KiwiRS4T

Why not go to an engineers supply store and buy a bolt for $1 or 2 ? They will supply in any length you want.

Just get new shocks and springs that are not too hard.

Don't be shy use a pry bar to separate them!

Redline are offering brand new RB25DET gearboxes for (NZ)$3500

Before you buy a whole new system try fitting a resonator in the middle.

If you have guessed the position of the CAS guess again and advance it a little and see what happens.

Increasing the pipe size to 2.5in increases by over 55% the amount of air needed to fill it. Whether this is responsible for your increase in lag I couldn't say....

Just checking - your S1 is AWD - is your Neo motor and gearbox also AWD? ECU pinouts are not that different. Here are some (not all may still work): Pinouts R34_ecu.pdf Pinouts WGC34_Series_1_-_STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_ translated.xls R34 pinouts text version.odt R34 Pinouts with wire colours.ods R34Pinouts_definitive.xlsx

Surprised to hear that - you should be able to retain ABS Atessa and AC ok. Post in the Stagea (Wagoneers) section for more info.

Post up the chart. Stock boost will be 10 or 12 or so depending on the setup. Boost number on the chart should be the actual boost.

You may find that the best shops are so busy that they won't call you - you need to go there and make an appointment (you can check out the shop while you are there).

Of course they don't. NEO25T's high tech diagram explains it perfectly. The pump is run from the power from the battery positive which flows from terminal 30 to 87, through the pump and back to earth...when the relay is activated by the power coming from the ignition source through 85 to 86 (or the other way round as you will have discovered it matters little) and then to the ECU where it is earthed as with most things connected to the ECU. BTW the best place for a fuse is between the battery and #30

If you did a search on this site you would find multiple tutorials on how to do this. I will link you to one and if you can't/won't follow it then best to go to a sparky lest you blow up your car (and yourself...natural selection in action?).

Gidday! What modifications does it have already?

Too small. Don't need breathers. As above read the oil control thread if you have a problem (maybe start half way through): https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?tab=comments#comment-2039323

Where's the abuse? Road testing with very conservative driving.

It is theoretically possible but most unlikely that the wire will break and short out in the middle of the night. It is more likely to break while you are driving it and you can do something about it. You should be more worried about Brexit and Global climate change.

Advice above stands. Look for a cheap flight, pay cash on sight and drive it home.

I ran 3deg neg camber on the track and it was great - definitely faster through the corners. Having easily adjustable arms the theory was to return to neg 1 for the road but since you effectively need a full alignment with each change it didn't happen. So it was cr*p on the road - skittish and chewing out tyres. If you can manage a lot of track time in a short period it might be worth doing but otherwise best to go with a street friendly set up.

A good tune will take a total of up to 8 hours depending on the variables (adjustable cam gears etc). The tuner will want to keep it overnight to optimise the cold start and cold running. I have never heard of a tuner breaking things to create more work but then you are in England!

Do you have the appropriate ECU and loom?

You may find when your power level goes up that you need to directly wire the Walbro or it can run out of puff. Should be simple when you have put the battery in the boot.

If you have a Link it makes sense to use it to control boost (with a Mac solenoid). You only need one boost setting (why would you have an unsafe one?). Limit boost with your accelerator. Yes the Neo has GTR rods. 300KW should be fun.

Its quite normal to overfill for track use so don't panic if you drop a bit more in. But it makes sense to put about 4L in and then dip it. Assume that you will replace the oil filter every time.

Not assuming anything about your level of knowledge so just for the record no RB ECUs are tunable. You will need as a minimum a device to interrrupt the signal to or from the ECU or a replacement chip (Nistune) or an aftermarket ECU