KiwiRS4T

How about swapping the hoses back to where they should be?

I do but it could be a bit far for you if you are in Aus, the UK, the US or Christchurch. Put your hometown up.

I doubt that the ebay type have had any serious testing so if you know what you need and could draw a design maybe a surf board maker could build you one.

Was it off a S1 Stagea (R33 engine) or S2 with Neo?

The sub key may not be able to unlock the glove box or boot.

There are diesel powered cars that will do over 1000km without refueling and currently there are no electric cars that can match this but it is stupid to make wider use of electric cars a political issue . Alternatives to IC engines are necessary and inevitable. There are challenges to be overcome but consider this: Many years ago my then boss bought a "portable phone" which came in a small suitcase and cost $5,000 ...about half the price of a medium car. Today for $200 you can buy a phone the size of a cigarette packet (another dinosaur!) and with more computing power than desk tops had not too long ago. Never mind Tesla - the Chinese will soon have millions of electric cars on the road and India won't be far behind. All the major manufacturers are urgently trying to get electric (not hybrid) versions of all their models. This is without any doubt the way of the future although much work remains to be done.

Google will tell you more than a Nissan forum cares to.

All's well that ends well. One lesson to be learned is that its very hard to guarantee a good tune. The tuner might be over -rated, or a shop with a good reputation may hand the job to an employee who is not up to par (although one would like to think that such a person would have their work checked). One thing is for sure a good tune takes time and money!

This guy makes stronger gear sets with different ratios but you might need a Japanese speaker to figure his site out! http://www.ag-y.com/tuning/mission.html#ssm690 This is going back a few years: Auto Gallery Yokohama gearsets (rebuilt boxes). yes there are upgraded synchro boxes available. I have one in my 32. made by auto gallery yokohama (Koizumi) it's a good box. i've used it for about 5 years with no drama. you can do a mix of the OS box and AGY bits. DJR81, they have their own double cone synchros. they also do various different close ratio gear sets too just like OS Giken. they do a nice transfer case overhaul too. ratio choice: version 1 １= ２,６１１　　　　　　　 ２=１,７３３　　　　　　　　　 ３=１,２８９　　　　　　　　　 ４=１,０００　　　　　　　　 ５ =０,７５２　　　　　　　　 OR (standard ratios I think?): １　３,２１４　 ２　１,９２5 ３　１,３０２　 ４　１,０００ 5　０,７５２　 They have some optional 5th gear choices too: 5 ０，８４２ 5 ０，８２６ 5 ０，８００ version 2 close ratio box is: １　１,９０３ ２　１,４７６ ３　１,１８６ ４　１,０００

Does the oil get any hotter? That's just over 100 which is not exactly panic stations. A good synthetic will stand 120 Deg C (which is too hot for comfort). If it keeps on rising from there (as per your pic) you have got a problem. Can you get your AFRs checked to see if you are running lean for some reason? Or you might be able to discern that from the condition of the plugs.

There are quite a few conversion threads so go through them and make a list of all the things you will need - many conversion kits do not come with e.g. gear lever (c/w knob and boot) centre console, complete clutch including flywheel, clutch pedal and hydraulics, handbrake, speedo drive, the list goes on so make sure you write everything down (it will be a long list) and compare it with what you get with the kit. Here they are asking 2,500 to 3,500 for a kit and then you don't always get all that you need. Most importantly make sure its a proper RB25 "big box". I converted my C34 Stagea because manual ones were/are so rare but if I were you I would keep looking for a manual Skyline.

I didn't say that. I said if you pull your plugs out that will give you a clue as to what is going on and also the opportunity to do a compression test on the engine.

For an overheating car my first port of call is always the radiator. Take it to a radiator specialist who can take the top and bottom tanks off and clean the thing properly and report if the core is stuffed. If its ok a new top tank is often called for - especially if its plastic. For a new radiator unless you are track racing I like stock the best. Same for radiator cap and thermostat. If you must get an aftermarket radiator make sure you can fit the stock fan and shroud as otherwise you will lose a lot of cooling. ' FWIW I have heard bad things about Mishimoto radiators and their caps. If you are 100% sure of these basics including the block flush and proper bleeding (all of which need doing from time to time anyway on an old car) and you are still overheating then none of this effort is wasted and you can look elsewhere for problems. Also check your engine when it is at max temps with a laser thermometer to make sure it really is hot and its not your gauges that are at fault. Have you checked the oil for water and vice versa? Observe the radiator with the cap off for evidence of bubbling when you give it a rev? Pulling the plugs will give you some clues and also a chance to do a compression test.

^^^what he said. People changing to electric thermo fans often come a cropper.

You can install it yourself with a little effort: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/lambda-oxygen-sensor-suit-nissan-skyline-25gt-25gt-25gt-rb25de-rb25det-p-187.html

No the VQ25DET is smaller obviously and only has the same power as the 350DE although I guess you could wind it up a bit. At $5500 the Raptor kit is a lot cheaper than the Stillen kit (at US$7,500) although the latter is a proven performer.

Maybe something is causing your car to run lean?

Get one from a wrecker that doesn't have a bad amount of play. e.g. $27 from Pick a Part Or email Nissan wreckers country wide - fan plus freight should be less than $100

That's a push type clutch but your photo doesn't tell me anything about your gearbox (some people convert from pull to push type e.g.) . Some other more experienced person with an eagle eye may be able to tell what gearbox it is.

What do you mean "codes" plural? You only came up with one: 84 And which manual came up with " Engine system component fuel condition " and what's that got to do with your ABS? Resetting codes won't fix the underlying problem that gave rise to the code.

I have no experience of it - is it just a chip tune rather than an ECU? Any tune is only as good as its tuner but some hardware has many more options and possibilities than other. I lost interest at the point where users were installing an SAFC to "fine tune" the tune! Looks like a Nistune chip would be an advance or if you can afford it a proper ECU such as a Link or Haltech.

Dr Google says RB code 84 is: Automatic Transmission Diagnostic Communication Line

You don't say what kind of car you have. Never heard of an LSD which was "open in 1st" nor that a change of oil will fix it. What would I do? What I did for my car was to buy a rear end from an R32 GTR which gave me a mechanical LSD, GTR axles and brakes and in your case would do away with the HiCas. Or you could just get a known good or new LSD and a proper HiCas delete kit.

I'll have a look at it. But you don't say where the car is so if its not in Auckland you'll have to pay me to travel. But seriously it could be a lot of things. Best to eliminate things one at a time rather than the scattergun approach. Test the IACV and make sure its working properly and then move on. Have you correctly installed the FPR? Have you checked the CAS?

Hi are these cars just starting to be legal in the States? Seem to be a few more appearing. Are your cars all road legal or are some just track cars?