KiwiRS4T

Looks like the wire to the stock boost solenoid. Are you still running the stock solenoid or do you have a boost T or suchlike? Could well be pin 104.

Find the turbo. You should be able to find the actuator and see the rod going to the wastegate. The hose from the actuator is attached to a small piece of pipe coming out of the actuator.

Google some photos. S1 and S2 have different light arrangements. S1 has R33 engine S2 has R34 Neo engine or just look at the trans oil cooler...S1 just has a small loop of pipe S2 has a cooler of about 300 x 300mm

Someone had this question a little while ago and I posted up a listing for some brakes off another Nissan model that should fit...but can't find the post. Found this after a minute's googling though (don't know if its still up to date): https://www.sinergymotorsports.com.au/cart/products-page/brakes-brake-rotors-rear-nissan-stagea-c34/

Check the contacts on the AFM plug and clean the AFM element. If that doesn't fix it try to borrow a known good AFM to try.

Why so rude? You are the one who brought up the oil pan. If you can't understand my answer then I'll spell it out: Yes a girdle would be a good idea. But since you have already decided that you don't need one because 2wd I don't know why you asked the question.

The oil pan is much stronger in an awd than the 2wd. If you don't need girdle for 1200hp then who does? Is your next question do you need to grout fill the block?

There may well be but so long as you can pull the car up with what you have there is no urgency to change it.

Not sure why you think 2wd or 4wd will make any difference. Rips racing makes a girdle and I think Spool have a copy.

Deatschworks 550 - but if I were doing it today I would get Xspurt 1550s (not ID or Bosch CNG injectors). I believe you can get modern injectors to fit on the stock rail but I am not sure exactly which ones.

I was making 320AWKW with the stock FPR so no need to change it unless you run into problems.

Please do not start a new thread every time you post. Keep them in one place.

It depends. there are plug in piggy backs into which you put your loom plug in one end and there is a plug that goes into your ecu. In that case you just unplug it and put the loom plug into the stock ecu as per standard. But these are not always available and some people painstakingly solder each wire one by one so in that case you are going to have to remove them one by one and re-solder the original connections.

Scroll down to S1 rb25det awd ecu and the link I put there still works

Looks good! Extra height of the RB30 shouldn't be a problem - my Strut brace cleared everything including the highmount setup...

Try this Maltech 125 ANDERSONS RD DRYSDALE VIC 3222 03 5253 1931

Is there a reason why you don't want to go manual? My box packed up with just the modified turbo so I put a manual box in before I got the RB30. To answer your questions you will have to spend thousands to get your box to take significantly more than stock power. There is someone on this site that has such a box for sale but I forget who he is and don't know how much he wants for it. The go to guy was Mike at MV Automatics in Adelaide [email protected] who makes a shift kit he will send to you but I think that just gives you a crisper change and don't think it adds to the ability of the box to take big power. You could give him a ring any way. Have you tried the for sale or parts wanted section? I think people just throw away their autos when they go manual. There are a couple of people on this site right now doing manual conversions.

Do check with Hutchwilco and ask where he got his chain. BTW did you try Nissan?

Or https://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Chain-Kit-Fits-Nissan-Skyline-V35-250GT-2-5L-VQ25DD-2001-2006/172958796851?hash=item284525cc33:g:-YEAAOSwRbtZ-W3T

Contact hutchwilco on this site as he has just done a timing chain.. (Sam - from Christchurch)

Life is simple when you 're a simpleton. Ignorance is bliss. Be happy.

OK from the DIY in the Stagea section and referring to the plugs under the battery box: Go back to the front of car with the four plugs. The two pin grey plug is your inhibitor switch, put a loop between those (cut plug off auto trans loom). The brown plug is for the reverse lights (well two pins of it anyway), hook those

Yes its a long read but but you can get away with reading just the last third. In it many possibilities are explored and you will find that pretty much a consensus emerges. And if people are not familiar with the concepts then another, but redundant, thread of equal size could be created with people repeating points of view that have already been thoroughly canvassed.

If your catch can is just for show that's one thing but if you have a real oil control problem such as is normally found after a sustained period at WOT which usually happens only on the track (or the dyno) then you need a better set up... preferably one that includes a breather from the crankcase (upper sump). In this case plumbing it into the intake will help to reduce crankcase pressure. A properly baffled sufficiently large catch can should catch the oil mist produced and if it doesn't then another air/oil separator in the line will. There is a very thorough discussion of this subject in the oil control thread (just read the last half - its a giant thread).

Holsets are quite popular here in NZ for a good bang for buck budget build but you probably should read the threads below about the likes of Borg Warner and Precision...