KiwiRS4T

I just got one off Ebay that looked close and made it fit.

Large duration cams is the 270 deg cf stock around 240. VCT would help with making car more streetable and is definitely worth doing. The sump plugs I suggested were so that if it became necessary you could run a breather to a catch can and a drain back. Polish up your stock rods as you have suggested and just get the forged pistons.

Have you got the motor out of the car on an engine dyno?

If they are indeed rock hard then when you get them recond you should be able to get them revalved so they are more streetable.

Cool looking car. Plenty of resources for what you want. What area are you?

You want help ask sensible questions and listen to the answers. Stock bov is good enough. Metal bonnet is good enough. Carbon fibre bonnets are considered a danger (do the research to find out why).

The question is what does it offer that's not already available? Downsides - price, no plug and play... have to manually wire everything.

Don't know anything about your turbo or ECU but you look to be set for north of 400KW Re oil control consider putting a couple of half inch plugs in the sump (above the oil level ) in case you need them later. Also people will suggest say 1200 injectors (do it once). Why two blow off valves? Should be great when done! And what Plynx said - head work looks like overkill but if you have already done it.... And yes forged pistons but rods will be fine if treated as per above.

One would have to ask why...but I guess the answer is why not. I have seen an E90 with GTR running gear but this is a whole other thing!

What worries me is the way he keeps putting 50L in. Does he run it empty and co-incidentally roll in to a service station? I doubt it.

I'd love to help but a bit far. Are you sure you have all the necessary gear? You have an aftermarket ecu preferably with an auxiliary wiring loom? Do you have one or two aftermarket wastegates or are you still using the stock twin turbo set up?

OK my Nismo shocks (on an awd WGNC34 Stagea so similar to GTR suspension) were: front: 56110-RSC45 ENP rear: 53210-RSC45 ENP I used Tein Springs

I had a set of Nismo labelled Bilsteins in my Stagea. Pretty sure they are just stock Bilsteins with the Nismo name added. You should have two sets of part numbers...front and rear will be different. When I get home I will have a look at the part numbers which I have recorded. You may be able to get some information from Bilstein (particularly as you are in Germany)...

300Rwkw is a very conservative figure although it will make for a rapid car. But you won't need half of that gear. Stock manifolds and valves will do it. I would say use the 3076 but you might get bored with 300kw so may as well put the 3540 on. Safe boost level depends on the care with which the engine is put together and the tune but it will be at least twice what you need to make 300kw.

Hang on when did you put in 50L? Had it run out of petrol then too? I am sure your tank should hold more than 50L Unless you are planning to run it empty again you should fill your tank to the brim and at some point before you run out fill it again and then calculate your L/100km...you may be doing worse than 16.6 L/100 Jack up each end of the car and spin the wheels to see if any are binding. Check your tyre pressures. Do you accelerate up to traffic lights and stop signs and then jump on the brakes? Is this mainly city stop start traffic?

As per your other thread on this subject ...have you pressure tested the system yet? Sure that your bleed valve is correctly plumbed?

Are you going to make it into a coupe? How about some pics!!

Tidy looking car. May well be nothing wrong with the intercooler - just clean up the front and if you are worried, pressure test it. Incremental mods tend to be a waste of time. If you want it to go faster look in the RB25 turbo upgrade thread and see how much power you want. Then open a special bank account and save up the $5k or $8k or whatever depending on what you have decided and do it in one hit.

So how do you tune a VQ37? Do you have piggy back devices, an aftermarket ECU or is there a replacement tune-able chip in your ECU?

Exciting! What turbo do you have lined up?

After checking connections I would have tested the battery before replacing anything. If you don't have a multi-meter take it to a battery shop and they will test it for nothing (and sell you a new one if you need it).

Surprised to hear they are so laid back. Tracks here (NZ) you have to wear fire resistant overalls at least and an approved helmet (that's driver and passenger) and some tracks won't allow passengers unless you have an approved roll cage...that's just for track days, not racing.

As Johnny said - no good. You need SF DIS 005 - R34 GTR will fit but not R32 R33 GTR

92 is nearer optimum temps.

Yep just buy what fits. Chances are it will overcool anyway and you should control it with a thermostat.