KiwiRS4T

Not a twin scroll but....

Nothing.

If they won't dyno it with the exhaust dropped do it yourself at home.

You will get the how to on the Link forum http://forums.linkecu.com/

One would expect the sensors to be different as the diff ratios are likely to be different. But your car will still run with the wrong speed sensor.

Perfect

Have you got a chart showing boost?

What did the tuner say ? How big is the cat? How big is the exhaust at its narrowest (typically at he rear muffler)?

I presume you mean OV301 or OV310 both of which are different (slightly) from the OV300 The OV300 is by far the most common so maybe you can find another. Or have you opened up your original ecu and tried to dry it out? Otherwise you will have to compare your new ecu with the original pinout and use a meter etc to work out the differences. Below pinout appears to be for a 2wd auto but may help you. Pinouts WGC34_Series_1_-_STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_ translated.xls

This. Traction control with 2wd no traction control with 4wd. No telling what car they came out of but ecu number (if original) would tell the story.

Traction control. Both could be R34 engines. What is the number on the ECU of the RH engine?

You will get more power if you run e85 and tune accordingly...

B------r, I thought you had bought the red M35?

No. Here's a random diagram which may or may not not help. If you approach Duncan (look in the wagoneers section) I think he has hosted the complete Stagea Manual somewhere that you can download it from.

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Cool - more info and pics please!

Did you refill with mineral oil? Have you repaired/replaced the faulty injector? As per Duncan's suggestion try running in procedure, Stick it in third, accelerate briskly (not with full boost if turbo) to about 6000 and then lift off completely til revs drop to about 2000 and repeat for about half an hour. Do not be alarmed if you get a puff of blue smoke when you floor it as oil will be sucked past the non sealing rings on the overrun (so check your oil level regularly). Keep an eye on your temps and (if you have a gauge) oil pressure. Then repeat the compression test. Will not work with synthetic oil!!

1. Try the for sale section 2 Try advertising in the parts wanted section 3 Ring around the wreckers

Well it depends on how fast you are going. At low speeds the change in revs will be minor. You need to be more precise. When you say revs stay "pretty much exactly the same" are they in fact exactly the same or is there a small drop? Try it at a higher speed (in an appropriate setting) and then also change down quickly and see if the revs rise.

This is what a GT3540 looks like (.83) and that 's on an RB30. If you want to improve on that you will need a more modern set up.

Rubbish! They are the same box. Same as GTR box.

Forged engine - did the seller take the big turbo off and return it to stock? Good project but remember if you are too successful you will be needing a manual box!

So what was the KW and max revs?

I don't believe the R33 has a limp mode as such so you just have a fault to find. If its the same with the new box then it could be in the wiring or the TCU. Here is a fault finding plan I found somewhere else (if it doesn't work you may have to find a workshop with a scan tool): OK, have noticed a few people having trouble with their automatic transmissions & some asking how to get codes out using self-diagnostics. Nobody really seemed too sure so I thought Id create a thread about it & if people can reply, confirming that this works (its been a while...) maybe it will get sticky'd as its useful info for anyone with an auto... OK, to get into auto-trans self-diagnostics mode, do as follows: *Have car at operating temp, in P with O/D on *Start engine, power light goes out in 2 secs *Turn ignition off *Move to D, O/D off *Wait 2 secs, turn ignition on *Wait 2 secs, move selector to 2 *O/D on *Move selector to 1 *O/D off *Press accelerator fully to floor & fully release Codes are now flashed using power or snow/power buttons (dependant on model) Sequence starts with 1 long flash. If all is OK this will be followed by 10 short flashes. Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes eg. 1 long flash, 6 short flashes, 1 long flash, 3 short flashes is code 7 Code descriptions are as follows: #1- Revolution sensor shorted or disconnected #2- Speed sensor shorted or disconnected #3- Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected #4- Shift-solenoid A shorted or disconnected #5- Shift-solenoid B shorted or disconnected #6- Overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconnected #7- Lock-up solenoid shorted or disconnected #8- Fluid temperature sensor disconnected or control unit power source damaged #9- Engine-revolution sensor shorted or disconnected #10- Line-pressure solenoid shorted or disconnected Best of luck to anyone suffering problems & as I said please confirm if this worked for you

The Stagea front (and rear) diffs are 4.111 I believe your R34 DE is 4.363 so you will need to (preferably) get a 4.1 rear end for your car or use your front diff in the stagea sump.