KiwiRS4T

If you leave those fuses out in a Stagea you'll end up with a stuffed transmission (do some readind in this forum). BTW Jonny 200 pounds is AU$421 or NZ $516!

Your standard afm is not the limitation. If you are planning to raise boost to 10psi as the only mod then you should get your actual air/fuel ratio checked with a meter (e.g. on a dyno) because you could end up blowing a piston. Preferably get a bigger exhaust rather than a new afm ($200 for a second hand Z32) and check your fuel pressure.

Probably not a good idea to vent to atmosphere ... try plumbing it back into the intake pipe or else get rid of the boost tap and just follow the "ten minute no costguide to 0.5 bar" at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20 (post 40) and play with the size of the restrictor til you get the boost you want or the exhaust can handle. (the standard bov is plumbed in - you don't normally hear it.)

When an auto manufacturer receives wheels from their wheel supplier, and tires from their tire supplier, they perform what is referred to as "match mounting." Both the wheels and tires are put on balancing machines- SEPARATELY. Both will be very slightly "out of balance" in some way, even if it's a miniscule defect. The "high point" in balance of the TIRE is marked near the bead with a small dot of water-soluble paint. Then, the "low point" in balance of the WHEEL is marked with - you guessed it- a small dot. In our case, a blue one. Matching the HIGH point of the tire's defect with the LOW point of the wheel's defect can work to cancel out both, providing a more balanced wheel and tire combination. Confusingly it seems not all wheel and tyre manufacturers use the same conventions. For after market tyres e.g. Falken say either match the yellow dot on the tyre with the valve or match the red dot on the tyre with the mark on the wheel (if any)

Have a look in the Stagea parts for sale section - someone is looking to bring some stuff in from Japan.

I got the Bilsteins and some Tein springs. (Despite repeated requests i have not been able to find out exactly which so I will have to make the trek over to ask directly) but in my opinion the Teins are too hard. Others who have lowered with Bilsteins and different springs have found it necesary to shave a bit off the bump stops. mine do not appear ever to have hit the bump stops so the Teins in my car are too hard. However the overall package (including sway bars etc) has vastly improved the handling if not the ride so i will live with it but look at another spring when (if ever) I get my RS260.

Well done. See also: http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=57259

All OK except the camber F&R You can't get enough adjustment so you have to get the adjustable bushes - some one was selling a kit on this forum (cant remember if it was front or rear).

If you scroll up to the DIY section you will find tutorials on most of the things you need to do for a 100k service including how to change the cam belt. You don't have to do everything at once - you could spread it over a couple of weekends if necessary. NB SK's assertion that the waterpump is good for 200,000km so if it looks OK you could leave that (but if you're paying someone for the service its probably just as well to get the pump done at the same time as the cam belt). There are good reasons why people don't do these things themselves (no time, no tools, no space) but the golden rule with workshops is: get a quote and ask them what is included in the price and if necessary get some more quotes. The middle road is do the bits you want to yourself and pay someone to do the rest. p.s PM me for a highly recommended reasonably priced RB workshop (in Auckland I'm afraid).

I think its in the Whiteline gruop buy thread but it goes like this: Front: Caster Left: as much as possible (5 deg or more Caster Right: whatever you got on the right less 1/4 degree (to allow for road camber) Camber L&R 1 deg negative Toe in L&R zero Rear: Camber L&R neg 0.5 deg Toe in L&R minus 2mm

How much do you want to pay for one? I have one in the garage that i don't use... I could investigate the price of postage to Sydney - probably cost you about $50 incl postage but I'll let you know for sure this afternoon.

Not in its original form. I saw a while ago that the price of the Bilsteins had gone up ( I guess they would do in three years) but I think you can still get a good package deal if you contact Gary and tell him what you want. Try a PM to Sydney Kid (although he gets 100s of messages) or try his business addresses one or two posts up or the Sydney phone book - I believe he makes the Whiteline stuff under the Selby brand or something like that.

Check level in brake fluid reservoir?

For you guys with touch screens: http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=57259

I think bar is the apprporiate measurement. I have just changed my psi boost gauge for one that reads in bar 100kpa=1 bar (=14.5psi) and I plan to run my Series I at 0.8bar until I get a new turbo.

Bless you if you are still around. Got a bunch of blocks on my controller and remembered reading something in the 46 pages of this thread and found your post. On my kit they had the same part number but in smaller printing the different numbers for IC1 and IC2Now ready to install!!

I don't want to appear overly defensive but the 258 page booklet they do is a translation of the Nissan Stagea handbook, which like all such handbooks is merely an introduction to the operation of the cars and lacks the technical detail of a workshop manual...or are you critical of the standard of translation or printing carried out by JPNZ?

yep happened to me too when someone smashed my window to get my radar detector. Nissan call them visors or something similar - around $300 or try some of the guys wrecking cars on this section.

I think the Jaycar boost controller has qualities the more expensive ones lack (if you can be botherered to build one although i have heard you can buy them ready assembled).1. It can totally eliminate any boost going to the actuator until you want it to. 2. Boost is determined by the duty cycle of the injectors and so independent of rpm and also reaction is quicker than measuring boost and then reacting to that. If you have the time read the relevant bits of the "Jaycar"thread in the DIY section of the Stagea section. I am going to fit mine (and my DAFA and SITC) tomorrow so will have some real experience. A number of Stagea owners (including SK) have fitted them and I haven't heard any negative feedback.

Also the location of the sensor seems less than ideal. Do they not recommend you put it closer to the manifold (did you replace your oe O2 sensor with the wideband or leave it in place?) Your kit looks a good price though (is that US$?)

The auto ecu normally cuts back the timing during gear changes so it shouldn't be that causing the knock. The SITC should be fine for your purpose. Has it been wired correctly? (Full instructions here with my apologies if you already know all this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ap...imi-t80642.html Should be easy to check at idle if you advance the Sitc 10deg that should show up with a timing light. (A bit harder under power). See if you can swap out the SITC with a known good one (seeing that I assume yours is second hand since they are no longer available new to my knowledge).

Yes a first class tune on a dyno beats a mail order "chip" which may or may not suit your car. People are charging $250 to $1000 plus for a dynotune. But do you have plans to sell just the hardware and software with instructions? I would be interested in making my ECU tuneable but what exactly can be altered after your modification? Timing across the range? A/F ratios across the range? You mentioned the boost control solenoid -( what would determine its settings?) What else?. I would be interested in a modified ECU that could be tuned by me or my local dyno shop (not being in Aus).

I should think so as they have already done the owners handbook (around 250 pages) which cost me about $35

I don't know about that but... standard ECU is not much good once you start modifying the engine. The point of a PFC is that you can change timing, Air/fuel ratios etc - untuned its just a waste of $$$ ( and if you've bought it second hand it could have a tune suited to a set-up which is quite different from what you have and could in fact be worse than your fact ecu).

The LC1 kit (around $2-300) consists of a wideband O2 sensor (which can be fitted in place of your standard one) and a cable which can connect to your laptop (or to an LM1 or LM2 datalogger). Check the www.innovatemotorsports.com site. There is an Australian made kit from Tech Edge (do a search on this site for SK's account of building and using one).