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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    Take a spark plug out connect everything up and see if its sparking when you turn the key. have you got the furl supply to the rail connected correctly (don't laugh - many have done it the wrong way round)? Don't stuff around with a meter on the CAS - pull it off as suggested and check the drive is ok and while you have it off turn the key on and turn it by hand and listen for the injectors. When you pull a plug out is it wet with petrol? Finally if you can't get it going get a mechanic to have a look - its just another car and if its put together correctly and nothing is broken it will go.
  2. KiwiRS4T
    If you are checking an engine you have just opened you will want to check for out of round, taper etc but when you get a block back from the machine shop you can assume that the bores will be round. When you are assembling the motor you are really just checking clearances so you want to measure the bore and the pistons. You will want to measure the ring gap. I haven't built as many engines as others on this forum but I do the basic checks. You can measure the crankshaft, main bearings and rods. I don't even know what a rod bolt stretch gauge is (I always upgrade the rod bolts). I check the fit of the mains and rods with plastigauge. I own a torque wrench and some sets of feeler gauges and borrow the micrometers (but many hire shops rent them out). There is a middle path between doing no checks and going to town checking every last detail.
  3. KiwiRS4T
    They are not specialist tools. Inside and outside micrometer, feeler gauges (which you will have) and as a final check on bearings plastigauge is cheap and accurate.
  4. KiwiRS4T
    None. Use the correct lubricants.
  5. KiwiRS4T
    Quite
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Hire the tools and do the checks. Mistakes happen. Why would you wait until the engine is in the car to find out? Plastigauge is cheap and reliable.
  7. KiwiRS4T
    What a clean understated looking car! Love the four door look. I want it!
  8. KiwiRS4T
    Ring or email Kudos http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/lambda-oxygen-sensor-front-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-185.html They have all the O2 sensors. Tell them your R32 sensor was too small in diameter. The front and rear sensors are different so be sure you tell them what you need. You should be able to sort it out over the phone.
  9. KiwiRS4T
    Do you have a wreckers yard nearby? It is possible that number plate lights from a similar age Nissan might fit your car.
  10. KiwiRS4T
    Without knowing for sure which engine you have a good way to check if you have the right Splitfires is to ensure that the bolt patterns are the same as your stock coils. Look at the link below. You will be needing either DIS 001 or DIS 005 and you can tell by looking at the bolt pattern - one has three bolts, one four. Whichever has the same bolt pattern as yours is the correct replacement. https://driftsideracing.co.nz/split-fire-ignition-coil/nissan-skyline-ignition-coils-dis-001.html
  11. KiwiRS4T
    That's the ticket!
  12. KiwiRS4T
    Good answer from Steve - all I want to add is see if you can find someone you can talk these things over with. Posting here is a start and don't rule out seeing a psychologist but other counselors can help and its even worth mentioning it to your GP.
  13. KiwiRS4T
    Its a serious looking unit - keep it and relocate the battery to the boot...
  14. KiwiRS4T
    Have you got a boost gauge? Just drive sensibly ...you should be able to tell when your boost is on the rise anyway.
  15. KiwiRS4T
    Here is my S1 with some no -name rims I was using for the track . They were 17 x 8.5 offset +17 so fit the body ok but whether they clear the brakes depends on the profile. I had previously had some Enkeis on the car so chances are good. Are you close enough to test fit? Sorry - it was a few years ago now...I think I had 10mm spacers on the back and possibly 20mm on the front....
  16. KiwiRS4T
    Yes its been done - just use Google This is one but there is a more recent one around somewhere https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150991-c4-auto-into-nissan/
  17. KiwiRS4T
    Go to the RB25 turbo upgrade thread and see what works for you.
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Your afrs as per the above chart don't look too bad. But regarding plug gap your tuner is flat out wrong. Factory is 1.1mm or .043 inches and people with beefed up ignition systems can run that gap ok. With Splitfires and a decent amount of boost gapping down to 0.8mm or .032 inches works ok. But .5mm is getting ridiculous. There are literally thousands of RBs running in Australia and New Zealand and tuners have over two decades of data to work with and I don't think you would find one among them who would think you should gap down to .5mm Also remotely accessing your ecu and playing with the maps without any monitoring equipment is not proper tuning.
  19. KiwiRS4T
    FPR is the fuel pressure regulator and not a likely suspect. The injectors may be old school or modern ones (Deatsworks don't make them they just rebuild them) but if new should be ok. After the new coils are installed, and please confirm you are not going to gap the plugs down to nothing (0.02in) - you just need a tune. What does "verify your tune" mean? Will he have access to an AFR meter, knock detector etc? If you are right about your current afr levels then yes you are running lean enough to damage your engine.
  20. KiwiRS4T
    So your car is not sitting on a dyno? The tuner is just playing with the maps? Do not gap your new plugs at .02 go to 32 thou (.8mm or .032 in) The fuel controller is the ecu so if you reckon the pump and fpr are fine that just leaves the injectors so as Murray says what kind are they and could they need cleaning and testing? Do you have any idea what the duty cycle is on the injectors? I still think your tuner does not know what he is doing.
  21. KiwiRS4T
    No Yes you need new coils but also a new mechanic and tuner by the look of things. Do you have any dyno charts you can put up? Particularly interested in the afrs! BTW how is your car being tuned (what kind of ECU do you have)?
  22. KiwiRS4T
    Nice clean low km car! Rare in factory manual.
  23. KiwiRS4T
    The official gap is 1.1mm but people often gap down to 0.8mm or .63 if coils are weak. If your tuner is telling you to gap down to 0.5mm he knows you have a problem. What plugs are you using? Did you get that fuel air the right way round? Idle should be around 14.7 and under load around 12 You've either got a dodgy tuner or you have other problems with your car.
  24. KiwiRS4T
    These are infamous for going bad. In fact its so common that there is an exchange service (in NZ sadly) for these units. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/accessories/listing-2312194981.htm?rsqid=b3e5fee8455748e7aa06b1047be5ddcc-002
  25. KiwiRS4T
    Normally a radiator shop will match up the profile and supply you something suitable.
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