KiwiRS4T

If you can't find a second hand Haltech or Link ecu then maybe Nistune will do but if you want to run VCT you may need an R34 ecu.

Have you considered the Link ECU? These guys are agents. Although apparently Subaru specialists may be worth a phone call: https://www.itunesubies.com/

Put it in a vise and bend it with a large adjustable spanner or a block of wood and a hammer. Here's one if you are rich (they also have a RH): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-GTR-Engine-Lift-Bracket-Left-10006-05U15/123561719856?epid=2248799150&hash=item1cc4da3830:g:tasAAOSwqCRctfPv

Ok but you do realise that there will be a significant increase in your revs at highway speeds and your six speed box will be operating over a much smaller speed range. Have you looked hard for a non A-LSD rear diff?

Not going to work. Your front and rear diffs are 3.54:1 and the R32 diff is 4.1

I have a mobile key cutter who has all the gear. He can interrogate the system and make keys to suit...both the transponder and the central locking. Its a half hour job and he has a number of specialised electronic gizmos. I am sure there is such a person in your city.

I just drilled and tapped into the compressor housing using grease on the drill and tap and doing a little bit at a time.

If you haven't already seen it there is a load of relevant info here (pullers are fairly cheap to buy):

You say if you increase the duty cycle past 65% boost will go to 30 psi. Is this not the result that you want? As you go past 4000rpm there will be a huge increase in the pressure on the w/g to open and therefore will require a corresponding increase in the pressure to hold the w/g shut.

Sure you have the turbosmart plumbed correctly? How is it controlled - by your aftermarket ECU?

Yes you can get adapters to push the calipers out ...but that is hardly a stock look.

Look in the Stagea parts classified. There is at least one S2 wrecking. Check with wreckers.

Way beyond my capabilities. Have you got a dollar figure for the components? No doubt would be megabucks if one were to pay someone to do this!

Replace the fuel filter under the bonnet. Cut it open to see if it is full of crap. While its off turn on the key to see if a decent spurt of fuel comes out. You really need a fuel pressure gauge. Pressure test the system ...make up a plug with a tyre valve in the end and put it in the outlet pipe from the turbo and see if it will hold 20 psi.

i.e on the return end of the rail...

They are extremely rare. I tried to buy an ARC smic for my Stagea many years ago with no luck. Cracked and got a front mount. Other makers include Trust and Nismo but be aware that any R33 or R34 models will not fit without major modification .

To my knowledge they have traction control - have you checked?

So far as I know all RBs have a drum handbrake and they are all the same. You may need to trim the backing plate for the bigger rotor.. And as above...used calipers with new seals is as good as new.

Get some new bulbs?

My C34 was pretty quick with 320awkw - yours should really shift with 388 and should be fun on the track with over 400!

Don't like your chances. In fact i can see you possibly being pinged twice - once for have an uncomplied front seat and also for being a seat belt short. And don't ask on this forum just ring the relevant regulator for a definitive answer.

The right way is to do what is required. Don't pull it apart just for the sake of it. If you do decide to open it up then observations and measurements will determine whether you just need rings and bearings or a full recondition.Get a copy of the workshop manual and that will tell you what the tolerances are.

Contact Tao from Hypergear (his thread is in the forced induction section) and see what he has for you.

What Ben said - that turbo won't be fun on an RB20DET.

High performance brakes are not cheap so what kind of brakes do you need? Are you going to be track racing your car? If not the best upgrade for your car is a set of GTT brakes together with new brake fluid upgraded brake lines and better pads. If you are set on brand new stuff (and can't get Nissan parts new) then there is the D2 series of brakes. They are AP knock offs and are sold under a few other names as well. I have used them on the track (with Pagid pads) and others (such as Duncan who has just replied above) have used them for racing.