KiwiRS4T

Yep this is in the manual. Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug). In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to a loom with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket. Disconnect it. Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode. You need to do this every time you start the car. To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go. And if you plan to do this a lot you can put a switch in somewhere. But if you plan to do a day's drifting better to remove the front drive shaft.

You can buy a single plate clutch to hold 320KW at any brake and clutch shop. I got an Exedy heavy duty clutch and its fine. Or if you want a Nismo twin plate they are available in all the main centres or buy direct from Japan

This is true of old school injectors but not the better injectors for sale now.

Just follow my instructions. If you think you know better why ask?

Every time I do this (every five years or so) I have to figure it out again. pin 30 power from battery (correct) pin 85 also requires power (can take from pin 30 or the original power source) pin 87 goes to horns (correct) pin 86 goes to horn button This applies to the usual set up where the horn works by earthing through the horn button i.e. the horn button is not supplying power it is completing the circuit by earthing.

Regardless the Bosch pumps are very noisy.

Here's a kit ready made: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475354-audi-r8-ignition-coil-kit-motorsport-harness-free-domestic-shipping-promotion-5-0-ignite/

You have already discovered that Yellow Jackets are no good. Stock Nissan or Splitfires are recommended but I believe the R8 coils will also work fine. Sorry can't help with the wiring - try googling... I am sure there are some guides somewhere. I am assuming you have some kind of aftermarket ecu or a Nistine chip

Looks good! What kind of power is it making?

Go the Garrett since you have it. Should be fine with .82 I put a 3540 on an RB30 using a .63 and wish I had gone a bigger rear. It picked up really quickly but ran out of puff too early.

R32 and R33 attessas are quite different. if you want to run the R33 safely remove the front drive shaft.

I am picking your car is not too hot. If your water temp gauge is not registering hot then your oil temp gauge is probably not accurate especially if it is still the stocker. Check with one of those laser guns to see how hot things really are.

Siting of oil cooler is not so good. Do you have a good aftermarket oil temp gauge? What are your water temps doing? Is your engine red hot and smoking when you stop? Synthetic oil will survive high temps better But oil temp looks a little high. Moving the cooler into some fresh air should help if your gauge is in fact accurate.

How big is your intercooler? Is hot weather a factor? How do you test for boost leak? Do you make a rig and subject it to say 20 psi and see if it can hold it?

Here's a really jumpy video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYG0LOg0fHM

Blow off valve is stock. Do you mean you have an aftermarket BOV that does not recirculate? Look up how to get fault codes from your ecu instead of trying to guess.

Must be wearing its cloak of invisibility...where is the photo?

Go to the "wagoneers" section and you will find a number of options on the NM35 or go to the suspension braking and tyres section where there is a massive thread on wheels.

Yes do not go to Pedders - sorry apart from that have no knowledge of Perth scene. And yes you would be wasting your money getting an alignment with badly worn tyres. Wait til you have the new ones. Smaller wheels would be more comfortable and tyres probably cheaper as well. If you have some nice 19s you may be able to get a good deal from someone wanting to upsize!

What town are you in? Check to see if you have non standard injectors.

Have a search and you will find out how to generate codes by shorting out a couple of terminals on the socket under the dash.

Good unit but still fit it after the heat exchanger in the radiator to help trans warm up more quickly from cold. The average trip is only about 10km

After. Radiator warms up the ATF so send the cooler fluid back to box.

Same power output as a VQ35 (although presumably more torque) to shift a 3 ton behemoth!!

Not really ...but you don't say what car you have and how much power it is making. Its up to you to decide if its a good use of $1400 - it will definitely help on the strip and the track.