KiwiRS4T

Is the starter turning the engine over? If not check your terminals and try a jump start. Your battery may be on the way out.

Take the CAS off and turn it by hand - feel for any roughness that indicates stuffed bearing - or better still swap in a known good one. Yellow Jackets (or red ones or anything but OEM or Splitfires) are a known weak point. Could still be fuel supply problem.

Who built the engine? If it wasn't you maybe one cylinder has broken rings. Try a compression test to reassure yourself.

Could be lots of things like perished coil loom, dodgy CAS, boost leak (pressurize the system to check).

I'm on the verge of extinction myself but really miss my S1 C34. I spent a fortune over the years turning it into a fairly quick sleeper daily driver, fun track car, while still using it as a work horse carrying 8 x 4 panels on the roof, massive deep freeze inside and towing car transporters. Sadly had to sell during a financial crisis to a plumber who bought it for his sons, one of whom wrote it off by wrapping it round a tree within a week ? (they are a strong car, he survived...).

I stand corrected - never got to those heights myself...

I had a set of those on my C34. With the colour of your car I think you could leave them as is for best appearance.

I had a set of those on my C34. With the colour of your car I think you could leave them as is for best appearance.

Don't forget incorrectly plumbed bleed valve or maladjusted waste gate and another possibility, faulty BOV (if in doubt try a run with it blocked off).

If you are going to have a mega KW build you could consider having O2 sensors for each cylinder. When you assemble your engine get your injectors cleaned and flow tested. New ones should have flow information available. Then regularly replace your fuel filters.

Go to a hydraulic hose place (yes they exist) and ask them for a piece of hose the right diameter that is temperature and fuel resistant. Doesn't need to be steel braided - tell them the application and they will find you something suitable. It will be expensive and you may have to pay for a metre minimum.

How fast does it go? Is it boosting but the gauge is dead? If really no boost you have dead turbo, incorrectly plumbed bleed valve, stuck or maladjusted waste gate or (most likely) massive leak. If you can't find the leak by following the path around to look for a missing clamp etc the best way is to pull the turbo outlet pipe off and make up a plug with a tyre valve in the middle. If it won't hold say 20 psi you should easily be able to tell where the air is escaping.

This is just silly. High performance engines are tuned with a specific fuel - 98, race fuel of various sorts, or if they have the appropriate sensors, flex fuel. No one is going to fill such a car with 91 I do not know most tuners. I have a great deal of trust in the two tuners I have used on the basis of their known reputations built on results . I know there are other good tuners about because I have seen their work although I have no direct experience with them . Of course some tuners are not so good. The way to avoid them is never to go to a tuner because they are the closest or the cheapest but to do your research first.

Yes it can happen. Engine life depends on quality of build, quality of tune and how it is used or abused. Then there is always an element of luck. Have a read of the "report that engine failure " thread. This is not to suggest that it is likely but from my limited experience of track days RBs seem to be the most common cars being pushed on to trailers with dead engines. (To be honest that's two cars - one GTR and one Cefiro). Not trying to scare you - there is a lot you can do to prevent failure but be at least mentally prepared for the worst.

I would take the car (or photos) to a person who builds approved cages for some quotes to help you decide.

Read above for the answer (and get a proper gauge).

Yes plenty. It is certainly do-able - refer the turbo upgrade threads. But it is expensive and can end in tears (engine failure). The question is how much do you want /need it? And that's entirely up to the OP.

Does your gauge have x100 on it somewhere? That would be one bar.

I am sure Steve is right. But if they haven't been messed with the RB20DE injectors should be yellow (RB25DE should be red) . If you can find a way to measure it the 25 stroke is 2mm more than the 20 at 71.7 (the 20 is 69.7 and the 25 bore is 86mm and the 20 78mm.Doubt very much anyone would put a 25 head on a 20 but who knows....

Its an RB20DET ecu and has a Type 2 Nistune board for RB25DET. If it is in good working order use this one. You cannot use your old R33 ECU.

No and don't keep opening new threads - stick to one.

The fact that the ecu is not original but for an AWD auto would support the theory that its from a Stagea and an RB20 at that. You would think that if it came from an RB25 the matching ecu would have been fitted.

No. Cannot Nistune an R33 ecu. What type Nistune chip have you got? That will determine what ecu you need for it. You may be learning the hard way - buy stuff that you know will meet your needs not just things that seem cheap.

According to this site http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=81&cartype=&fig=226 your ecu is for an RB20DE auto AWD That is not to say that this is the cause of your running problems.

If you modify the car to any extent the auto will die so manual conversion should be a priority ahead of an aftermarket computer. If you stick a Haltech in your stock S1 you won't even notice any advantage for your $3000+ expenditure (and I am sceptical that it will happen any time soon).