KiwiRS4T

1. Throw the fuse in the bin. 2. Turn up the stereo or 3. Pull the vent out and have a look behind it.

It could be blocked too. Either way I would either lose it altogether or get a better flowing one. If you can without outraging the neighbours you could try dropping the exhaust altogether to see if that is where the problem lies. Also, if dropping the ball and spring doesn't help you could pull the hose right off and , driving carefully so as not to overboost , see if the problem is with the wastegate.

OK so it bleeds to atmosphere. Is it supplied from a nipple in the compressor housing? Have you tried turning up the boost? I see the turbosmart instructions suggest removing the ball and spring in some applications - have you tried that?

You didn't mention the bleed - you do have the right one going to the actuator? To test properly for boost leaks you need to make up a plug and put about 20 psi into it. Leaks are sometimes hidden from sight and hard to hear with the motor running.

What do you mean "maxing out the Walbro"? Did the tuner say you were running out of fuel supply? What was the duty cycle on the injectors? Have you directly wired your Walbro? It will definitely struggle with the stock wiring. BTW 345KW is a good effort.

Sorry I don't know. I have always made sure to keep air out of the ABS unit. Some cars have small bleeder screws, some need a pressure bleeder and for some you need a scan tool to open and close solenoids. The answer may be in the workshop manual or hopefully someone else may be able to help.

"Black" is not specific enough - they make a range of units (including a basic 1:1 unit). What is the part number? It shouldn't knock if it is running too rich. Don't suppose you have a wideband afr meter installed? How does the tuner know what it is doing? Did he put a meter in your exhaust or a fuel pressure meter in the fuel line?

Hi Nathan Got a car or looking to get one? If so how about some pics!

Why did you change the FPR? If you didn't replace the old one with a stock one or a 1:1 unit but one with a rising rate such as 1:2 then you will need to touch up the tune.

That's pretty extreme camber for the road - or is it a track car only?

Hi Eddie what about a few pics of your cars!

Got the plug in (mine was an S1...) with an auxiliary loom plus AIT sensor and a bigger MAP sensor as the built in one was only 2 bar.

Mine was a factory auto but converted with GTR gearbox and rear end (I think GTSBoy missed the bit where you had converted to manual).

Did you use the original wiring for the fuel pump? If not directly wiring it may help. BTW good idea to get a window switch for the VCT (although that is not your main problem ATM).

Well I put a Link in my Stagea but apart from the usual functions I just used it for boost control although I believe it is capable of the other tasks that you require. .. but I believe top of the line Haltech will also do what you want.

No kidding...look at these! https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/gearboxes/listing-2584702119.htm?rsqid=c8e0627ef49f46a396defb373e11c27f-003 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/gearboxes/listing-2589710014.htm?rsqid=c8e0627ef49f46a396defb373e11c27f-003

If you fitted a dry abs unit you can have trouble bleeding the system.

That's correct unless someone has put an earlier crank in it...

Presumably with used units. You need to check each wheel. Another possible source of new M/C is Kudos Motorsport. I presume you have replaced the old fluid with new and properly bled the system?

The one I listed is supposed to be brand new, not refurbished. Your average workshop will not do the work - you need a brake specialist. You will not likely find a kit on Ebay. Brake boosters can fail but you would have the opposite problem - a lack of assistance, not the pedal sinking to the floor. Have you checked each corner of the car for leaking brake fluid?

If you take your M/C to a brake specialist they should be able to repair it with new seals. If it is badly worn and pitted they can resleeve it. If you can find a new one it is likely to be up around $400 -$500. Have you checked out the supplier below? They have a couple of items they say will fit the R34. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-QUALITY-Brake-Master-Cylinder-For-NISSAN-280ZX-S130-Part-JB1362/172450975591?fits=Plat_Gen%3AR34|Make%3ANissan&hash=item2826e10f67:g:KmcAAO Or try Amayama...I have previously bought an R33 M/C from Nissan in NZ but I believe most Aussie dealers will not get one for you.

Its not going to be as reliable as your Honda because it will probably be older than you are! The key to reliability is regular servicing and replacing old parts like wiring looms etc before they fail. If the engine is still sound you can modify it sensibly and get a good tune. Go through the modified RB25 DET posts to see what other people have done.

You need to take this seriously mate. Trump didn't and as a result a quarter of a million or more Americans could die. There are going to be long term consequences of this pandemic and in the modern connected world it will have to be defeated in every country before we can expect anything resembling normalcy.

355 is another story - I thought you wanted bigger. Both Duncan (above) and I have used brakes variously known as K Sport or D2 brakes but not with stock R34 wheels - mine were Rays TE37 . If you google 355 brake fitment you might get lucky.

Its rated for "up to 1,800hp" so should be adequate for your needs. Then again some people run no BOV....