KiwiRS4T

Hi Alex - clean looking R33 - why isn't exhaust connected to vacuum?! Any problems getting RHD cars registered? Do you currently sing in a band? Videos please!

You could either paint them or get them powdercoated.

Check out the Znoelli website http://www.znoelli.co.nz/ and if you are in Auckland call round. They have a range of rotors (didn't make replacement rings for my D2s at the time) but I have used their high performance pads with success. I don't know how their prices compare these days but worth looking in to...

What he said^^^ Selling your n/a and buying a GTT is a walk in the park compared to converting your current car. Its time to say goodbye...pass your car on to a P plater and get yourself a turbo model.

Figure I have is 265 cfm but I can't remember where i got that from. (Its written in my notebook so it must be true!) OK so I looked it up: stock is 234 cfm the above number is a ported head from Lewis engines.

Hope your new mechanic knows whether its a CVT or standard auto box. Yes "sealed " units (no dipstick) still require servicing unless you can afford to buy a new car every 100,000km

Or, strangely enough, in the Stagea parts for sale section here. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/145-stagea-parts-classifieds/

I don't facebook. That car is a twin turbo V6 which is a long way away (in dollars as well as anything else) from a VQ35de. And as we all know its easy to make more power from a turbo-ed engine. The initial challenge was to get more from an n/a 3.5 engine at a low cost. Not sure where the money saving bit comes in???

Very common on Japanese brand name mufflers. When you say you had it "done" what does that mean? You had a new one installed, or your old one repaired? Did the shop run the proposed set-up by you? Restricting a 3in system down to a 2 1/2 in muffler is a total waste of money. You need to lose the restriction.

Hey I have never installed one but they are usually wired through the ignition switch so if you watch this video (or some like it) you nay be able to do it in reverse! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcOAYJKuI7g

BTW is your Stagea 2wd or AWD?

get Stagea workshop manual from Duncan . Also be prepared for a let down - stock GTR engine will not put a rocket in your C34,

Have you got an aftermarket alarm? They are sometimes incorporated.

Its not an OEM item. If you can find the make you may be able to find some instructions on-line but the best thing you can do is to remove it altogether.

https://www.ripsracing.com/catalog/Complete-Motors-40/Complete-Engine-Package-32.html

Wow for $99 you can't go wrong. Practice on a sheet of tin. If you don't like the result you can on sell it for a small $$ loss - worth the gamble I would say!

A Link ecu nowadays is over $2k An R35 MAF is about $300 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/listing-2165296325.htm?rsqid=df64a402735949a298abc4973537ce38-001

Look on You tube for videos on technique. Important requirement is a dust free environment on a still, windless day. And remember that a nice paint job will highlight rather than hide any imperfections so preparation is key.

OK so have you had it running in manual mode? You have shorted out the fuses under the battery (to disable the lock out that stops it starting in anything but P and N)?

Just to be clear have you had this car driving properly or did the engine just fire once then die? You have the right ECU? You have fuel but is it enough - have you checked the pressure? You ran out of gas is there dirt in the system? Have you taken the CAS off to see if it spins freely?

Check out Recaros from Honda Euro or Evos.

Here's my torque and power with stock block and GT3540 (you could probably use a smaller turbo for your auto):

My experience is only with Link but I assume its similar. You will need to do away with your MAF sensor and instead fit a MAP sensor. You will also need an air temp sensor measuring the air post intercooler. If you are using it for boost control you'll need to connect it to the boost solenoid. I presume you will get comprehensive instructions with the unit and you can get a lot of answers from Google or Haltech's phone or email support such as this video on how to load a base map: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UylEOQUd8E

The RB30 in my C34 had stock internals stock R33 head and a GT3540 and made 320AWKW with room for a lot more development. You can easily make 250AWKW with stock RB30 internals (just rings and bearings and rod bolts) if there is no actual damage. NB if its well worn you should fit oil restrictors and drill and tap (and plug) a couple of half inch holes high up in the sump in case you need them later for oil control if you are going to be tracking it.

How much power are you aiming for? Rips sells short blocks with stock RB30 internals and says they are good for 450KW and 7000 rpm...or stock crank, forged rods and pistons for up to 900KW and 9000 rpm.