KiwiRS4T

BTW if you are doing water pump that's a good time to do front seal, cambelt, idler and tensioner.

Nice 32! Yep I got mine from Nissan in Henderson (Nissan actually called them sun visors or something like that) or there was a Skyline enthusiast in the parts department at Cockram Nissan in Christchurch.

Seems suspiciously cheap. The cheapest R35 in TradeMe is a 2008 model $51K and that has done 120,000km. Most 2008 cars go for $60k + and a 2015 would be around $90 - 100K

OP has had an oil control problem since at least early March. If you read this thread from the beginning you will see he has compressions of 165 but his leak down test is 10%. The person carrying out the leak down test should have been able to tell him whether it was leaking from the rings or the valves but by the symptoms he reports it could be both. If you read the oil control thread (say from half way through) you will see that there are ways of managing the problems.

There are many people with modified engines contributing to the oil control thread so hardly "no-one" In my experience SAU, while not infallible, is more likely to solve a problem than any other single website.

You have been saying the same thing since March. The solutions are in this thread - start half way though - https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?tab=comments#comment-2039323

If your bores are glazed after only 1000km then clearly you have not bedded in your rings. Run it harder when you get it back together (with mineral oil).

Very nice apart from the crusty knob!

The colours are not clear but you may be able to work out what you need (with a multimeter if necessary)

I had "pineapples" in my diff too so doubt its the cause but easy to try I guess. Wouldn't have thought it would get that hot with normal road use. If you can get it up on a hoist you could try various things with a pry bar to see where there is excessive movement. Here is a PDF from OS Giken warning against using added friction modifiers: The Importance of OS250R.pdf

Well done...but your photo is invisible - try again!

No need to panic. Does temperature come down at highway speeds? If so refitting shroud should help in traffic. As suggested search for how to bleed cooling system on RB engines. In the meantime if you are worried turn your heater on full and wind the windows down!

Or take it to an engineering supply shop and get them to match it up with a high tensile bolt.

The OS fluid is made for the LSD so I don't see why it would need an additive. I used the Nismo competition oil in my GTR mechanical LSD and didn't change it in over 20,000km. Have you checked the diff temp on a track day? Can you get (if it hasn't already got one) a finned backing plate for better cooling?

Just use all of the RB25DET

If you have an RB25DET just use that. It will be better than a boosted Neo DE.

I would look for an R33 DET cam and measure it before you buy. There should be heaps lying around from people who have installed poncams etc. There's one on ebay now for $50 but an intake unfortunately.

You're too young to remember!

It appears to be stamped with " HKS POWER" and a little more googling reveals it to be the HKS RB26 V Cam https://www.hksusa.com/products/rb26-vcam-system/52

The only thing that occurs to me is that your injectors seem unfashionably small. People today would go for more like 1200 or 1600s especially if considering E85. What duty cycles are you reaching (and for that matter what is your power goal)?

Hope its gone to a good home!

Yes you have no idea what you are doing. It is clear that you have read at least two threads telling you what the"secret squirrel" trick is but you say you don't know what to do. Your best bet is to return the car back to stock if you remember how Or get professional help...

I presume you are going to do a manual conversion at the same time? If you haven't already got the RB26 and you can get your hands on a 30 block a 30/25 (preferably with a neo head) would make for a much nicer car.

You are definitely skilled! I thought you were on the right track with the single turbo but clearly you have the ability to follow through with your decisions. With the amount of original fabrication I can see it will not be completed soon but looking forward to the finished product!

Not saying you got it wrong but just posting up some info from PaulR33 Plus you may have a fake MAF - should have Nissan in the box (actually read the whole thread to get a better picture). http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?t=1431 (attached) Installing Z32 AFM.doc