KiwiRS4T

Get the size right and you should be able to buy them for less than that from an engineering supply store.

Guarantee you'll bang your head against a wall and say "why didn't I listen" if you go with 4.3!

Yes especially as OP is not building a track car. Open road cruising at 3000 rev/min will soon become tiresome...even 4.1 is about 2700. Look for a complete GTR rear end ( I found one for $1200) and then you get the LSD, the axles, alloy hubs and 2 pot brakes.

The R33 was really huge - which they belatedly realised and so they made the R34 75mm shorter.

Waste of space! Didn't the original one have two R35 engines one each end? OK maybe just one: https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/nissan-juke-r-first-drive-review

With 550hp it will seem too low. Open road cruising will be tiresome at almost 3000 rpm. But I notice you have yet to take delivery of the car. As everyone else will say - don't do it! If you want 550hp buy a turbo car. If you are on your P plates buy a Corolla and save up for the GTT.

If you are going to have huge power definitely 4.1 front and rear (and no, they cannot be different). In fact for a road car I would have liked the R34 GTR 3.54 to 1 ratio but if you are tracking it I guess the 4.1 will do it. The titanium exhaust is super expensive and you may not like the noise it makes - just get a custom steel one made up. I used the GTR BM57 M/C although something slightly smaller would probably be fine.

Have you tried DBA? https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/nissan/dba# You'll have to give them a ring as they don't list all the sizes.

I had the previous model...beautiful car with its 2.8i engine 4 wheel discs and independent suspension it was way ahead of the other "family" cars of the day.

Yep JDM cars only.

Contact these people and get a price on rebuilding the fronts: https://fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/service-alignment

Won't be the filter. If you are worried get the Nismo ones which are smaller but allegedly more efficient.

In my old age i just want a car to go fast and handle well while looking stock. I spent tens of thousands making a Stagea go fast but now I am trying to buy a low mileage C6 RS6 which I can get from 426KW to 500 kw just with a $2000 chip and tune!

Exactly. That's the last thing you should do?

Not many stock skylines in NZ and I'm not sure there is a great premium for unmodified examples anyway. The problem with unmodified Skylines is that they are generally quite slow compared to most modern cars.

Ring(land)s Try compression test Watch what happens when you rev the engine with the radiator cap off

That's true of the Freddy plenums so probably for yours too. The alternatives are: new fuel rail and fpr or an adapter for your fpr

What he said⬆️⬆️

My experience is limited to NZ but it will be broadly similar. Yes you will have to find a place that is licensed to do the work. No you do not have to remove all the mods - the idea is to certify them as safe/legal but it would be a good idea to try to find out which mods are absolutely not permitted so that you can remove them for the inspection (and maybe put them back afterwards if they are not too obvious!).

Step 1 Post up your location. I am sure it varies from place to place and you will be looking for recommendations for places near you. Step 2 Do some research and check whether you have anything which is never going to be compliant and remove it. Look up people who are qualified (there should be a list) and see if their charges differ. Take into account the experience of other members in choosing a certifier. Make sure your car is clean and doesn't have an obviously excessively noisy exhaust.

Stock BOV plumbed in? See if you can swap it out for a known good one.

Get on the phone - he's a busy man and very in demand.

These are the numbers for my RB25DET with 143,000km (at least) before I broke some ring lands and went RB30/25 (NB at this point it was running ok...but it didn't last!) 2012.04.06 EHD341 Leak Down 001.bmp

Experienced operator should be able to tell by listening (with stethoscope if available)

I doubt that Sinco has any sitting on the shelf - each one is a custom job. Email him and tell him what year and model 240Z and maybe include some photos. I am sure he has seen one before... From the website: Our manifolds are made to order, because of this the time frames for each manifold material type & finish are listed below. - STEAMTUBE-MATT BLACK = 7-12 working days - PROCOAT-CERMAKROME-SILVER = 14-16 working days - STAINLESS & BURN EDITION = 14-16 working days