KiwiRS4T

Its not clear to me how exactly this thing works. I like the operating method of the Jaycar boost controller which is triggered by the duty cycle of the injectors and can absolutely eliminate any boost going to the wastegate actuator until you want it to. I am about to install my Jaycar EBC (at about half the price of the above - although that is for the build it yourself kit) - people who have used them say they work as described so sounds ideal to me. This is not to say that the new device mentioned above is no good - it is just not clear to me that it would be better.

The synchro button is really only for take off - once you are at speed (i can't remember what speed - someone with a meter could tell you ) the computer over-rides the button and reverts to normal operation.

Daxter - try the Gearbox Factory in Auckland - they do shift kits www.gearboxfactory.co.nz

For people nearer Sydney there is tuner called Anthony whose shop is in Newcastle (see his profile under "Guilt-Toy" who is happy tuning e-manage (does PFC as well) . At http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=229894 there is an interesting story of how he tuned an Skyline in Georgia (in the former Soviet Union, not in the USA) remotely with 3G phone!

Have a look at the ECU (pull up the bit covering the passenger step and take off the cover in theLH footwell). Mine is numbrered 23740 OV300 which i think is the early, more common one.

Does it have roller bearings?

Are there mounting holes for the rear ones or are you saying your model never had any? I think (these are old whiteline refS) Rear: BNR11XZ (22mm adjustable) and Front: BNF27 22mm or 24mm - whatever is an upgrade for you - but try to get hold of SK - he is the expert and makes them under the Selby brand I believe at Superior Suspension in Sydney.

What are your future plans? Would be interested to see if R34 SMIC upgrade helps or are you comitted to FMIC and highflowed or bigger turbo?

For most series I ECUs they seem to be as per the R34 chart above

Have you done the mods yet? That's pretty much what I'm doing to my car - got the full exhaust and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a new fuel pump fitted. I also have an SITC, and the Jaycar IEBC and DFA to fit when it stops raining and then a tune. I have fitted a Trust SMIC ( bigger still than the R34 GTT unit) and hope to get to 200AWKW with that (partly for cheapness -it only cost $90 and partly for the stock appearance). If I can't make the power (and I'm really expecting 160 to 180 then I'll highflow my turbo or get an R34 turbo highflowed. I expect that should get me to 200 but if its really strangled or I decide I need a bit more power I might have to crack and get a FMIC. I''l let you know. Please let us know if you have had a dyno run (and what stage your car's at).

Don't worry about the gaskets until you find out if you need a new engine.

It seems the NGK OZA395-E2 (Pulsar N14/N1, R33 Rb25DET) fits (plug as well? although the plug does not work for R34/neo). Its all in the O2 thread in the DIY section under "servicing" .

Yep...got sick of the sucky noise and just got rid of my pod and put a factory airbox back on. With the Pipercross replacement panel filter (PP1128-MX) there is no loss of power (in fact colder air delivery than an unsheilded pod) and i like the sound of my straight six engine.

Maybe. Series I Stagea has RB33 series 2 engine and Series II Stagea has R34 Neo engine. MOst Stageas are auto. ECUs vary but the plug looks the same. Dunno if that helps!

I have just built the IEBC and DFA (don't know if they work yet fingers crossed) and bought a SITC due to fit them soon. See no reason why any of these or a little extra power would damage the transmission... there are autos running 240awkw and also some commercials using this gearbox. Perhaps some of the guys who fitted these 2 years ago could comment on their experience.

Factory is 15* for both Stagea and Skyline R34 but if you're looking for economy just keep advancing it until you get detonation (Knock or pinking) and then retard it a little. I'll look out for a GTT ECU but must say Stagea ones are easier to get hold of (I'm in NZ). My Stagea is probably heavier than your car but I only get about 15litres per 100km (that should take you a while to convert to MPG)! (later) I had a quick look on the auction site but plenty of ECUs but not R34GTT. I could possibly locate one for you if you are real keen (probably $100 to $200). Depending on your financial situation the ideal solution would be an Apexi FC which would replace your ECU and be completely programmable for most everything (often available on Ebay) for around $1000 ...here is a local example: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-166522943.htm

I don't have a direct answer for you but ... there are a number (3 or 4) of different Stagea computers although all appear to have pinouts like the R34. For example mine is numbered OV300 and I have an auto with an RB33 series 2 engine. Your best bet is if you could borrow a Skyline R34 GTT ECU and see if it runs differently

Does your boost have a step at around 4500 rev/min as mentioned above? If not someone may have bypassed the boost solenoid for extra boost (a good trick) see http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja...html&st=880 and scroll down to post 884 for a photo of the boost solenoid (near the power steering reservoir).

Why do coilpacks break down? Dunno but but over here agressive steam cleaning by MAF at the border probably doesn't help. Also stuffed plugs putting extra demands on them. If you do a search on this site there are 1001 opinions and horror stories. There seems to be no reliable way to test them. The multimeter doesn't always pick up the problem. A visual inspection for cracks, tracking or burn marks is worthwhile followed by a good clean and various forms of insulation have been suggested. Taking the cover off at night or in a dark garage and looking for arcing seems a good idea. You could try these cheap fixes before moving on to new coilpacks or looking at the other possible causes of missing

When you lean out the A/F with the SAFC you may get detonation (pinking or knocking). Without a SITC you will have to retard the base timing to get rid of it. With a SITC you can tailor the timing throughout the rev range to get maximum advance without knock. So it is desirable but not necessary - you may want to spend your money on a new front pipe first.

Another ute (apologies if you've already seen it) http://www.7tune.com/b1-drift-round-1/ scroll down to the third row of pictures