KiwiRS4T

CAS looks pretty weather beaten...maybe check the bearings? And of course clean the IACV.

Gidday! Looks like the grill from an N/A car and a pretty non-standard radiator. Any other mods?

After the first coat you give it a sand and hollows etc will show up for you to fill. Top coat is the last coat. Laquer is for show cars...shows up every deficiency in the metal. Requires many coats. Enamel is easier and more forgiving.

For a list of things to do see my above post or read the last half or so of the this thread.

Where is the discrepancy apart from drilling out the oil returns? I didn't drill out the returns but I did fit oil restrictors, a sump baffle, baffles in the cam covers and a couple of 20mm sump breathers one to the top of the (first) catch can and one to the bottom to allow oil to return to the sump. I had my engine out twice before I came to this point with problems and the foregoing fixed it for good.

Evo = daily R32 =Hobby

All that stuff is in this site. Have a look at the FAQ just above your post. Google each item and have a read - you will learn a lot. If you get stuck come back and ask.

Yes to connect catch can to sump no to "head drain". Read the last half or so of the oil control thread to see exactly what to do and why.

For a budget RB30 with 300kw try to get a RB25 preferably Neo head with the manifolds and use the stock manifolds...maybe weld on a mount for a wastegate and make sure you hook up the VCT.

Don't ask here ring the authorities and find out the requirements. In NZ it would cost quite a bit to re-comply and register a vehicle and you need to formally establish ownership (with a declaration witnessed by a JP).

Changing the cam will do stuff all. Turbo will make it go faster but all advice will be get an RB25 engine (or an LS)

I guess you mean VH 41 etc where you put VK41, 45. I read up about the differences a few years ago and can't remember the details but there was some reason why the VH41 engine was a better starting point even if you increased the capacity. There seem to be some parts such as forged pistons etc for sale in the US.

Please try it and report back (although success may be hard to measure!). The purpose of the sump breathers going to catch can(s) and eventually the turbo intake is to generate negative pressure in the crank case (or at least to reduce the positive pressure) to facilitate oil return.

I wouldn't put a $38 coil in my car...especially not in a boosted car. You don't know that its working perfectly you only know that it appears to work. Also I would tend to buy 6 coils as the others are probably on the way out too.

They work the same way that water thermostats do - i.e. they do not limit maximum temps they are designed to regulate minimum temps so that the engine is not operating below its efficiency temperature. Some are set at 70/ 80 deg C some are adjustable.

Valve stem seal is the least of your worries at this point...

Only done it on a C34 but the principle is the same: find the line that goes to the w/g actuator and cut it to install boost tap. If there is a stock solenoid pull the hoses off it. You just want a hose going from boost source to actuator with a boost tap installed the right way round and with a bleed going to where-ever the bleed used to go. And of course you need a boost gauge so you know what you are doing.

Depends what you mean by "mess with". It will alter it slightly.

Just for reference i used a stock RB26 pump in my RB30 and always had adequate oil pressure even on hot track days. Apparently there was a time when dodgy knock offs were sold but the OEM item seems pretty good (you need to locktite the screws) for many users.

Valves aren't much use without stems.

I don't have a datascan but I see that there are optional settings for speed (Km/hr or miles per hour) . Is there also an "off" option? Have you tried toggling between km and miles?

The black box could be to do with a toll collection system. You can calculate what wheels will fit on your car by checking the offset on your current wheels and working from there.

I don't know the answer but double check the ABS rings.

I see only one boost line which barely gets off the ground. What is the boost gauge in the car saying? the original 300+kw sounds right for the turbo. Have you checked for boost leaks?

Its not to do with horsepower. Its a number of factors including that some people put in super high powered oil pumps that may actually empty the sump (or at least leave the pickup exposed) under certain conditions. In particular a long period at WOT which you will not likely encounter on the road but more likely on a long straight or sweeper (especially the front straight at Hampton Downs (in NZ) which is uphill so foot flat all the way). I did not drill out my oil drains but did fit restrictors and a couple of vents in the sump because pressure can build up which impedes the flow of returning oil. I also think that souped up RB30s (I had one) are also more prone to this problem for some reason. But with the baffles, oil restrictors and sump vents running through two catch cans (and no rear "drain" or "vent" )I did solve my problems. BTW if I had anywhere near 1000hp I would seriously consider a dry sump set up