KiwiRS4T

Didn't have any luck with the "secret squirrel trick" search. Can anyone confirm that the ECU pinout in the DIY section under series 2 pinouts is the one for my 1997 series 1 RS4T? (confusingly the engine is referred to a series 2 RB engine but that's another story). I understand that the Series II stagea has the R34 ECU but that the series I has a number of different ECUs. But do they all have the same pinout arrangement? I have followed a number of trails all over this site without a definitive answer. If anyone can supply a pinout diagram that they have used for their Series I stagea and know to be correct that would be great.

In New Zealand I am paying $2.20 for 98 $130 to fill car. The cost of extracting one barrell of oil from the ground in Saudi Arabia is less then US$1 Someone is ripping us off.

Got my Apexi SITC from Japan though ebay. The instructions are in Japanese but there is a translation somewhere on the internet. If anyone needs it I have the PDF pages for the Stagea. will attempt to attach them but if that doesn't work I can email them.

Good on you. I believe these are the pinouts for SeriesII Stagea. I understand the series I Stagea ECU is not the same as the R33 Skyline and also different from the R34 Skyline. Does anybody have the pinouts for series I WGN34 Stagea? I have spent hours/days reading through this site and haven't come across it yet. I saw that some people have got a CD of the Japanese workshop manual for the Stagea (some time ago) and if anyone is prepared to mail me a copy (to Auckland NZ) I would be happy to send requisite number of AU$ Thanks

As the sticker says cambelt should be done at 100,000 km you can be sure they will last at least that long (unlike some other brands which have to be done at 70k or 80k). Oil brands tend to generate some debate. I had a look on the internet at "engine oil comparisons" and there are about 12 million posts. However there is a great source of objective infromation at: http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf It is very long (177 pages) but you will know a lot more about oil at the end. The author concludes that synthetics are much superior to petroleum based oils and recommends oils with a track record such as (but not limited to) Amsoil, Redline or Mobil 1. Apperently the early synthetics (1970's) were hard on seals but this is not now the case. However he urges caution with changing late in life (Stageas are nealy all 10 years old now) as there is a possibility that seals damaged by years of petroleum based oils but sealed with gunk could start to leak when the engine is flushed out and synthetics are used. I plan to make the change anyway so I will let you know if my 1977 car starts leaking oil! He asserts that synthetics are good for up to four times the km of petroleum based oils but even if you change half as often that will ease the expense of the better oil.

For Kiwi readers this unit is available (by mail order if necessary) from Silverdale radiators for $149 +postage (saw it on Trade Me).

Whiteline BNR11XZ 22mm (solid) adjustable bar

Is your car an auto? There are suggestions that it is hard to get an aftermarket computer that will work well with an auto trans. I am looking for one for my RS4T (four wheel drive auto) series 1. Has anyone got any experience of one that works? ...(later)... I guess not - I have discovered the Jaycar thread and three hours later I am much better informed as to the way to go!

I have just read all 24 pages of this thread and learned a lot. Thanks to all the guys who posted their experiences and especially to SK for his wealth of knowledge and patience in explaining things. I have lowered my RS4T 30mm with Tein springs and fitted Bilsteins all round specially built for the application by a Bilstein factory trained specialist and the handling is transformed - cornering speeds up but still with a decent ride and no bottoming out and the car goes just where its pointed but I am inspired by this thread to change the sway bars as well. Being in NZ probably means that the group buy will not be economical because of freight but I will look into it. Thanks again to all.

My first Stagea was a non turbo neo engine - got really hot on a hot day with the airconditioner running. Replaced the stock 16mm radiator with a new 25mm for NZ$300 incl labour and no more overheating problems.

The Stagea has the full computer controlled ATESSA compared with the hydraulic/mechanical earlier Nissan system. My non turbo 1997 Stagea had cloth seats with electrical adjustment for the driver but my new (also 1997) turbo hasn't got electric seats. Both cars have a power tailgate though. See also: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/s...a/1997_8/21850/

Here is another source of specifications: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/s...a/1997_8/21850/