KiwiRS4T

Actually Just Jap do list some: https://justjap.com/engine/intake/cold-air-box-kits/sri-cold-airbox-kit-nissan-skyline-sb42-15a-red.html and https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SPP-Air-Filter-Box-Enclosure-suits-Nissan-Skyline-R33-R34-Stagea-C34/292610687846?hash=item4420f4c366:g:TBYAAOSwJo5bKdV0

I think people generally make their own out of e.g. perspex So what was the compression after all that?

Lots of aftermarket options from Davies Craig 14in $225 down to free postage from China for $35

Depends on how much its lowered and what size wheels you have. Best get under it with a tape measure.

get some cheap $2 glasses or a magnifying app for your phone

And stick to one thread so people can get a picture of what's going on and what you have already asked/been told.

Yes you need to ventilate the crank case but you need to employ an air/oil separator or catch can or both. Read say the last half of the oil control thread to see what people have actually done to achieve comprehensive oil control. A dry sump system is ideal but an expense that can be avoided even by dedicated drift machines with the proper measures.

This one does not have provision for traction control so I don't know how that will affect the throttle. BTW (I don't have Nissan Fast) but Google seems to suggest that its a manual ecu.

Really you need the appropriate loom i.e. a S2 Stagea loom or a R34 loom. When you say RB25DET injectors and turbo were they from a neo or an R33? Seriously how far do you live from work? Can you borrow a pushbike? I suspect that without help this will not be a quick fix. The neo DE cam has less lift than the turbo cam and a different VCT changeover point so it should be able to run but not optimally. Ideally you would get a nistune chip for the ecu so that you can tune the car once you get it running. How are you controlling boost? What is the plumbing to the turbo actuator? Take a few pics of the engine set up and post them here.

So do your models still have dipsticks or they the unserviceable kind? If its got a dipstick follow the correct level indicator on the dipstick (one for hot engine one for cold). Most cars require the engine to be running when you check it (in park of course).

Almost certainly the same thing. If you look on US Ebay under 75T01 and enlarge the image you will see a sticker with 5L300 on it. Kudos Motorsports have them for sale (as 5L300).

Just a very long shot....have you checked the atf level since the oil change? May need a top up?

No that sounds like you did it properly. Its rare that the block needs machining and as you have checked it there should be no need. Look elsewhere for the oil leak. Check your receipts to see if the cam cover gaskets were renewed. Some people re-use the old one and don't have a problem but of course they may leak. The bits for the half moon need renewing and usually sealing with something.

RBs should do 300,000 if looked after (and with a bit of luck). Get some engine cleaner and get the area of the leak completely clean and dry so that you can see where the oil is coming from. Ideally you would find out why the head gasket failed rather than hope that its fixed. Did you get the head planed and crack tested and check the block with a straight edge?

Hi Nice car . I guess you don't have any trouble getting parts for it!

Yes EFI also list a 1650 https://www.nzefi.com/product/bosch-1650ccmin-e85-compatible-top-feed-fuel-injector/ Although no doubt they are available from an Aussie supplier as well.

Something like this should do the job: https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/

A quick look at TradeMe shows NZ asking prices for an R33 GTR ranging from $50k to $65K (five cars). R34 GTRs are one at $132k, 2 @ $150k and one at $181K!! Just to complete the picture R32 GTRs : One at $57k, 2 @ $64k, 2 @ $68k, and one at $84k What they will actually sell for, who knows?!

You can buy special cleaners for wheels but regardless you will need a small brush and a lot of hard work.

I would guess that its wired incorrectly. Have a look at some of the guides in the DIY section or post up a diagram. Please specify what gauge wire you are using.

BTW how are you getting a tune? Have you installed an aftermarket ECU?

This was my 3rd C34

Why are you running BPR 7 ? Would have thought 6 would be better on stock boost. Don't know if that is your problem though.

If your VCT is working R33 changes at 4500 R34 at 5400

There is a huge difference between the C34 and M35 Stageas - chalk and cheese. Read the thread above this one helpfully titled "Buyer's Guide -the C34 Stagea" and then a bit further up "Summary of the M35 info Uber Thread"