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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. Grumpy! Of course it is no-where near you as I have no idea where you live. e.g. means " for example " - it is the sort of shop which could solve your problem
  2. Ask specific questions on Google: e.g. "will an S14 diff fit my R34 GT" "how to get a taller ratio diff for my R34" etc etc. You will not get the answer you need straight away but you will be pointed to threads (mainly on SAU) which by the time you have read them you will gather the information you need
  3. Gidday - got some pics of your build?
  4. When my Link was installed a new wire was run from the TPS to the Atessa ecu IIRC. It may be something is missing a signal - sorry I can't be more specific/
  5. Got a pic of your meter in the car?
  6. There is a small number in the UK - one had been converted to a GTR front. You may be able to contact them through the GTR UK site or if you trawl through the Wagoneers section below you may find them. Just had a look - there is actually a website http://www.stagea.co.uk/3.html and a facebook page https://www.facebook.com/NissanStageaSales
  7. Wow that's a low mileage - how about some pics? The rust under the mirrors is a standard feature I'm afraid. When you pull off the door linings you need to take out the moisture retaining material in that corner of the door.
  8. Or you could read the thread.
  9. If you have got an allegedly "just rebuilt" engine ask to see the receipts and see where the money was spent. As above I hope you haven't paid for the car.
  10. Yes its normal. Stock BOV is plumbed back... like most (all?) stock cars does not vent to atmosphere.
  11. Take it to a hydraulic hose repair place and see if they can do what you want. e.g. https://www.canlandthehosedoctor.ca/
  12. From this angle looks very similar to my S1. You have the advantage of being able to easily slot in a Nistune chip so with that and a manual (for now) boost tap you could add a little extra zip...
  13. Best way is to go to the RB25 turbo upgrade thread - that way you not only see what people have used but the kind of results from each approach. BTW when you say on a budget there are no miracle cures - its going to cost a few $KK
  14. When you say race car is it track only stripped and caged ? How about some pics and specs... And what city are you in?
  15. Ebay from China (or is this what you bought?) about $30 they look right although they have made in Taiwan on them. The Australian distributors for Mac are: http://www.macvalves.com/distributors/pacific/
  16. It occurs to me that a compression test might have been a good idea. Is that how you found the fault?
  17. Haven't got an RB30 right now but I believe the plugs are 14mm and the straight tapered rubber one would fit as well.
  18. See also: https://engineeredtoslide.com/2013/10/ets-drift-ute-straight-out-of-the-box/
  19. Couldn't find mine so I just bought a cheap Chinese no brand set for $30. It has a flexible hose with 10 12 14 and 18mm fittings and a straight and a bent tube with rubber tapers on the end. The scale goes to 20 bar and 300psi. I got mine from a local supplier (you may be able to as well) although they are on AU Ebay
  20. not to mention the definition of thongs...
  21. Over here we call them axles or half shafts...
  22. You may need to alter drive shaft length.
  23. Very nice! Stock under the bonnet?
  24. Your chart is very impressive! I think its more down to the turbo than the cams. My engine just had the stock R33 cams and a Garrett 3540 but built boost a little more quickly than yours but from 4000 on yours just takes off. I suspect that with different cams you would make boost earlier and you have power to burn at the top end. (Full disclosure - mines on an RB30/25 with a Sinco manifold)
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