KiwiRS4T

Look for a DET head. Apart from the flow the DE exhaust cam has 6.9mm lift the DET 8.7mm.

Everything is known about these engines. Buy what you can find - Neo is better but any turbo 25 will do if you are desperate.

Back in the day I had completely reconditioned my Austin Healey 3000 and on my first run was disconcerted to see a cloud of smoke coming out the exhaust pipes. Luckily only two weeks later I got the answer in the (snail) mail from the (UK) club newsletter. " if you have reconditioned your oil pump you may find excessive oil getting up into the top of the engine" . The solution was not the kind of oil restrictor I have been selling to RB users the last few years but "chop a section out of a six inch nail and drop it into the feed" . These days you just Google the problem and instant solutions are put in front of you.

And/or buy a new fuel filter and cut the old one open to see what's inside.

Are you looking to buy from Japan? This listing gives the name of a Japanese company... https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-2685852912.htm?rsqid=38d842ed9f56419bbd445ed199a48494-004

They don't appear to be that rare - less then $100 on ebay.

Venting to atmosphere is illegal most places but anyway as stated above if you have an efficient catch can you will not be flooding the intake with oil. Connecting to the intake will also promote some negative pressure which will help to ventilate the crank case and depending on how much track work you are doing there should not be too much getting into the catch can anyway.

There is a number of BMW owners forums - have a search and you may find someone who can help you.

I see that you have already asked this question and got all the answers back in March. Did you get a GT4 or is your car RWD only in which case the only difference is you can buy any RB25DET (preferably with a gearbox) and then spend money doing that up.

Just an outside chance it could be for 2wd operation if you have a 4wd but don't try it til you have read this: hmm the below is for a C34 - don't know if it applies to your car.... Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug). Disconnect it. Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode. To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go. I have hooked mine to a switch in the centre console.

Gidday! Lots of info in the Stagea (Wagoneers) section on what to look for. Are you looking at the C34 or M35 route?

Outside Temp sensor

Bit of ATF if you have nothing else....

If you have a stock motor you will probably find 300RWKW plenty to be going on with and you could achieve that with just the bolt-ons and pump fuel on an unopened engine. Then later if you still want more you could get the forged pistons and balance etc and turn up the boost.

I have added it to my post above^^^

Go to the Hypergear thread and look at his latest turbo on a GTT and follow it exactly without buying any unnecessary bits and you may acheive your aim somewhere near your budget. (Actually with the block work ...new pistons etc you will need a few more $$$). The only saving you could make would be to use a Nistune chip instead of an aftermarket ECU although i would go with the latter if you can afford it. (copied below) HyperGear Topic Author Members 380 3,917 posts Gender:Male Location:Campbellfield Car(s):R32 R34 M35 S2K-2JZ Real Name:Tao Report post Posted June 24 This is the final tune with stock cams unless something new come up. Car made a nice and responsive 537rwkws @ 36psi on E85 fuel, making 225rwkws @ 4000RPM, I will be moving into internally gated turbos for the coming weeks and hopefully some of the latest externally gated models can be made into high flows and RB bolt on turbos. R34 GTT Rb25det NEO Stock Cams Nitto Pistons and Rods. 9:1 CPR HyperGear ATR45SS-2 Turbocharger ID 1500cc injectors Twin Walbro 525L fuel pump Adaptronic Plugin ECU Greedy Profect B EBC 600x300x81mm PWR Cooler kit 3inches turbo back exhaust 4inches intake pipe with Pod Split fire coil packs Twin pulse manifold and twin 40mm gate. Car made 537rwkws @ 36psi, E85 fuel. With 225rwkws @ 4000RPM. Cams are maxed https://hypergearturbos.com/images/dynosheets/atr45/atr45ss2537rwkw/power.jpg https://hypergearturbos.com/images/dynosheets/atr45/atr45ss2537rwkw/boost.jpg

Think 255 40 would look better

http://www.banzai-racing.com/store_instructions/PROFEC_B_SPEC2.pdf

You don't know that it runs fine in limp mode - only that it delivers enough fuel for 3000 rev/min

When you say you got a new MAF is it a brand new genuine item and the right one for the application? Have a look at the plug wiring - sometimes resoldering the connections will help. The unknowns are - do you have a suitable ECU and are the injectors right for the application? Did you get receipts for the fuel pump? Is it brand new or used? Can you get the use of a fuel pressure tester?.

Are you using the stock fan? What kind of radiator do you have? Does the radiator shroud fit properly with your new radiator?

Honda, Audi guys seem to like them.

Have a look at the Hypergear thread. His latest version of the turbo makes 537 rwkw with stock inlet manifold and T/B.

OP was looking to buy a turbo that promised 430hp which is just over 300kw He was also looking at at TD06 promising over 400hp and asked "is there something else that would need to be changed to actually gain anything when putting in the .70 unit?" so I told him what would need to be changed...

Stock throttle body is good for at least 530KW. If you have already bought the Freddy may as well go ahead