Jump to content
SAU Community

KiwiRS4T

Contributor
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    9,451

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    There is a section above on what to look for in a C34 Stagea. The main faults you are likely to encounter are: Serious rust under the mirrors. Dreadful thirst for petrol. I have had three C34s - they are a fun hobby and I spent $50k on the last one (the car was only $4.5k) making it go fast and handle. The trouble with the 260 is that it is not really all that fast and you will end up spending a lot of money if you have a need for speed. I would suggest you look at a few PNM35s with the VQ350NA - a nice car which with the right wheels, tyres and suspension can be great to drive and also reliable and not too thirsty. In any case have a good read through the Stagea (wagoneers) section to see what people do and you may be able to buy one from a member that has had all the necessary or desirable work done on it.
  2. KiwiRS4T
    Or you could cut and shut the GTR box.
  3. KiwiRS4T
    Post your VIN up in this section:
  4. KiwiRS4T
    A lot depends on the design of the wastegate. The Synapse wastegate has four ports - two above and two below the diaphragm and different combinations can get close to the desired boost levels leaving the Mac valve and ecu with just a trimming job. i saw a wastegate a while back with no springs and a solid piston instead of a diaphragm so it was all done with the balance of the air supplies (with a mac valve and ecu).
  5. KiwiRS4T
    R34 GTR 324 x 32 R32 GTR 296 x 32
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Whole rear end including axles from R33 GTR
  7. KiwiRS4T
    Get someone under the car and see if the fork is doing what you think...i.e not moving for the first half of pedal travel. maybe its just doing what it should ...taking up the free travel before it bites. You may be used to the damper affecting the feel of the clutch.
  8. KiwiRS4T
    No longer selling - available on TradeMe NZ or for bigger price on Ebay.
  9. KiwiRS4T
    I replaced the stockers on my AWD Stagea with GTT brakes (a big improvement) but then went to 330mm D2s. I was running Rays Volk TE37 at 17 x 9 and also ran some random 17 x 8.5in at the track and both sets cleared the D2s so If you are having so much trouble I suggest you get some other wheels (or some spacers). I did get some 18s later off a Nissan GT coupe Sport Edition (see pic) and also a pic of my track wheels (don't know what they were - just called "M" s
  10. KiwiRS4T
    Its not better to weld an open diff. Viscous LSDs are better replaced with a mechanical LSD
  11. KiwiRS4T
    Never mind what a few posters say. GTRs come standard with a mechanical LSD and I put one in my Stagea and there was no "putting the clutch in to turn tight corners" nonsense nor was it at all harsh. Some brand new aftermarket LSDs need a little running in but that would be nothing compared to the headache of trying to install a V-spec LSD. oops advice a year late I see
  12. KiwiRS4T
    If as per your heading you have a V spec then the rear LSD is computer controlled so if its single wheeling you need to fix that first. I believe the V spec attessa control is different as well but don't know much about the V spec. Again you may be able to extract fault codes from the relevant ecus.
  13. KiwiRS4T
    Attessa is a mystery to most. Theoretically if you can find the Attessa ECU (on a Stagea its in the boot wall LHS on a Skyline it may be under the parcel shelf) there is a light which can be made to produce fault codes. The British GTR site has a few articles on the Attessa. BTW there are two bleeding nipples - the one at the back of the transfer case and another above the (rear) diff.
  14. KiwiRS4T
    and some pics would be great! (some of us don't even facebook never mind instagram).
  15. KiwiRS4T
    Just to be sure - how much oil did you put in to refill it?
  16. KiwiRS4T
    I got 330mm D2s as well. The stock pads wear out fairly quickly on the track but as you say there is a reasonable choice of replacements (not so much with the rings) including Pagid which served me very well.
  17. KiwiRS4T
    The only ones worth fitting are GTT or GTR. You may have to remove the olives or trim the rear backing plates in some cases and there are two diameters of bolts but that is easily fixed. All the info is in the thread. Use Google to search.
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Bolt on
  19. KiwiRS4T
    Don't do it - old car. You will need to spend megabucks to make it interesting to drive.
  20. KiwiRS4T
    Sorry front shocks are missing a digit...should be 56110-RSC45ENP
  21. KiwiRS4T
    OK how about $90 (were cheap at 110)
  22. KiwiRS4T
    My set up: drilled and tapped nipple in compressor housing going to mac valve controlled by Link through to Synapse 50mm wastegate. Result pretty flat boost curve (attached). Can you swap out your wastegate to test it?
  23. KiwiRS4T
    When you say brakes you mean pads and rotors which are not interchangeable. Have a look in the thread for some part numbers. If you could find a complete set of GTR or GTT brakes it would make life a little easier (and improve your stopping power). As for lowering springs you can use Teins (if you can get them): Front: Tein F-SIN78-010311-HCC Rear Tein R-SIN79-010382-HCC which is what I used on my S1 (the later S1 had the neo engine). The shocks I used were Nismo labelled Bilsteins but I don't know if these numbers will mean much today: Front: Nismo 6110-RSC45ENP Rear: Nismo 53210-RSC45ENP
  24. KiwiRS4T
    If you are in Europe the short answer is Bilsteins. The long answer is: As for brakes you may be able to find some part numbers in here:' https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61606-stagea-parts-list/
  25. KiwiRS4T
    Doesn't really help you but the only VQ30 into Stagea swap I know about used a Link ecu and manual box from a Z (so RWD)
×
×
  • Create New...