KiwiRS4T

I see you have a Holset HX40 which can certainly make the power. Do you have any dyno charts?

Was just about to ask the same...what turbo and have you got a dyno chart to show us?

450 kw at the wheels is very ambitious for an RB25. You will need a massive turbo (neither of the ones you have suggested) and it will be massively laggy. Have a look at the RB25 upgrade thread in the forced induction section to see what others have done - and start at the end for some more modern ideas.

can you not see it?

Not sure what you are asking??? Do you want to know about previous owners of the car pictured or how to put a GTR front on a Stagea?

If you still have the two cars in your sig you can just compare the fittings and see if they look sufficiently the same.

The S2 has a much more adequate trans cooler than the S1. But if your oil is old and dirty some fresh atf would be a good idea.

Yep just checked the website - it says integrated 4 bar map sensor. One of the good things about Link - continuous development and life time guarantee. Also on-line or phone support. So check with your supplier that they haven't got old stock. You can buy direct from Link (although you won't get it any cheaper that way).

Speedo drive -

That was 7 years ago - just google for some suggestions.

Bought My Link about 10 years ago. I guess they have upgraded the built in MAP sensor.

OK here's a towbar but you can do it differently depending on how strong you want it: https://www.facebook.com/StageaParts/photos/looking-for-a-c34-towbar-pm-us-we-have-2-in-stock/743743652461583/

If you have got very high compression you may be able to get away with it with E85 and a good tune. Talking about wallet drainers over 5 years I spent over $40,000 on a C34 Stagea - I could get quite a good RS6 for that now!

They don't like what they found and are avoiding you?

Depends on what model of car you have...

Yes. Take to auto trans shop and empty your wallet. Have a read

If you have the same manual as I have you will see that it is somewhat edited from the full manual - probably to save in translation time/money. The thing is that the RB25 and 26 information is mainly the same. The main difference in numbers is just the extra stroke of the 26. If you scroll right to the end of the manual (well mine anyway) to sections SD6 to SD11 you will get the exact numbers for cylinder bores etc for RB20E, RB25DE, RB25DET as well as RB26DETT

In general people are trying to get rid of their fly by wire rather than the other way round but I guess someone will have done it. I see you are determined to spend up to $3K to avoid upgrading your AFM. You will need the Link, a MAP sensor ( the built in one does not have enough range for serious boost), an IAT sensor, boost solenoid and an auxiliary loom. You could save money by getting the G4+ Atom (see link) for about $1K less but you have to wire it yourself. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/listing-2201107555.htm?rsqid=d683fe41f0a84951a675619be37d672e-003 You can also save a few bucks by not buying the Link boost solenoid as it is just a re-labelled Mac valve (35A AAA DDBA 1BA) which you can buy elsewhere for less. Also I used a GM MAP sensor instead of the Link one. Good luck!

Interesting to see how it goes. Hope you kept the RB30 pistons - you may want to put them back in.

If the n/a pump is the same as GTST then the Walbro will be fine.

Mine was an AWD and it was a while ago so I forget but go to the Wagoneers section and click on the Stagea D I Y's, How To's, & F Y I's go down to transmission and there is a thread for conversion parts and another on how to do it ...have a read!

Stock power. You are looking at spending around $5K Power is not cheap.

So how did the compression test go?

Just the obvious ones - treat with rust killer and spray paint with a can.