KiwiRS4T

Strength.

For a start go to the Forced Induction section and look at the RB25 turbo upgrade thread. You will see what people have done to their cars to get more power. Start at the end to avoid a load of outdated gear. And there is a huge difference both in power and in money between 500 and 1000hp so have a think about how much power you really want.

You didn't say it was an R32 Nismo you said it was a late model so I assumed it was an R33 or R34

Well if you really have an R32 then you probably have an issue right there with the r32 speedo being cable driven.

Stagea looks good. the other car is a bit of a mess!

I haven't done it on purpose but I have had an RB25 with broken ringlands and can confirm that it readily observable with a compression test,

Are you planning to keep it stock? If so I would look for a VQ35 model which has the same power output as the VQ25DET but without the turbo to worry about or the 25's propensity to wear out the timing chain around 200,000km.

The only really useful numbers on a dyno readout are the before and after numbers for your car. Brands of dynos differ as well as the difference between roller and hub dynos (with the latter not having the problems of tyres slipping) but also operators can usually choose a wide range of settings which makes it difficult to compare performance between cars on different dynos. Some more annoying settings are using km/hr instead of rpm and some use an estimated flywheel power number.

Has it got a Neo engine? Probably same as R34: Nistune, Link, Haltech.

Coil pack looks like its been shorting. First step put in some new plugs gapped down to 0.8mm. Thoroughly clean the coils and wrap with insulating tape. This may fix it but new coils still a good idea.

What do your plugs look like when you change them? Do you have a dyno chart of the afrs? Have you done a compression test?

Where is your evidence that the stock radiators fail more than any other...and will your all alloy twin core radiator exactly fit the V35 shroud? How does the fan suck 6hp away? It is only operating at idle or in traffic. At normal speed the clutch is disengaged . Presumably your twin electric fans work the same way. From whence comes the power to drive them if not from the engine? With the km your car has done you should probably be saving up for a new turbo or timing chain (after you have replaced your fan if it is faulty).

Actually I have been looking at getting an M35 Stagea and an LS engine is looking more attractive than VH41 or VK56.

Is your car overheating? If not just check your radiator and thermostat and clean or replace with another stocker and don't fix what ain't broken.

If you want to disable the HiCas I think you need to do more than just pull the bulb. Something along the lines of a HiCas removal kit or suchlike but I am not familiar with M35s. Not sure you need an engine oil cooler but if you fit a trans oil cooler and leave it plumbed through the radiator that will provide a little extra cooling. If you do fit an engine oil cooler make sure your sandwich plate has a thermostat in it so your engine doesn't run cold all the time on short trips. Unless you are in a really hot environment 5W 40 would be better. The weak spot of the VQ25 seems to be timing chain failure at about 200,000km and replacement is a massive job. I don't know how you prevent it but regular oil changes which you have planned should help.

Works fine on Google chrome. Takes a while to download. Car sounds great! Hard to tell just how noisy it is but I guess it would wake the neighbours if you have any nearby...

The first question is why. But if you want to fit them and can't make the brackets yourself you are looking for a fabricator to make them...so post up your location and someone may be able to point you to one if you can't find one yourself.

If your RB25 is in good condition consider getting a turbo from Hypergear. Read through some of his last few pages to see the results he is getting from his cost effective turbos. But if its in need of a rebuild consider an RB30. With better than 9:1 compression you will get better pickup even off boost.

Can you ? Of course you can. Should you? That's another matter. Millions of words have been written on both these questions so just google the questions and you will have plenty of suggestions. In my opinion that straight looking car deserves an RB25 DET at least!

All things being equal 4wd will always have better grip than 2wd Fuel consumption is a function of power, weight (total work done) and efficiency. In my view especially for a road car an RB30 is going to be better than an RB25 or even 26 or 28.

If it was replaced then it will be fine for a few years.

Brake fluids are supposed to be changed regularly and almost never done so it would be good to do that (and the clutch fluid while you're at it - not so important but easy to do). If you don't know the history a change of gearbox oil would also be a good idea. If the coolant looks like plain water maybe do that as well.

I have to confess i do not know with certainty how bias is achieved but I thought it was the spacing of the pistons/cups along the rod that determined the bias.

My BM57 was off an R34 GTR but I reconditioned it with a Z32 kit which contained the rod/piston and seals so I presume would have the Z32 bias. It worked fine on my Stagea which pulled up straight every time while thrashing on the track. The front pads still wore down much quicker than the rears so quite happy with the set up. Your experience could be different .

When you say "better fit" do you mean bigger? What are the diameters of the M/C s? Does the Z33 have the right pipe connections in the right place? Is the 33 booster bigger? If everything checks out you should be fine. If the 33 stuff is not bigger there's really no point. Or just put the brakes on first (assuming that you have checked that they will fit) and worry about the M/C etc if you think you need to once you have tried the brakes.