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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. In that case it will fit. There are at least 3 tutorials on this site - best way to find them is to Google although I know there is one in the Stagea Section which also has a useful shopping list of things you will need (much the same as for your car) and one in the general DIY section .
  2. No it won't. Let us know how it goes (dyno after the lock down ends)!
  3. I had put a 50mm Synapse W/G on my RB30 with a GT3540 on a Sinco manifold only because I got it cheap (I would have preferred the 40mm one) and it held 22 psi controlled by my Link. Who is your tuner? If he is reputable tuner with a good track record why would you not take his advice?
  4. I agree with you. Its overkill. I would have thought 40mm would be better.
  5. Did it come with a diff and did you check the ratio (although I presume you can bolt an R34 diff on to an R33)?
  6. Yes. Do it. Only your idle and cruise will be affected and its full throttle that you want to check. And the odds are your O2 sensor has never been changed anyway.
  7. If all else fails get some gasket paper and make one.
  8. Yes just noticed that and amended my post. The answer to the above is I don't know!
  9. [Sorry just realised you have an M35. Try and find a manual for it but this is the procedure for a WGCN34] [Do not remove that relay]?. This is the approved procedure outlined in the WGNC34 manual: Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug). In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to a loom with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket. Disconnect it. Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode. You need to do this every time you start the car. To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go. And if you plan to do this a lot you can put a switch in somewhere.
  10. You will not get power from your n/a engine. From the photo it looks like a mint 4 door car and it will most retain its value in stock form.
  11. Try to download an engine workshop manual - it gives all the specifications for rebuilding.
  12. You can't guess at timing - you need to set it at the CAS before you start tuning. From the R33 workshop manual:
  13. Did new bushes help? Are brakes binding? Had a wheel alignment? Winding castor up to near 7 degrees will encourage straight ahead travel although you will have to redo toe in and check camber.
  14. ECU is in the LHS kick panel but you don't need to access it - disconnect the sensor at the sensor: follow the top hose to the block and you will find two sensors - just pull the plug off the one with two wires.
  15. Stock ecu should be able to handle up to 12 psi but no telling what it has been tuned for. Check the timing and the fuel pressure and then start looking for boost leaks etc etc.
  16. Either send your turbo to Steve Murch or buy a neo one and send that to him.
  17. Do you have a strong battery with good connections? Another possibility is the temp sensor for the ecu. It is the one with two terminals ..the one with a single terminal is for your dash gauge. Unplug the ecu terminal and if the car starts better then that one needs to be replaced.
  18. Well it will work and blow a little more air but it won't be new. Depending on where you are I would suggest sending your turbo to Tao at Hypergear for rebuilding.
  19. Keep your hair on mate! Clearly I have too much time on my hands and I have had a look at the workshop manual (you should search on-line and download one for yourself) regarding fuel pressure. Although people commonly use a number between 36 and 44psi as a starting point the manual says: at idle 35.5psi (or with vacuum line removed 42.3 psi) and this number should rise lb for lb with boost. The workshop manual says timing should be 15 degrees (it doesn't say anything about autos being different). On many RBs there is a sticker under the bonnet with this information - although it may have peeled off or been painted over. As your car is stock my guess is that you do not have a tunable ecu but that some one has put a "miracle chip" ("buy this chip and your car will outdrag corvettes" kind of thing in the stock ecu. In your first post you say that you suspect that your engine is running lean and almost everyone else has agreed that this is very likely. Since you don't have access to a wideband you should at least check the fuel pressure and you say you have a suitable gauge...so do it!
  20. Must be doing something wrong...massive download and all I got was a picture of a quaver and a few seconds of music!
  21. So are you back on two feet?
  22. Watch the boost gauge as you accelerate for a clue as to whether its going into R&R. Although the white plugs make me think you might have a fuel problem e.g. pump on the way out. As above check your vacuum lines going to the actuator. Is your boost solenoid still connected or has it been by-passed? Try connecting the vacuum line directly from its source to the actuator.
  23. Hi Ivan The correct answer is to turbo but the real question is do you want the power? There is not much to be gained from a N/A engine without spending serious money but if it meets your needs now you could just make sure you have some decent brakes, tyres and suspension.
  24. Have you actually done anything but wring your hands? Nipple on compressor housing should be fine but lots of other things for you to check out.
  25. So did you jump out and check that your terminals were on tight? That your alternator belt was still there? The little green light still showing in your battery? Put a multimeter across the terminals?
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