KiwiRS4T

Unsprung weight matters. Rota wheels are not forged they are cast. That is not to say they are rubbish - they are extensively tested - but to make cast wheels as strong as forged wheels you need to use more metal. Rays Volk make a variety of wheels but genuine Te37s are forged. Its a more expensive process but makes for stronger wheels. For the street your Rotas will probably be fine - there are lots around - but for serious track use people will probably pay more for forged wheels or even for wheels made of lighter metals.

I have no video skills either but I think you can record video with your phone, download it to your computer with your cable and attach it to a post.

Well have you tried a PM to the electrician above?

Nismo should list a 1.5 for your model or you could consider swapping in a complete GTR rear end. Is your engine still N/A?

That's a big risk. At the least I would pay a car inspection service to check it out. Have you investigated buying from Japan? To buy a Japanese car from Australia would involve a double dose of fees and freight costs.

Looks relatively trivial. Deal to it properly and it shouldn't come back.

Or get a mobile mechanic to take your front pipe off.

I'll tell you what worked for me which may or may not work for you. BM57 M/C Front 330mm D2 with 8 pot calipers Rear R32GTR brakes 297x18 with twin pot Sumitomos and high temp pads. These worked great on road and track. I can't think of a circumstance where you would need brakes as big on the back as on the front.

R34 GTR, some Zeds not sure which.

Is there a leak in your exhaust system or have you got a side exit pipe? Don't want to dissuade you from getting a catalytic converter but surprised that you have such a problem.

Given your tech drawing skills perhaps you should first enroll in a course in computer aided design so that you can better plan your set-up

Yep?

Get the Bosch ones ...they will operate satisfactorily at low flows as well as at maximum.

No and no

i have attached my wheel alignment specs but as it is for an AWD chassis it is not really a blueprint for you. Possibly relevant for your car : Rear Toe in o to 1deg Rear camber - see if there is any adjustment on the eccentrics (they don't move that much anyway) Front castor - more will give you better straight line stability at high speeds (but you need castor rods) Camber - 3 deg is good for track - chews out tyres on a street car. I think my front toe-out is probably related to AWD - don't know what RWD cars use....I guess you can't go wrong with zero. Wheel alignment specs.xls

Glad you cracked it! But depending on where you are tuners for the HKS gear can be hard to find. Do you have another plan for a new ECU (or a Nistune chip maybe)?

Try to get a refund. What is wrong with your half shafts? Did you look into getting them rebuilt locally?

I had the stock plug in Link and yes the auxiliary loom will attach (it may be called something else). You don't need the stock O2 sensor and the position that its in may not be ideal for the wideband sensor. It is simple to add another mounting point on the exhaust. The old G4 had an onboard 2 bar MAP sensor so most people get an aftermarket 3 or 4 bar sensor. In case you don't know Soichi has left Hi Tech. I believe Glen Suckling has first class computer and tuning skills although he is always busy and not the cheapest in town. Sorry I don't have my Stagea anymore so can't look at it to help you!

Ideally you need an auxiliary loom from Link which you can use to run the Mac valve for boost control and also to connect your AIT sensor and MAP sensor (assuming you are not using the small onboard sensor). If you want help to get your wideband connected you can contact Link - there may be enough info on their website or you can ask for tech support. I am attaching the GTT pinout if you haven't already got it. Who does your tuning? Glen Suckling installed my Link and tunes the car . GDS 752 Kaipara Coast Highway Kaukapakapa 09 4205630 I have sent a bunch of pinouts - didn't have time to see which ones were any good. PS the GTT had traction control - not sure what your engine has will have a look at pics later. Link G4 Manual.pdf Pinouts R34_ecu.pdf R34 pinouts text version.odt R34Pinouts_definitive.xlsx R34 Pinouts with wire colours.ods

Don't quite understand your question. The non RB26 non 260Rs Stagea has a sidemount. All 260s have an RB26.

How big is that turbo? What ECU are you planning to run it with? You say you have no ignition light...is the starter turning the engine?

Just bolts in but check that your booster is working properly as well.

How does it sound?

Open a savings account and save up $5000 for a bigger turbo etc. While you are saving you can research (Google) what to do when you have the money.

Your first port of call should be Google e.g. "how to remove crank pulley from RB engine" But the answer to your question will be found early on in this thread: