KiwiRS4T

TradeMe lists about 50 Skylines for sale. Average asking prices (don't know what they actually sell for) are: 32 $30k 32GTR $100k 33 $28k 33GTR $130K 34 $33K 34GTR (one only) at $275K!

People commonly put a Quaife in the front and a Nismo (or other) in the back. In my old S1 I just put a whole GTR rear end in it giving me the LSD and GTR brakes. Might have had to change over the attessa rings (can't remember). Mind you I got it for $1200. Prices may have gone up....

Personally I always like to get a quote from an auto electrician for a rebuild before splashing out on a new one.

Get an oil pressure and oil temperature gauge so you can keep an eye on things.

Chuck in bin OR: Bee-R Website instructions are wrong - they know, Brooksie has told them they're sorting it Takakaira Website is also wrong - they copied the Bee-R website These are the correct wiring instructions WIRING Yellow Wire - 120' pin on ECU Green Wire - 1' pin on ECU Red Wire - 12V IGN pin on ECU Black Wire - Ground (On PowerFC's you may need to add an extra earth from this pin to the PowerFC chassis for extra earthing). White Wire - Attaches to the Handbrake On wire that goes to the dash if you want to activate the Launch Control feature ECU pin outs R34GTT Yellow - 44 or 45 Green - 46 Red - 67 Black - 25 R34GTR - I don't have an ECU pinout for this so I can't tell you, hopefully this'll be sorted fairly soon CONTROL BOX WIRING White Wire Loop - This activates the 2nd white dial which allows you to set a secondary rev limit which only comes on when the handbrake is on and is mostly used as Launch Control. Cut the loop if you don't want to use it Grey Wire Loop - Leave this alone, only cut for 4 cylinder cars Brown Loop - Leave this alone, only cut if you have a rotary engine CONTROL UNIT Red Dial - sets normal Engine Rev Limit (see below) White Dial - sets Handbrake/Launch Control Rev Limit (see Below) Yellow Dial - Sets the Gain or how big the Bang is (0 = off, 1 = very quiet & F = WW3 - try a middle setting and adjust to your peference) The 0-F settings match upto these Revs 0 2500 1 3000 2 3500 3 4000 4 4500 5 5000 6 5500 7 6000 8 6500 9 7000 A 7500 B 8000 C 8500 D 9000 E 9500 F 10000 TESTING & PROBLEMS Normal Test - With the car warmed up (very important) set the Red Dial to 5, the gain at 9 and the white dial to 3 (only if using the handbrake option). Now without the handbrake on gently rev the car and at 5000rpm the car should start back-firing and the red light on the control unit should flash Handbrake/Launch Control Test - Put the handbrake on and gently rev the car and at 4000rpm the car should start back-firing and the red light on the control unit should flash. If it does then everything is set up and you can now adjust the dials to your own preference. Problems - Car doesn't start - swap the Yellow and Green around (shouldn't happen now the instructions are right) Hope that sorts everything out..........................................IanH

there you go no need to touch it.

Good effort - but note the standard you need to meet is something that will securely hold the battery in the event of a roll over.

Are you leaking brake fluid? Pull the MC apart and inspect the bore. If its not badly pitted you can clean it up and put a new seal kit in it. A MC should be around $3-400

Buy the cheaper pads... they will be fine ...and keep the old ones. If you keep the car long enough you can get the old ones rebuilt by Race Brakes.

You'll be doing well to get 700hp from that turbo. Have you already bought it or can you get something better?

OV300 is the most common ecu pin44/45 trigger1 pin46 trigger2 earth can be anywhere e.g.32

Apart from throwing a code is there anything wrong with the way the car drives? I only know of two types of CAS and yours is most likely the Hitachi one in the pic below. Without removing it you can really only check that the wiring to the plug is in good condition. Next step is to take it off (you can mark it so that it goes back in the same place but ideally you would use a timing light to reset it) and spin it by hand to see if there is any roughness in the bearing. You can buy new ones for anything up to $400 (its a Mitsubishi 23731 02U11) or get one from a wrecker. Here's one for $65 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/listing-2721984825.htm?rsqid=c37117ac071a484394238462398ccae9-001 Whereabouts are you located?

Walbro GSS 341 or similar

Immediately just lose the turbo timer so it doesn't give you problems one day. For the rest just try to track down a good tuner and post up the results!

The Motorcraft plug is recommended for Fords running on gas. The RB plug is NGK BKR7Eix so if the Motorcraft is equivalent then yes they are cheap.

if you have an open diff or viscous LSD (effectively the same) use any 75W 140 If you have a mechanical LSD use Motul Gear Competition 75W 140

They don't cool the engine enough - on a hot day in traffic, when pushing the car e.g. on the track etc. Usual fix is to replace it but if you have no problems congrats.

Take the CAS off and spin it by hand - feel for any roughness. Check fuel pressure (pump on way out) Clean MAF and check connections on plug.

You have put a fuse in the power supply?

Hi ! Got some pics of your cars? Have you thought about importing from Japan?

Faulty pin in the plug? Loom been molested?

Assuming you are not on a restricted licence no need to remove any turbos. Just go easy on the accelerator pedal. You will want the full power soon enough. A stock GTR is not going to frighten an experienced driver.

if you are asking the question you don't need one!

Looks good. Maybe a bit small for a track car but otherwise fine.

I have used many spacers over the years without a problem. 10mm is too much for slip on spacers...they should be bolt on.. with the right combination of spacers and hubcentric rings should be fine. They need to be done up properly before putting any weight on the wheel. Like Ben said what was the CB of the wheel and what were the inside and outside mm of the rings? The spacer looks like an odd diameter as well. The rings are soft - they are only made of aluminium - some are made of plastic. They are only meant to locate the wheels until you tighten them up. Many aftermarket wheels have 73.1CB so to go on a Nissan the rings should state 73.1 to 66.1