KiwiRS4T

When you say "this" wagon was there supposed to be a photo or a link? If not what model are you interested in?

There are basically two - one with plastic cap like yours Hitachi 2371 5L 300 The other one is a Mitsubishi with metal cap 2371 02U11 which will not work. Have a look at the end of the camshaft and see if the drive appears to be damaged.

That should do it but like I say every car is different and if your engine is out of the car I would put two fittings (and plug them) in the sump in case you need them. If you look in the oil control thread you will find a table with recommendations for the size and number of oil restrictors. Oil control usually only becomes a problem if you spend a long time at maximum revs which is rarely the case on the street.

They are not special but guaranteed quality. Someone in SDU actually did the research on filters cutting them open to check how they are built and the best value for money turned out to be one used on aircraft engines (he worked in that industry). So the only reason to buy a Nismo filter is that it will do the job (and its a bit smaller than OEM if room is a factor) but of course if you can find a good one for less then that's the way to go.

People have built RB30sfor very little money - just rings and bearings. The trigger kits etc are not essential but you are still talking quite a few thousands and I have no idea what it would take to put it into a patrol. With about 2.5 tonnes to shift it would take a massive power boost to make it goes fast and then I would think it would be pretty scary to keep on the road. Do some searching - someone has done this before - don't know how this worked out.

Is this Duncan driving?

Yes my engine was first built by Joe Kyle and tuned by Glen Suckling and then Soichi when he was still at ST Hitec. I took my car to Pukekohe,, Hampton Downs, Taupo and Manfield and it was a rare day that didn't include a pissed off looking RB owner pushing his Skyline or Cefiro etc on to a trailer with a dead engine.. I don't want to hammer the point about "head drains" except to say there are many factors that can lead to oil being blown out of the engine and after a few scares I think I got to the bottom of it to the extent that I ended up with a pretty reliable engine. Every car is different to some extent and there is a theory that a well built engine with all the clearances spot on will not be affected by blow by as much as some others (that promote pressurizing the crank case and opposing the return of the oil from the head). It may be part of the puzzle that you are benefiting from a well put together engine.

No they say a lot of things but that is not one of them. Its a 200 page thread which contains the real life experience of many members as oil control is a very common problem with modified RBs. Although early in the thread (many years ago now) "head drains" were suggested as a possible solution if you read the last half or third of the thread you will find a consensus emerging. If you have so much oil pooling on top of the head that some of it finds its way down a drain at the back of the head above the floor level then you have other issues. Reasons for oil starvation include inadequate capacity, over efficient oil pumps and excess pressure in the crankcase. A bigger, finned sump is one part of the answer, as are the installation of the right number and size oil restrictors. Boring out and relieving the oil drains in the head helps the return of oil to the sump as does reducing pressure in the crankcase with an outlet hose to the catch can which, if it is vented to the turbo intake will generate some negative pressure in the crankcase. My RB30 used to spew oil like a geyser until I made these changes and even then long periods at WOT (on the track only obviously) would start to fill the catch can which is why we run a drain from the bottom of the can back to the sump so that oil can drain back when you lift off.

Nothing wrong with your oil pressure ...I would try something like 10W 40. Many filters will fit - try to buy quality ones - get Nismos if you can get them at a reasonable price.

CAS is the thing on the end of the camshaft that tells the ecu when to fire the plugs and injectors. If you are going to take it off and haven't got a timing light mark it carefully so you that if its ok you can put it back in exactly the same position. Turn it by hand to feel if the bearings are stuffed. With the key on turn it and see if it fires the plugs (maybe pull one out and look for a spark (making sure it has a good earth). If it does look inside the cas and the end of the cam shaft to see if the drive has been damaged.

Anybody who is good is busy. Anyone who is not busy.... The key is to build a relationship so a gearbox swap is probably a big first job. If you have not already, go visit the workshop (do not phone or email), show them that you mean business and have ALL the parts required and have some idea of the cash required and will be able to pay and ask them when they might have a window - given that it might tie up a hoist for a day or two (especially if you have forgotten a part).

No one has seen what they fix. Rips stopped using them years ago.

I think you'll find there are no great claims for the head drain and there is no evidence that it does anything at all. If you have the correct oil restrictors oil will not pool in the head anyway. A catch can vented to the turbo intake will create some negative pressure which will relieve pressure in the crank area and at full revs oil can accumulate in the catch can so a drain back to the sump will allow it to flow back when you lift off. If you put the fittings in the sump (above the oil level of course) which is a simple job when the motor is out then you can plug them and only use them if you find it necessary.

If you still have the engine out put a couple of fittings in the sump so that you can connect directly to a catch can (one line to the top and one to the bottom for oil to drain back) as you may have problems if you spend a lot of time at WOT - especially when drifting. get some modern injectors. A good ECU well tuned is key for reliability. BTW if you haven't already fitted the "head drain" don't bother.

Better rip out any Bosch parts in your car!

And just to be sure loctite them.

Good work. Have you considered replacing the heater core while the dash is out!

I can't see the point of using the GTR gauges. Is one of them not a torque gauge for the AWD? Just get a triple gauge plate and fit 3 gauges of your choice - boost, oil pressure and water temp. Each gauge should come with its own fittings or you just follow the instructions. You may be able to T off the oil pressure warning switch for the pressure. These are available on Ebay - Triple Gauge Holder Din Bracket 3 x 52mm or 2 1/16 or you may be able to adapt the GTR holder if you have one.

Try to establish what caused the failure. Check the head for straightness and cracks. If it can be fixed then this is a good time to consider an RB30 build. If you can find a decent RB30 block then just rings, bearings and con rod bolts should see you right. Cost will depend on what you can do yourself. If you are not keen to build the motor then a running second hand engine will be your best bet. As a matter of interest do you know what kind of ECU is in the car?

Probably but get a price from an auto electrician for a rebuild.

Yep go to a wrecker and get the missing circuit breaker. If you want to see which of the small fuses do what turn your low beams on and pull out the fuses one at a time and see what happens.

I don't know anything about your ecu (EMS stinger not a common sight around these parts) but wouldn't having both rev limiters set to 0 be a problem?

Use a multimeter or test lamp to see if you have power at the pump - then double check how it is wired and that you have a clean earth.

I did mine when the 25 broke a piston. With 350RWKW from a Neo I would not be inclined to pull it out. For street use the extra torque of the bigger block is great but as they say if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Gidday! Where do you live and have you got any pics of your car?