KiwiRS4T

Have a look at the Syline strut brace fitted to this Stagea: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-153663636.htm No idea how its bolted on.

After extensive "research" I concluded that synthetic was the way to go and Amsoil was top of the pops but when I finally tracked some down it was going to cost $200 an oil change so i flagged that and am using Castrol Edge 5W- 30. No problems so far and am planning to change the filter every 10000 and keep the oil for 50,000 but i will keep an eye on it.

Thats a really good price compared to this one http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=128358364 at nearly $18k without leather (but with 5 spd manual). A good series I is now around $7k - $8k and series II $11 to $15k but RS260 are still around $25k in NZ. I guess that's the effect of premium (98ron) at $1.25 a litre

Don't know where you're up to but.. Have you got English language instructions?* Are you connecting at the ECU (in passengers' kick panel) Have you got a pinout diagram? (the one in the DIY section headed R34 pinout may be your one) I haven't installed a SAFC so someone else may give you more help if needed. *I have some instructions if you haven't got any. If you want them ,email me and I'll send them as an attachment (bobvanruyssevelt@yahoo.com) I'm about to install my SITC which I guess you'll need next!

How much do you want to pay? Here's one for NZ$300 (plus postage I guess) http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-159348844.htm

Have you got an auto? If so have a read through the threads for raesons why you won't want a power fc If you still want one here is one for NZ$2300 (Soichi is a top Japanese tuner working in Auckland) there are other, cheaper ones on Trade Me. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-159578655.htm

I take it this one is sold. I would be keen to get hold of one - quite prepared to pay postage tp NZ rather than make my own.

There is an 18 page thread in the DIY section (max power from RB25DET) where someone went through this exercise. The answer is the sky's the limit as to what you can acheive on the dyno but you are already above what can normally be sustained for any length of time. However as you appear to have the resources to find out for yourself...good on you.

I see these devices are very popular with Toyota and Subaru owners but does the Stagea RB25DET actually have a fuel cut? I am not an expert on RBs but my mechanic who is, puts great emphasis on getting an adequate fuel supply before increasing boost or radically advancing timing since running too lean can result in holes in pistons. That is why as well as a new fuel pump i have a fuel pressure regulator. I think if you can't measure your air/fuel ratios you shouldn't fit a device that will fool your ECU into thinking that you have more fuel than you really have. I don't know who told you that you needed an FCD but I suggest you get a second opinion from a good mechanic with lots of RB experience. In other words don't take my word for it but check with someone who really knows before you run the risk of blowing your engine. regards Bob

Safety: Stageas got 6 stars out of 6 in the JNCAP crash tests. All Stageas have ABS braking, pre-tensioning seat belts and two front airbags. Most have the superior Atessa four wheel drive system and some (?) series 2 have more air bags. Have a read through the forum and 2 patterns will emerge - most people wish they had bought a manual and if you have a need for speed (like most Stagea owners) and the money go straight for the RS260 (Autech if you can find one). Otherwise the attraction of the Stagea is the RB motor which enables you to go from the stock 240bhp to 300- 400 for a modest investment or if you have the big bucks the sky's the limit ...there are two or three in NZ with 600bhp or more and no doubt even more in Aus. Good luck

You need to upgrade the fuel pump and get a fuel pressure regulator but no need for injector upgrade with the stock turbo. If you still have the stock ECU then it controls the inlet cam and adjustable cam gear will not give a noticeable improvement so exhaust cam gear only.

All body kits are rare. Aeros more so than Dayz for example but being in NZ I don't really know what is availble in your neck of the woods. Apexi PFC is generally considered incompatible with autos so unless you are lucky enough to have a manual then you are looking at piggy back units to control boost (e.g. IEBC) mixture (SAFC or DFA) and timing e.g. SITC Under the DIY heading (furher up the list in this forum) you will find good reading in the Jaycar thread and in the "FYI Piggybacks"for a start. There are guys that have fitted the Apexi PFC and they can give you more advice but I think you have to carefully match the PFC to your car's ECU of which the Stagea has several variants. Good luck

HKS Cam gear quoted at $365. Does anyone have experience of Chinese aluminium version at less than half the price? It seems to me that it is not a highly stressed component although a failure could be catastrophic.

I am keen to get one of these and would pay postage to Auckland NZ if someone has one to spare. Does the scoop deliver air directly into the standard airbox? I am planning to ditch my pod and put the standard box in place. [...to make it quieter and to supply cooler air - I understand that with the proper (pipercross?) filter the amount of air supplied will not be less than with the pod - can anyone confirm?] Can anyone using the pipercross filter confirm that this is a washable type and that it fits in the standard filter housing? Thanks

My Attessa plays up a bit from cold (its engaged when I haven't selected it but it comes right when the car has warmed up) so I thought i would change the fluid. I went to the Nissan dealer and asked if they had a special fluid for the Atessa or could I use ATF (because I got a 20L Fuchs Titan ATF 4000 semi-synthetic to change mtygearbox oil) but they said no its a special Nissan fluid the same as the nissan power steering fluid. I don't necessarily believe them so I will go to another Nissan Dealer and ask them the same question. Otherwise I will just bleed the system. Has anyone done this and noticed any difference?

If you click on http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja...html&st=880 and scroll down to post 884 you will see a picture of a solenoid in the bottom right hand corner. If the wiring shows signs of the solenoid having been shorted out then it could be stuffed in which case it will stay closed but this is not likely to give you the symptoms you are getting. (its worth doing this mod anyway). Coils could have been affected by the steamcleaning on import but change the plugs first as coils are expensive - perhaps see if you can borrow a set to check.

just quoting from one of S threads: The auto in a Stagea is made by Jatco, and is basically the same as Z32 and R33GTST (+ a 4wd transfer case bolted on the side) and several other larger 6 cylinder Nissans, 4wd's, utes, trucks etc. So parts and knowledge are not hard to find.

No The "ten minute no cost boost increase to 0.5bar (actually it tells you how to get more boost if you want it)" would be easier as it just invlolves rerouting a few hoses and moving (and/or modifying a restrictor). It also involves completely bypassing the solenoid which is better than shorting it out. [bTW you are lucky to have a manual.. if you are planning a performance upgrade in the future sell your Greddy profec and get an Apexi PFC] I have heard two schools of thought on the maximum boost you should run with the stock ceramic turbo - some say 10LB and some 12LB. You decide - its your car... but without any mods maybe 10 would be safer. I have a full exhaust and have upgraded the side mount intercooler to a Trust unit with 80% more flow and use 12lb as my maximum and hope to do so for some time as I can't afford to get my turbo rebuilt as a high flow ball bearing unit yet. Although I used to be a mechanic I knew nothing about the RBs and have learned heaps from reading this website. On a dark and stormy night read through the Jaycar thread but lots of the others are interesting and informative as well. Apart from the exhaust all my other mods are planned like you to be discreet so as not to attract the law. That is why I hope my Trust sidemount will prove adequate for the 160to 200RWK that I am aiming for. I have also upgraded the fuel pump, installed a fuel pressure regulator and am building the Jaycar boost controller and DAFC. I have a SITC to go in and then to the dyno for a tune. I have also spent many $$$ on brakes and suspension but that's another story. Cars must be cheaper in NZ. My 1997 RS4T (no manual tho) cost $7000 and by the time I am finished I will have spent about $15000 to have a car that goes quite fast, handles quite well for an 1800kg wagon and stops well. Good luck

Try searching the Jaycar thread for the "10 minute no cost extra boost" til you can do some real mods: . This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses. Disconnect the two vacuum hoses from the solenoid. Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture). The remaining connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting). Make sure to put the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar. (See photo) There are photos of the plumbing required (but don't exceed 12psi boost regularly if you have the standard ceramic turbo).

Go into Supercheap and see if the 678 is bigger than yours. If not I read in a US car magazine a suggestion to go to the scrap merchant and get a huge heat exchanger out of an aircond unit basically for the price of the scrap value. Then you have to make up your own mounts and buy some hoses.

Also from Supercheap Auto for NZ$129

Yes, thanks...read the thread. My ECU is 23740 OV300 so I will assume that is as per the manual and as per the R34 pinout for s2 Stageas. Will cut wires one at a time and test. Would be good if you didn't have to make like a detective and people could post up the three pinouts that go with the three series1 ECUs under the thread for series 2 ECU pinouts.

Didn't have any luck with the "secret squirrel trick" search. Can anyone confirm that the ECU pinout in the DIY section under series 2 pinouts is the one for my 1997 series 1 RS4T? (confusingly the engine is referred to a series 2 RB engine but that's another story). I understand that the Series II stagea has the R34 ECU but that the series I has a number of different ECUs. But do they all have the same pinout arrangement? I have followed a number of trails all over this site without a definitive answer. If anyone can supply a pinout diagram that they have used for their Series I stagea and know to be correct that would be great.