KiwiRS4T

Works on my desk top using Google Chrome.

Close it up and drive it. If it has not been overheating just keep an eye on the water level. Certainly wouldn't be pulling it apart at this stage. Worth doing it again to see if it gets less. If not definitely do the gas test. You may be able to get a kit from Repco or Supercheap on line as they are allowed to ship "essential" items.

Outside chance...send an email to Cockram Nissan in Christchurch with your vin number. There was a guy in the parts department who would look up items for Skylines, but don't know if he is still there.

Clutch M/C will be the same.

Ok one more question...did you watch the mechanic do the pressure test and what happened? Did the pressure go down without any sign of water spurting out? Here is a test kit along the lines of what GTSBoy was suggesting earlier (you may be able to get a similar one cheaper from your local Repco or Supercheap) that you can use yourself: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/other/listing-2596027845.htm?rsqid=e736fd9eb1f5494eb91b42a7ed009919-001 If this test comes out positive you have a problem. If it comes out negative (no exhaust gas in bubbles) then it is still possible you need a good bleed of the air in the system (especially if this problem arose following a service where the coolant was changed). OR you do a good bleed now anyway: Get the front of the car as high as possible (up a steep drive, on a set of ramps, or jacked up as high as) and also find a plastic bottle (coke , milk, anything with the bottom cut off) the neck of which will fit tightly in the tube after you have taken the radiator cap off. Start the engine and turn your heater(s) on full. Idle until the thermostat opens (you can tell by the hoses heating up) and add water to the plastic bottle (half full will do). Continue to add water if necessary and watch for the bubbles to stop. Give it a good 20 minutes or so. If the bubbles stop put the cap back on and hopefully its cured! BTW as a matter of interest how far can you drive the car before it overheats?

Could you rewrite this sentence please? Its a bit hard to work out what you are saying. Did he say yes there were bubbles in the radiator when some or all of the cylinders were compression tested or no there were not? BTW you're out on a limb in Napier - I have good contacts in Auckland but none there... and yes you have to pull the front of the car off to get at things which is why replacement timing chains are so expensive...(so if you end up doing this good idea to have the chain and chain guides checked at they are a weak pint on the VQ25).

Have a look on the plate on your firewall and it will give the stock diff ratio for your car which I believe is 4.3 ...so 3.69 will be a lot taller - probably more than you want. A viscous diff will not be much different from an open diff especially if it is old. To make a worthwhile change you need a mechanical LSD (I presume you don't really want a "locked" or welded diff). Whereabouts do you live? You may need to search further afield to get a suitable diff.

Scroll back a few pages to the posts from "feedmyfast" who has a similar setup. Maybe the problem is your tuner - try turning the boost up to something like 30psi.

Are you using the ecu and loom from the Neo motor? Do you have power to the injectors (they earth through the ecu) Do you have the original CAS for the Neo motor? Is your Ceffie auto or manual or has it just been converted (in which case you have to short out the switch that stops you from starting it in gear).

Cool - more pics and build details please!

^^^what he said. You want it baffled because that will help to ensure most of the oil stays in the can rather then get recirculated through the intake. Venting to atmosphere can also result in unwanted smells in the cabin. And it works better if not vented. If you are not going to track it and you don't have a big problem you could have smaller than 2L but be aware that some of the products you see on ebay turn out to be ridiculously tiny when they turn up in the mail. If you don't have a major problem then you can pipe both the cam covers in one hose to the catch can.

The first question is what is the function of your catch can and then the rest will follow. But catch cans should not vent to atmosphere, should be baffled and at least 2L

My first suggestion would be to tone down the cams. Even to stock cams or some custom cams with less overlap but higher than stock lift (with some adjustable gears to get the optimum settings). So far as I can see aggressive cams are for engines operated principally at high revs...drag cars or circuit racers with a close ratio box. Secondly to convince you that going back to twins would be a retrograde step have a look at this video - it is definitely worth a watch: :http://www.goodezilla.com/rb26dett-skyline-gtr-single-turbo-vs-twin-turbo Regarding turbo choice I have no advice for you - my experience runs only to an old school GT3540R. It could be that your turbo could be adapted but I will leave it to those with better knowledge than I have.

Oops you are right - my list doesn't mention rears ?

Yep 4in exhaust will be good - but I believe you can get E85 at Hampton Downs (also at a service station in Hamilton) and dual fuel means you can daily it on 98.

What kind of ECU have you got? Dual fuel with E85 will get you close to where you want!

According to my list (which I have copied from a website and cannot verify as being 100%) The R32 GTR had 296mm rotors with Sumitomo calipers The R32 GTR V Spec had 324mm with Brembos but the R33 and R34 GTRs had 324mm with Brembos on both base and V spec models.

Does this look like the plug on yours? If so a cheap solution: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pre-Cat-O2-Oxygen-Sensor-for-Nissan-Maxima-A33-3-0L-VQ30DE-Front-Bank-1999-2003/283667025102?hash=item420bdf4cce:g:e-EAAOSw0ENdAjcY Or this : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pre-Cat-O2-Oxygen-Sensor-for-Nissan-Maxima-A33-3-0L-VQ30DE-Front-Bank-1999-2003/283667025102?hash=item420bdf4cce:g:e-EAAOSw0ENdAjcY

R34 is a pull type but I would think getting an RB gearbox in Canada could be difficult (unless you already have one?) so you may end up getting a push type box so you should buy the box first and then get a clutch to suit.

Jet boaters over here use the VH41 but I guess for skis you don't need as much power... Oops just saw you are racing - more is better...unless you have a capacity limit.

I suggested it because you were thinking of spending $1000 on an inlet manifold so I suggested a better use for the money. But it was just a suggestion.

Yep I saw that - I had one of those and just made 273KW on a 25 so I don't think you'll see 400hp but happy to see you prove me wrong.

Save a $1000 and don't buy the Plazaman intake either...get a Hypergear turbo instead.

Looks mean! Don't know that you can do much about the OSG clutch...I think you just have to get used to it!

Looks nice but needs inspection. KM may or may not be genuine - condition of the car is a better guide than the odometer. Are you close enough to check it out or is there someone who can do it for you? Will you be happy with the small 2L engine ? Have you driven a Skyline? Probably important for you to try one.