KiwiRS4T

Yes or 2nd hand engine

Don't see why you couldn't limit boost with a cheap bleed screw type device.

Because Snap On don't want you to blame their tools for telling you your engine is farked. To say 40 - 60% leakage is "moderate" is plain ridiculous. Have you actually carried out a leakdown test on your car? What were the numbers? If you have you will know that the test is carried out with the piston at TDC and both valves closed so its hard to see why you think the lift or duration of the cam should make any difference.

Anyone who buys a GTR will soon be broke if they weren't to start with!! Next turbo should be a modern single.

A leak down test doesn't distinguish between modified and stock engines. There is no definitive answer its all relative. In my opinion anything more than 10% needs to be investigated which is not the same as saying you should panic and order a complete rebuild.

There were no manual C35 Laurels and the C34 had a manual only for the diesel version so get one of those and change it to petrol power! Here's one: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-2489978472.htm?rsqid=d8a0fc273c954b03ada32ae363c527a8-003

Just a stock skyline belt is it not?

Because they were loaded using Photobucket who are now trying to extort money from past users.

Stock cooling system is best - stock fan and shroud

As above don't open a new thread every time you come here - its confusing. The number you gave appears to be a C34 ecu but I guess it worked for you. The number I have found (doesn't mean its correct - someone with a similar car will know) is 23710 17U00. DO (if you haven't already) look through the parts for sale section and advertise in the parts wanted column. BTW it seems a S1 or S2 R33 ecu will do the trick (I believe your car is a S1)

This one may do or advertise in the parts wanted section on this site. Sorry was a turbo one. It would help if you post up the number on your ecu. It could be 23710 17 U 00 although I think an auto one would work at a pinch.

Do a search = how to find fault code (without scanner). I know it can be done on C34 probably on yours as well if you Google.

Its still a waste of money. Maintain your car so that you can sell it later and put the money into your account for the purchase of the turbo powered car that you really want down the track when you have the full licence.

The actual attessa systems on the R33 and R34 are each a major upgrade from the R32 system so just changing the controller may not give you a dramatic difference.

You don't really have to make it from scratch yourself. There are shops in NZ (as well as in Australia) who could make a manifold from welded steam pipe (not cast and not thin stainless) which would support any of the well known modern turbos. They have done so many of these for every kind of RB that just with the details of the turbo you want to use and the car you have it could be shipped to you and would fit like a glove. Just two of these shops are RIPS https://www.ripsracing.com/ and Sinco https://www.sincocustoms.com/ and for you viewing pleasure the manifold I got in the mail from Sinco many years ago now:

What he said...stock belt, stock thermostat, stock water pump and single turbo! http://www.goodezilla.com/rb26dett-skyline-gtr-single-turbo-vs-twin-turbo

Won't that cost more than your 1993 corolla cigarette lighter?

If you give them a bashing drive quietly on the way home...or if you are on the track do a cool down lap.

You gonna need some massive rubber. Stretched look not cool on a GTR.

Death to turbo timers

Check battery voltage and alternator output. Also battery connections.

Not much in the way of tuning you can do. Pull out a plug and if it looks old or the gap has grown to 1.2mm or more get a new set of plugs.

These were sold new in NZ so probably genuine mileage: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-2485856606.htm?rsqid=300b309c06a04f9db08a2252053a2b84-001

An auto electrical store should be able to find something or try a wrecker.

Apart from the hassle I presume this is not costing you money? What has Adaptronic got to say? A Link fan myself but Tao from Hypergear in Campbellfield has been fitting Adaptronics including to R34s with great success. Maybe give him a ring.