KiwiRS4T

Hi - have a read through parts of the "Wagoneers" (Stagea) section - there's lots of information there!

Novel mounting place for a vented catch can - just above the exhaust!

I have attached the wheel alignment specs that I have used...but yours now should be ok. You can buy adjustable camber and castor arms (and it is not where you buy them but the brand that matters - and no, you don't want rubbish that will break) but I don't think that is what you need. What are your rear shocks like? If they are worn out that could be giving you problems. If you can jack up the rear of the car to take the weight off the wheels then maybe you can use a bar or something to see where there is excessive play. A set of bushes should last longer than a few years. Wheel alignment specs.ods

Your ecu number looks legit which is a pity because if it were wrong that would be an easy fix. As for the rest I have no idea. I have had three C34 Stageas but I put an RB30 in the last one. I do not have an RB26 to look at. I imagine they will fairly rare up your way but have you been on the GTR UK site? https://www.gtr.co.uk/forums/ There may be someone up your way. Sorry I have run out of ideas!

Don't know what white plug your are talking about - maybe take some pics And post up your ecu number something probably starting with 23710

35 is the front AFM and 54 is throttle as above. So your 260RS loom plugs in to the ecu and goes all the way to the engine without a break? Look up the number on the ecu. I'll see if I can verify it tomorrow - its way past my bedtime. Found another chart with wire colours which may or may not apply to you. Actually I'll just send you the chart Pinouts -nissan-rb26dett.pdf

Ok the Stagea manual says for RB26DETT just the same as the R32 GTR manual. Maybe you have the wrong loom or its got damaged? What ecu do you have? What is the number on it? Have you got all of the loom from the engine to the ecu? i.e. did you get the ecu and loom complete that came with the engine?

What pinout diagram do you have? Looking at an R32GTR pinout it is as you say for 26,27,34,35 and 54. I'll have a look at my Stagea manual and see if there is a different pinout.

Have you checked behind the cluster? Check the connections and when you unplug the dash see if the fuel gauge moves. Put a multimeter on the gauge connection and see if you are getting a signal.

Very nice! Any engine modifications?

No this is a reference to meX who started this particular discussion about his lack of pickup with a single 6466

Its a transmission factory. They have many including in China.

Well you can't go anywhere at the moment due to lockdown but I am sure Mr Lith will know of a tuner locally or may actually do it himself.

Don't know about your car specifically but those fans are usually triggered when the air cond is overwhelmed. The stock gauge is usually calibrated so that it doesn't move into the "hot" indication until your engine is very hot indeed. See if you can get hold of one of those temperature guns (like you see people on TV pointing at people's foreheads to test for Covid) and check your inlet and outlet hoses to make sure your radiator is not blocked or your thermostat stuck.

OK my contacts are in Auckland, Tauranga and Christchurch but try a PM to Lithium on this site and ask him if he knows anyone who will tune Nistunes in Wellington. You can buy the actual board direct from Nistune but they sometimes come up on TradeMe.

Nistune tuners were hard to find when I started modifying my RB centuries ago so I had a guy modify an R32 ecu to suit but by now most tuners have come on board even though they would rather sell you a Link or a Motec. What is you nearest city?

Not sure what your point is Rusty. I didn't read all the way through but the main point is most people (except a fellow Kiwi I know!) used some kind of tuning device - power fc or emanage etc. No one is saying that you can't add a turbo to a DE motor (although its not the best option) but rather that its difficult to account for different compression ratios, injectors etc without any means of tuning as the OP proposes.

Bingo - you get the prize - that's the answer he was looking for ! But Nistune makes better sense ...

And that's with 30+psi ...so running a biggish turbo at low boost (18 psi) with biggish cams (272) - its going to take a while to get going.

Don't worry ... it seems he's already bought an RB26!!

Unlikely. First off they have different part numbers and there is a huge difference in height.

Did you drain the fuel tank and change the fuel filter? Check the coils for shorting and then either clean and insulate them or replace them (and try gapping the plugs down to .63) When you replace the water pump do the cambelt etc.

Have you tried Kudos Motorsports? http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/brake-rotor-rear-4000-series-slotted-dba4601s-suit-nissan-skyline-spec-brembo-calipers-w322mm-rotors-p-1750.html

Well did you do what was suggested as a cause back in the thread - check the TPS setting? And of course my favourite try unplugging the ecu water temp sensor. If it starts better that way (and don't turn the engine off again but keep driving) then you need to replace that sensor (its the one with two wires - the single wire one goes to the gauge). Other than that check that the fuel is priming properly.

32 and 33 are the same. R34 ones can be made to fit but are not direct bolt in. Don't know what 300ZX looks like. Update: Just checked a site that sells them and they list R32 33 A31 and C33 then R34 and 300ZX - so I guess these will not fit your R33. Here is the site: https://nzkw.com/product-category/motorsports/raceseats-and-accessories/seat-rails-and-brackets/nissan/