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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. Drop in an LS7 or put some bald, skinny tyres on the back.
  2. Does your car start and run? Did the CAS come with the head i,e, is it the correct one for the head - R33 head and ecu? Power at pin 3 and earth at pin 4?
  3. Pull a wheel off and see what the offset is. Design of the wheels also affects whether or not they will clear the brakes. Ideally do not buy without test fitting.
  4. Your skills and knowledge are amazing. Interested to know what the VQ sounds like - be good to have someone video a 1/4 mile run when you are back on the track!
  5. What Duncan said - you are looking at AWD cars (GTR GTS4) whereas you probably have a 2wd. maybe this is what you need: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/diffs-axles/listing-1670642547.htm?rsqid=17cabf67503c4667a822c32a1cb71fd4 or in NSW: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/For-Nissan-Pair-Rear-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Kits-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-Silvia-S13-200SX/131825192679?hash=item1eb164cee7:g:90sAAOSwZqZaJjgY
  6. I had a set of Nismo shocks on My C34 - they were rebadged Bilsteins and worked fine.
  7. No ECU is really "plug and play" - some can supply a tune that will get you to the dyno but every car is different and you will still need a tuner.
  8. Who's Jackie? Get Kelford to supply you with what you want. https://www.kelfordcams.com/nz/
  9. Original owner has wasted money on a FFP and a fuel regulator when what he NEEDED was bigger injectors and a tunable ecu...either a Link, adaptronic etc or for less money and a little investigation a Nistune set up.
  10. Try the bluetooth device in another car to see if it might be faulty
  11. Hi...post up some pics! Learn the basics first - regular service items - and don't go buying things until you are quite sure what benefits they will bring...
  12. Either just leave it alone or put the stock cams back in. Looking at my boost curve 1 bar is achieved at 3500 and that's with a .63 front so you are doing pretty well.
  13. Or rather than continuing to throw parts (and money) at it go to NZEFI - they should be able to sort it quickly.
  14. Some people buy Poncams just for the lumpy idle (not saying this is you but maybe that's the market they are aimed at).. So put the stockers back in. Also road test all your mods - do not rely on Dyno charts alone - they are useful but do not always tell you what you will feel on the road.
  15. If you pull the plugs out after attempting to start you should be able to tell which if any have petrol on them.
  16. If the half moon is broken off what is turning the CAS? What kind of head did you fit?
  17. Why have you left the pcv valve hole unblocked? Where is the catch can vented to - to turbo intake or to atmosphere? Rear "vent " to crankcase could be useless or worse - conducting pressure to the top. Why did your turbo seals blow? Oil temps seem excessive. What did your tune look like esp AFRs and did you measure EGTs?
  18. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92233-stagea-wheel-dimensions/
  19. I put an GT3540 on my RB30 with a .63 a/r turbine. It accelerated well from lower revs but made only 314AWKW (although would have done more with E85 and more development - see torque chart below - but I concluded that the vehicle wasn't suited to traffic light drags. Yes if I revved hard and booted it I could leave that Honda Civic for dead but the amount of drama required seemed too much. My automatic Maxima 3.5 with only 200kw seems much more suited for everyday traffic.
  20. Looks flash! Let us know how it works out in practice.
  21. Looks great! Use a brandy glass rather than a champagne flute.
  22. Throttle body and plenum should be fine for more power than you will make.
  23. How urgent? There are a couple of suppliers on Ebay.
  24. Looks like your charcoal canister (part of the emission control system).
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