KiwiRS4T

This is with the .63 rear on my car -with VCT, Link ECU, mac valve, 50mm Synapse wastegate, Sinco manifold :

The answer is its not worth putting in the head "drain" but possibly worth putting in the restrictors. Skim through the oil control thread but you will find the info you need in the last 20 or 30 pages. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?tab=comments#comment-2039323

I put a 3582R on my RB30 Stagea but used .63 rear for max take off (heavy wagon) but would have preferred a .82 for a little more grunt on the track. Today I would use a modern turbo. Unusually a Wellington workshop did a back to back comparison on the same car (Skyline with RB30) and got the following results: .63 rear at 18 psi = 350kw .82 rear at 18 psi 375kw I would suggest the .82 for you as it would be easy to get 400kw out of it and for a street car would drive better than with a 1.00 rear. PS just noticed you only want 400hp not kw. You will do that with a GT3076 easily.

Driveshaft people should be able to fit universals - after all they can do it on cars with no circlips by machining existing yoke. Ask around for other driveshaft specialists.

Those readings are what you would expect after a hard track session - not just driving down the road. Get a temperature gun and see if the engine is as hot as the gauges suggest - they could be wrong. And persevere with your efforts to get an experienced RB mechanic - the good ones are always busy.

Don't know what is meant by the South coast of NSW but Nissan would not be one of the places I would let loose on my car. If you ask I am sure you will find at least a couple of shops in Sydney that have expertise in the RB

Hello...I spy a front mounted intercooler there - any other mods?

How far are you from the tuner? I would be taking it straight back.

I am pretty sure that an R33 ECU is quite different to an R34 neo one. If you do enough googling you should be able to confirm that. Put it this way if I were you I would be looking for an R34 neo ecu and loom,. A quick look at the pinout diagrams would tend to support this view. BTW what do you mean by a series 2 Neo engine?

Pull it apart and clean it - if the bore is smooth and not pitted you can fit a kit but if its rough take it to a brake specialist as above and they can re-sleeve it.

No but they are not rocket science. RIPS would be the standard to aim at but lots of people make them. Mine was made by HyTech engines in Manukau City. They are not a bolt on affair - there is work to do on the bottom of the block as well to make then fit. They used to be around $600

Some Chinese made trains delivered a couple of years ago were found to have asbestos. The Chinese manufacturers had to send workers over to remove it.

Depends entirely on your requirements. If it is a street car "a light touch up" will do nothing for you. How much power do you want ? How fast do you want to spin your engine? Street, drag strip or circuit racing? An all out race build will be no fun to drive on the street. Any head work that is effective will cost an arm and a leg. But regardless of cam choice adjustable cam gears will give you more tuning options.

Well yes. It would be very easy for Reimax to make their gears with a smaller clearance so I assume they know what they are doing. You have reported that the length of the crank nose was the problem last time ...not the amount of clearance.

So have you measured a stock pump? What downside do you fear?

In NZ a company called Gull sells what they call "Force 10 " which uses 10% ethanol to make 98 RON

Sadly likely to be a piston - possibly broken ring lands. RBs will run surprisingly well on 5 cylinders. Yes do a leak down test to confirm.

What is the car? Considered changing your diff ratio?

Looking good! (BTW aluminium wheel nuts genuine or otherwise are not generally approved).

Wow I'll have to start exporting them from NZ to USA! Presumably you can register LHD cars (steering wheel on right)?

Some R34 prices from NZ (these are asking prices - don't know what people are actually paying) $110k, $105, $119, $135, $136 and $140 (yes there are a lot for sale ...good luck with those prices!) R33 GTRs are $45k and $59K. A low mileage 2008 GTR is $60! https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1730807935.htm?rsqid=41d7dd5ec144454daa6a8feac1a9ed56 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1736379754.htm?rsqid=41d7dd5ec144454daa6a8feac1a9ed56 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1724966254.htm?rsqid=41d7dd5ec144454daa6a8feac1a9ed56 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1716864123.htm?rsqid=41d7dd5ec144454daa6a8feac1a9ed56 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1716863835.htm?rsqid=41d7dd5ec144454daa6a8feac1a9ed56 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1726705032.htm?rsqid=41d7dd5ec144454daa6a8feac1a9ed56

I don't think ECUtek has the capability to "cut the throttle" ...it only reports what it sees.

You need "anti freeze" in your system to protect against corrosion. Have you thoroughly bled the cooling system? Google for instructions if you are not sure.

Seems to be a Nissan feature. I had a Teanna and a Maxima and they both started reading M/T with about 1/3 tank left and then pick up and then read empty again.

Guru or not you are not going to get an extra 100KW with those "mods". You will at least need to set your boost to 10 to get a noticeable increase. Front mount and better exhaust will help...