I'll post back results here once done.

Need 1 replacement r33 gtr afm please pm me if you have any..

Okay, so i service my car every 3,000km. Does that mean that i'm safe not to bother draining my oil cooler? So it sounds like it's the same old process for me then. 1. Remove sump plug 2. Drain oil from sump 3. Change oil filter 4. Re-insert sump plug 5. Add 6 litres of oil I was worried that you needed to do some extra step to make sure that no air gaps where in the system from the oil cooler..?

34GeeTeeTee - I've found my orginal wheel alignment i got done at Bob Jane which was really bad service. They recommended i replace my front right tie rod end - which i did. Pedders never gave me any alignment print outs. Terry_GT-R34 What brand tyres? - Kuhmo Ku36 (brand new) Tyre pressure is? - 32psi No crack in any rims? - They are brand new Work Emotion XD9's Suspension bushes and arms were checked by Pedders? I'd assume so, but can't confirm. I know that the previous own put new Polyurethane Bushes before i bought it last year. Crappy roads where you live? I'm in Malvern, so i go down high st every day to work, high st isn't that bad. Try another SAUer's rims for a run perhaps? Sure, if someone is willing to offer near Malvern. LOLWUT - Well my wheels are brand new so i'm not sure if i'd need to get them balanced. GTR-34A - Like i said they're brand new tyres Kuhmo KU36 18/30/265 all round, so i don't think that tyre age should be an issue. Checkbuzz - I though Pedders were reputable? But maybe not, i'd prefer to go somewhere that's open on Saturdays so i don't have to take time off work.. The things i didn't like about pedders were that they didn't seem to know much about Jap cars, i even had to order my own tie rod ends from Nissan since they said they couldn't find any. lol MrStabby - I don't know much about reading Wheel alignment results but maybe you can take a look at my results and see if i need more adjustment of my castor. luke GTR - This is what i thought, but the thing that really pisses me off is that my mums Camry handles better in a straight line on normal bumpy roads like High St! Plus it feels unsafe, and jumps around a lot. Duncan - Hmm okay, maybe i do just need to live with it, but it's just doesn't feel right that i paid 4k for new tyes and rims and now my car handles worse on normal roads. It does however handle much better around corners and at high speeds on a straight road. Pezhead - It's got Apexi coil overs, and slightly lowered, probably only about 10mm - It's barely even noticeable over stock height. Also, not sure if this has anything to do with my problem, but on full right lock when i'm parking i can hear the tyre rubbing against my inner guard lining. I think that it must have been taken out at some stage and not put back in properly because it's missing some of the clips. Keen to hear any more thoughts and suggestions, maybe i should try taking it to another more reputable shop?

I've had a wheel alignment done 3 times. lol That's how i found out my tie rod was worn, which i've replaced. Any other ideas? Does anyone else run fat tyres that has this issue on normal roads?

Cool thanks, i'll buy 2 x 5 litre bottles then. Do you have to be careful with how to you drain the oil so that you don't get air bubbles in the system when you've got an oil cooler?

So i upgraded to bigger 10" rims and 265 tyres and now on normal residential roads my car handles much worse. However in the mountains cornering it handles much better also on the freeway it does feel better. The problem is that my car now handles like absolute crap on normal bumpy roads. It's hard to describe but kind of feels like it's 'tram tracking' from what i've researched on here. It's kind of scary becuase it's hard to keep straight sometimes. I've already taken it to pedders and replaced the power steering rack, rack ends and tie rod ends. He thought that by fixing these things that it would improve the handling on normal roads, but it's still pretty much the same. Is this the price you pay for having such fat tyres? If i don't like it should I just go back to my original rims and tyres? I really don't want to though. Can anyone please help as to what I can try to do to fix this? Or is this just the way that it has to be when upgrading to bigger tyres?

I'm going to services my GTR this weekend, but was wondering how much extra oil do you need if you've got an oil cooler? I've got a HKS oil cooler, i'm guessing it will need an extra litre or so of oil right? So probably 6 litres?

I just bought the below steering rack for my r33 gtr: The rack rods have been cut off as can be seen in the below picture: I have two questions. 1. Do i just need to buy new steering rack rod ends? Like the one listed below: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-RACK-Tie-Rod-End-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-95-98-4WD-4X4-/180829991552?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1a4eb280#ht_2459wt_1037 2. Is it difficult to install the new rack ends? Do i just need a ball join separator?

Pretty sure they are different mate, but thanks. I need one out of an r33 gtr

I'm chasing a replacement power steering rack for my r33 gtr 1996 vspec. Must be in good working order, please pm me if you have one available.

Was an awesome cruise, will have to do again soon.

Looking to buy either a single or pair of R33 GTR Plastic N1 Bumper Vents. Interested in new or used and will pay for shipping if interstate. If you have one or more please pm me with a price

Took my car to the mechanic and he has confirmed that i've spun a bottom end bearing in my RB26. He's said that the knocking is very minimal and it's really early stages, he's also suggested that i don't need to go a full rebuild because the compression is still all good. Here's what he's suggesting: - Remove/replace engine - Replace bearings - Regrind crank - Install a Sump baffle (to prevent oil starvation again) - Install a head to sump oil drain (to prevent oil starvation again) Total approx cost $2500 Apparently this option should repair the damage and also mean that my engine should go on strong for many more years to come. I'm only running 300awkw at 18psi, so the stock internals should hold up to that kind of power levels i would have thought. Or, since the engine is out should i go for a full engine rebuild at around $6,500? My gut is telling me that I should just repair the engine and some preventative measures to prevent oil starvation again. Thoughts?

Wanted to bump this thread as well, because it fixed my problem with my R33 GTR. My car wouldn't idle properly intermittently, and would sometimes miss, now it runs like dream! Thanks, it's like a new car now!

Yeah where and what time are we cruising up tomoz guys?

Interesting, definitely worth a try - thanks for the info mate.

Has anyone organised a group cruise up on Friday afternoon?

Nevermind, i called up another place and they said it would be $600 max. This place was obviously just trying to rip me off.

Cool, i've emailed the application, i'll wait to hear back about whether I should deposit the funds today or if it's too late for me.

i'd prefer to wait for a response from the organiser, i'd hate to pay and then to be told they wont accept it. .

I was just about to email through my application and noticed that it says entries close on yesterday at 10pm. if I send through the form today and Direct Deposit the funds today is that still okay? Or have I missed the boat on this one?

Recently my power steering rack boot started leaking. It's not a really bad leak. I took it to a power steering specialist and without putting it up on the hoist they said that it will need a re-build and it would cost ($750 parts + 450 labour) = $1200 Does this sound correct? It seems like alot to pay for just a seal or hose leaking. Do I have any other options?

I've been leaking some oil from the bottom of my car from what appears to be my outer CV Joint boot. See below picture: Is there any way to tell if I just need to replace the boot or the actual joint without pulling it apart? Power steering fluid is also low as I assume this is the fluid that's leaking since it's all connected right?